Water flow problem

kristyf2323

New member
Aug 9, 2020
3
Lakeland, FL
Good morning! I have a 17,000 gallon in ground pool with a Pentair Clean and Clear 150 filter. We replaced the motor about a month and a half ago. About 3 weeks ago, we replaced the filter. Did not realize at the time that the pressure gauge was messing up. Changed that 2 weeks ago. We regularly clean the filters and baskets, vacuum the pool, etc. When we changed the guage, we found our normal pressure is about 10 PSI and that it jumps to 20 when it needs to be cleaned. Last week when we cleaned the filter, baskets and etc, when we put them all back in (yes everything is in the correct way) we noticed that the PSI would not drop below 20 and that the flow is not very good. It is still circulating water, but the jets are not pushing out what they normally would. I cannot figure out what the issue could be. I have checked and double and triple checked everything I could think of. Help!!!
 
Hello Kristy and welcome to TFP! :wave: While circulation problems can sometimes be a result of a mechanical issue, you'd be surprised how much more common it is to be a chemical issue and the beginning of an algae bloom. Can you post a full set of water test results first so we can see what your water condition is like? Don't forget to update your signature as well, to include which test kit you are using. Thanks.
 
I just did a water test (at home with a Clorox Pool test strip) but did not take a photo of it, but I remember my levels

Total Hardness: 250
Total Chlorine: 5
Free Chlorine: 3
pH: 7.4
Total Alkalinity: 120
Stabilizer: 100

Also, I get my water tested weekly the pool store and have had great levels for almost 2 months. Which when we bought the home, the pool was dark green and full of frogs, tadpoles, and debris
 
Okay Kristy, so a few things to help get you going since you're new to TFP:
- Test strips are notorious for being way off, and the wide ranges they offer are not accurate enough. Pool store testing is often flawed as well. So you will see here time & time again to test your own water with a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. That's the only way we can help you with chemical advice. You'll see why later. Test Kits Compared
- If your stabilizer is indeed 100 or more, you need to exchange water. The stabilizer got that high from chlorine tabs and/or powdered shocks. The pool store will gladly sell you those products knowing it will increase your CYA too high.
- Your pool is most likely green with algae which requires you to perform a SLAM Process. Before attempting the SLAM, you'll need one of those test kits and also need to lower the CYA by exchanging water. Ideally, bring the CYA down to about 50 or so since it's still hot out. If you refer to our FC/CYA Levels, you can see that a pool with a CYA of 50 would require a SLAM FC level of 20 to do the SLAM Process.

This may seem like a lot of info at once, but you can easily learn it. It all starts with the TF-100 test kit though. It pays for itself ins accuracy, efficiency, and less (or no) time at the pool store. Check out ourABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and let us know if you have any other questions. Folks here are happy to help.
 
My pool is crystal clear!
The onset of algae can be in clear form as well. A pool with a CYA so high and an FC that low, that much out of balance, can very easily have algae in the water which can lead to the filter clogging. Since you never performed a true SLAM Process, the algae may not have ever completely gone away. You have a new pump, pressure gauge, and filter, so the only mechanical scenario would be the filter cart getting clogged. This is why accurate test results are so important at this point.

By the way, did you ever add floc or clarifiers?
 
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