Water won't hold chlorine

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T

Toni.G

0
May 23, 2017
11
Sahuarita, AZ
First time pool owner in Arizona. I have been dealing with this issue for about 3 weeks. Water is crystal clear but won't hold chlorine. I just received my TF-100 kit in the mail last night so I tested today. Here are the results(hopefully I did this right):
PH 7.2
TA 120
FC 0
TC ?
CYA 100+
Hardness 800 (about 35 drops to get to blue)
pool 6-1.JPG pool 6-1a.JPG

I do not have any granular shock and I no longer use the pucks. From what I've read it sounds like I need to empty half of pool(?).
Not sure what to do next....or....what to purchase next (liquid chlorine or granular). I don't see any algae.
Help please.
 
Glad you got your kit. You are on your way to pool store freedom. First step is do a drain. I would try and go as low as you can, because your CYA may be a lot higher than 100. While you drain, try your best to keep the exposed plaster wet. It's hot here right now and you don't want damage to plaster while you drain.

You may want to perform a diluted CYA test to see how much above 100 your CYA.
 
Sorry, but a drain is the fastest most cost-effective way to get things started down the right path. Unless you're on a well, which brings a whole new set of problems.

Drain about half the pool. If you can isolate the drain in the bottom and use the waste setting on the filter, you can use your pool pump and empty it in a few hours. Otherwise you need to rent a big pump or buy a submersible.

While it's low, it will be easy to get in and remove the pool light and clean things out. You might have this going on

IMG_20130712_142332_093_zps8d27e037.jpg


After you refill, let the water mix and retest everything. Then get the pH right and it's jugs away. If the water is clear right now and half of it is new, it shouldn't take but a few days to pass the SLAM Process finish criteria
 
- - - Updated - - -

Here are some pics of my pool pump and filter. I don't see any settings on the filter. There are no levers to adjust and there are 2 areas that can be considered drains.....one is a wide pvc pipe and the other is a metal spout with a red knob. If I use a sump pump to drain I won't need to worry about all of this, but I am curious to know why these spouts are there. Can you explain all of this please?.....Thanks, Toni
pool filter1.jpgpool pump1.jpg
 
You have a cartridge filter. So there will not be a 'waste' or 'backflush' valve on that type of filter. I would need a picture of the items you state to help out on what they are on that brand filter.

Easiest thing to use is a sump pump.

Be aware to keep your plaster wet during the drain and fill. Letting plaster dry out in the direct sunlight in AZ may lead to cracking. Try to do most of this process at night.

Take care.

There are the pictures!

The bottom one with red valve is a drain. The other is a spigot were you can hook up a hose and with the pump running get some of the water to go drain or water the lawn or etc.
 
when you say CYA 100 + you mean you CANNOT see the black dot after 100 correct?

Mentioning you can't hold FC usually means there is zero cya to protect it from sun light.

Just asking, as a member recently thought she had high cya when in fact she could
see the dot with the vial all the way full, which actually meant zero cya.
 
Thanks for all your help! I went ahead a did a diluted CYA test and it came out to about 130. The first time I tested the CYA I couldn't see the black dot when the liquid in the tube was about half way between bottom and the 100 mark (not a lot of liquid).
 
A 50% change out of water or a Reverse Osmosis is warranted. Again - be cognizant of your plaster and the harsh direct sun in the desert. Do your best to keep the plaster wet if in the sunlight.

Take care.
 

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With a CYA of 130, you will need to drain your pool about 62% to get to ideal range of 50. Obviously it's hard to measure exactly, but do the best you can to get it down. Even if you lower it to 60 or 70, it will be manageable.

Remember to keep your pool plaster wet while you drain. It was recommended to do this at night, and couldn't agree more. If you can start your drain late afternoon and do it through the night that would be ideal.
 
I would drain enough to get the CYA to about 60. I personally run my CYA at 70 to combat FC loss from the intense sun out here in AZ

Edit: After thinking about it some, you would be better off getting you CYA to 30 maybe 40 so you can preform a SLAM. Then you will not have to use as much bleach while doing the SLAM. (It should be a short slam from the looks of your pool) Then you can raise the CYA up to 60 or so after the SLAM is complete.
 
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