Pool water has been cloudy about 2 weeks now. I drained about 1/3 - 1/2 of the water to "start over" after nothing worked. I cleaned/vacuumed it prior to draining. The chemical levels are all back to normal now (per 3 different tests), cartridge filter is being cleaned daily, pump is running, I stir it up and get in and use the net. I tried the SuperBlue clarifier. So far nothing has worked, still cloudy. This is the 1st year this has has happened. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
Water clarity-I am Baffled
- Thread starter daisylubob
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,926
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Cloudy water generally means algae,
The solution for algae is the SLAM Process done to completion.
To do so you need a Taylor k2006c (available on Amazon etc.) or Tf100/pro (available @ www.tftestkits.net) Test Kits Compared
Clarifiers are a bandaid at best if they even help - if the algae isn’t eradicated the cloudiness will return/ continue.
www.troublefreepool.com
Until u have a recommended test kit in hand u can add 5ppm of liquid chlorine to the pool every day to keep things from getting worse. PoolMath will help u calculate the amount based on the percentage of your bleach/liquid chlorine.
The solution for algae is the SLAM Process done to completion.
To do so you need a Taylor k2006c (available on Amazon etc.) or Tf100/pro (available @ www.tftestkits.net) Test Kits Compared
Clarifier - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
gingrbredman
Gold Supporter
- Jun 10, 2020
- 732
- Pool Size
- 11200
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I am going to guess that being a member here since 2020, and a few posts, you would have learned all about the great test kits at your disposal to see what is happening in your water.
Test Kits Compared
While cloudy water is bad news, the good news is it can usually be identified easily with a good set of test results, and a good plan of action after that. As @Mdragger88 notes, it is likely algae, and that can be conquered with a good ole SLAM.
The first step is to perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, which will confirm the SLAM is needed most likely. With the test results, you will know your CYA level, and therefore your SLAM level of chlorine.
Post up the test results, and then the process of the SLAM, you will find so many people here just waiting to guide you along and get the TFP water in no time!
Test Kits Compared
While cloudy water is bad news, the good news is it can usually be identified easily with a good set of test results, and a good plan of action after that. As @Mdragger88 notes, it is likely algae, and that can be conquered with a good ole SLAM.
The first step is to perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, which will confirm the SLAM is needed most likely. With the test results, you will know your CYA level, and therefore your SLAM level of chlorine.
Post up the test results, and then the process of the SLAM, you will find so many people here just waiting to guide you along and get the TFP water in no time!
The target numbers on the POOLMATH app, are they based on the Taylor k2006c test? I am thinking each type of test has its own set of target numbers.Cloudy water generally means algae,
The solution for algae is the SLAM Process done to completion.
To do so you need a Taylor k2006c (available on Amazon etc.) or Tf100/pro (available @ www.tftestkits.net) Test Kits Compared
Clarifiers are a bandaid at best if they even help - if the algae isn’t eradicated the cloudiness will return/ continue.
Until u have a recommended test kit in hand u can add 5ppm of liquid chlorine to the pool every day to keep things from getting worse. PoolMath will help u calculate the amount based on the percentage of your bleach/liquid chlorine.Clarifier - Further Reading
I have been having the pool store do my testing, until this happened all has been good with the pool
The target numbers aren't based on the results from any particular test kit. They are based on data collected over many years from thousands of pool owners. The test kits recommend here just give you accurate numbers (unlike pool store testing) so you can manage your pool water.
why is pool store testing inaccurate? The test kit has been ordered, it will be here Saturday. What can I do with the pool in the meantime? Keep pump running and clean filter? add chlorine? Vacumm it? Can I swim in it?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,926
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
There are lots of variables when u take your water to be tested at the pool store:
how old is the sample?
Did they clean the equipment between customers?
Have they calibrated their equipment as they should?
Who’s working today? Does he/she do the procedures the same as the other guy?
Even If the test results were 100% accurate each time- relying on the pool store to test your water makes it impractical to test as often as necessary to properly maintain your pool (once a week doesn’t cut it & leads to little problems turning into big ones)
& during the SLAM Process you need to test fc multiple times per day with accuracy.
For now - Until your kit comes in -
add 5 ppm worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day to keep things from getting worse
PoolMath is a calculator that will calculate additions for u.
Based on your estimated pool volume that’s about 1/4 of a gallon of 10% strength liquid chlorine per day
Pour it slowly infront of a running return & brush the area.
When your kit arrives,
Do all the tests & post the results here in this thread.
So it is supposed to rain here all weekend. Will that interfere w/ the SLAM process???? always something
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,965
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
HAHA!!! Got 6 12.5% gals at Menards. If rain should I still run the tests????Rain interfere? Never!!!!!!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,965
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Do your best to maintain the FC SLAM level. Don't take chances with lightening or anything like that. Safety first. The pump should be running so that will help to mix heavy rain water with the pool water for consistent testing. Just do the best you can.
Ok thanks for all of your assistance. This is a HUGE learning curve, and I am doing it on my own.
Best part is you’re not entirely on your own! 
As you’re finding out…lots of
members are more than willing to help you out with any questions or problems. You’ll
get it!
As you’re finding out…lots ofmembers are more than willing to help you out with any questions or problems. You’ll
get it!
Yes it definitely is a learning curve but everyone here is amazing and helpful. If you need proof it works see my pics after about a 8 day slam.
Attachments
So chemicals needed for SLAM are liquid chlorine, pH minus, correct? what about algaecide, stabilizer? I saw the list under PoolMathe and just want to double check.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,653
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Liquid Chlorine to kill algae.
Muriatic Acid to reduce pH. We don't recommend pH minus, contains sulfates which are not recommended.
Dry Stabilizer if necessary.
Nothing else but your test kit.
Now that you have your test kit, please post a full set of results and we will help you get your pool into SLAM mode. I wouldn't do anything until you post results other than adding Liquid Chlorine.
gingrbredman
Gold Supporter
- Jun 10, 2020
- 732
- Pool Size
- 11200
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
To lower the PH, use only liquid muratic acid. Do not use powder, or any new fangled product from a pool store. The only thing you need to lower PH is liquid muratic acid.
You will never need that, maybe it can be used at pool closing, but never needed during the season, and never for a SLAM
gingrbredman
Gold Supporter
- Jun 10, 2020
- 732
- Pool Size
- 11200
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
This is key before beginning the SLAM.
First, in order for the test results to guide you, you do need to know your PH number, and with chlorine above 10, that test becomes invalid. So get the results in, and then adjust your PH (guessing your chlorine is below 10 already).
The next thing is to know your CYA number. Before adding any dry CYA, see what it is, because your chlorine SLAM level will depend on your CYA. Too high and the total chlorine needed can be really, really high. Too low, and you need to add, but the key here is the test results first.
Well, first is to keep adding the 5ppm of chlorine a day as @Mdragger88 notes above.
Did your kit arrive? Which one did you buy? When do we get to see test results? Come on come on!! Post em up!