Water gurgling when flowing thru heater & suction side leak?

[Segami]

Hi All,
We have a new build and have some noise / annoyances with some of the equipment. Wondering if anyone can shed some light. For the heater, whenever the heater has water flowing thru it, there is some gurgling noise. If I throw the bypass, noise goes away. Not sure if we can attach videos to forum (doesn’t seem like it), so I’ll try this iCloud link (tried to edit in some youtube links).

https://youtube.com/shorts/HYyxvboPRuM?feature=share

We also seem to have a very minor suction side leak as we have a constant bit of air in the pump. The installer had found the 3 way valve had a small crack in one of the screw holes and tried to epoxy it. Seems to still be leaking though. Should I try to get a full replacement or try more epoxy? And just to check, after the pump starts up and primes, all of the air should clear out of the pump after a minute or two, right?

https://youtube.com/shorts/JZoibp74sLM?feature=share

I’ll also attach just some basic pictures of our plumbing layout. Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[ajw22]

Load any videos to YouTube and post a link to it here.

 

[Segami]

Thanks for the idea - first time uploading to youtube, so hopefully it worked.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi All,
We have a new build and have some noise / annoyances with some of the equipment. Wondering if anyone can shed some light. For the heater, whenever the heater has water flowing thru it, there is some gurgling noise. If I throw the bypass, noise goes away. Not sure if we can attach videos to forum (doesn’t seem like it), so I’ll try this iCloud link (tried to edit in some youtube links).

https://youtube.com/shorts/HYyxvboPRuM?feature=share

We also seem to have a very minor suction side leak as we have a constant bit of air in the pump. The installer had found the 3 way valve had a small crack in one of the screw holes and tried to epoxy it. Seems to still be leaking though. Should I try to get a full replacement or try more epoxy? And just to check, after the pump starts up and primes, all of the air should clear out of the pump after a minute or two, right?

https://youtube.com/shorts/JZoibp74sLM?feature=share

I’ll also attach just some basic pictures of our plumbing layout. Thanks for any thoughts.

Can you release all the air from the filter? Does it return? Likely that the cracked valve is still leaking. Epoxy is not the best for that and a cracked valve usually has to be replaced. You could try Plast-Aid, a better product for plastic repair.
At lower speeds there may not be enough water in the pipes to fill the heater. You will hear turbulence. Is it there at a higher speed?
Does the air continue on a higher speed? There are many posts here about air in a VSP on lower RPM. Its the "nature of the beast."

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

For a new build, that valve should be replaced with a new one, not slapped with a band-aid.

I recently had the same problem. Visible air in the pump basket and audible bubbling from the heater. I replaced the clear pump lid and the o-ring under it and my problem was solved. But a small suction leak could be anywhere. Again, in a new build, the builder should be fixing this. I hope you haven't paid in full for the build yet.

 

[Segami]

Can you release all the air from the filter? Does it return? Likely that the cracked valve is still leaking.

I have opened the relief valve at the top of the filter many times - generally what I would consider a fair amount of air in it - I open until I start to hear air hissing, stop there, and after 5-10 seconds, get the water spitting out. Next time I try it, the air is back.

Epoxy is not the best for that and a cracked valve usually has to be replaced. You could try Plast-Aid, a better product for plastic repair.

When the maintenance guy was out to do the original pump setup after filling the pool, he and a coworker noticed small cracks in the screw holes for the actual valves and mentioned the electricians probably used an electric screwdriver when adding the actuators on top of the valve - screwing it in too tight and cracking the housing. The main guy had a jar of two chemicals that he gingerly spread in the faulty area and said it would harden just as solidly as the pipes themselves (I'm not sure exactly what the chemicals were - thought it was an epoxy of some sort? White cream, almost looked like melted marshmallows).

We still have a final payment so I have a little leverage left. I've offered to cover most of the final payment save $1500 until they have their maintenance guy come take another look. Hopefully I can get them to do a full valve swap maybe even in both places (suction leak between main and spa drains causing the air bubbles and a bit of dripping from the return's actuator valve area when running spa mode blasting hot water thru it).

At lower speeds there may not be enough water in the pipes to fill the heater. You will hear turbulence. Is it there at a higher speed?
Does the air continue on a higher speed? There are many posts here about air in a VSP on lower RPM. Its the "nature of the beast."

I know I still get air in the pump when running at higher speeds, but I will have to take a look and see if it changes the noise at the heater. Would constant air from a suction side leak possibly lead to bubbles getting all the way over to the heater and making the turbulence noises?

 

[Poolbreh]

Your pump looks like it’s running fine from the video. Do you see bubbles in the check valve at your bypass? It could be a broken internal bypass.

 

[1poolman1]

I have opened the relief valve at the top of the filter many times - generally what I would consider a fair amount of air in it - I open until I start to hear air hissing, stop there, and after 5-10 seconds, get the water spitting out. Next time I try it, the air is back.


When the maintenance guy was out to do the original pump setup after filling the pool, he and a coworker noticed small cracks in the screw holes for the actual valves and mentioned the electricians probably used an electric screwdriver when adding the actuators on top of the valve - screwing it in too tight and cracking the housing. The main guy had a jar of two chemicals that he gingerly spread in the faulty area and said it would harden just as solidly as the pipes themselves (I'm not sure exactly what the chemicals were - thought it was an epoxy of some sort? White cream, almost looked like melted marshmallows).

We still have a final payment so I have a little leverage left. I've offered to cover most of the final payment save $1500 until they have their maintenance guy come take another look. Hopefully I can get them to do a full valve swap maybe even in both places (suction leak between main and spa drains causing the air bubbles and a bit of dripping from the return's actuator valve area when running spa mode blasting hot water thru it).


I know I still get air in the pump when running at higher speeds, but I will have to take a look and see if it changes the noise at the heater. Would constant air from a suction side leak possibly lead to bubbles getting all the way over to the heater and making the turbulence noises?

Best guess is that it is the valve with the crack and if the installer used a power driver that is easily the cause. Have never seen a cracked valve repaired successfully.