Water chemistry - need help!

[Isasate]

Good day,

I'm new to this forum and the TFP world. First time pool owner as well. I need help understanding what's going on with my water chemistry. A little background first:

Pool - Fiberglass - 7800 gallons aprox.
SWG - Hayward AquaRite - Chlorine output 1.45lbs/24hrs - Desired Output % is at 80% (PB instructed me not to change it)
Pool test kit - Taylor K2006 C
PB half cleaned the pool for the first time (after being green for 2 months) on 3/11/2022. He added salt, 2 jugs of Muriatic Acid (no idea what %) and some powder that turned the pool back to blue within hours. He did no test whatsoever.

Back to the issue. Yesterday, I used my Taylor K2006 for the first time, multiple times to make sure I didn't miss anything. Got the following readings:

3/15/2022

FC - 0.4
CC - Between 0.2 - 0.4
pH - 8
TA - 90
CH - 90
CYA - "Non detectable" meaning I could see the black dot at all times. No cloudiness whatsoever.
SWG displayed 3000 in the afternoon when I performed the test. I know future tests need to be done later in the evening or at night, except CYA. If I'm mistaken please let me know. I'm a rookie.

After I got my results, I was ready to come here and ask for help to balance the water, but my PB cleaning guy came over to finish cleaning the pool, and he added TWO jugs of muriatic acid to the pool. No questions asked. No test performed. He also when to the SWG panel and the reading was 2700, so he dumped half a bag of salt to the pool.

Today, I went ahead and did another test to see what the 2 jugs of MA did to the water chemistry. This is where is gets interesting:

3/16/2022

FC - 0, it wouldn't turn pink, no matter how much more I added. There were clumps at the bottom.
CC - nothing
pH - bellow 7, incredibly yellow. I lost count how many drops of base demand I added to get something in between 7.2 and 7.4. Blurry picture for reference:



TA - wouldn't turn green
CYA - non detectable
SWG now reads 3400

I repeated the tests multiple times, speechless. I don't know what is going on, why my PB decided my pool needed 2 additional jugs of MA.

What should I do? I turned the Super Chlorinate ON today. Still at 80%. I understand I need to add CYA to help with Chlorine loss, and I now have to bump the pH. But I'm lost.

Thanks a lot

 

[Bperry]

Good day,

I'm new to this forum and the TFP world. First time pool owner as well. I need help understanding what's going on with my water chemistry. A little background first:

Pool - Fiberglass - 7800 gallons aprox.
SWG - Hayward AquaRite - Chlorine output 1.45lbs/24hrs - Desired Output % is at 80% (PB instructed me not to change it)
Pool test kit - Taylor K2006 C
PB half cleaned the pool for the first time (after being green for 2 months) on 3/11/2022. He added salt, 2 jugs of Muriatic Acid (no idea what %) and some powder that turned the pool back to clue within hours. He did no test whatsoever.

Back to the issue. Yesterday, I used my Taylor K2006 for the first time, multiple times to make sure I didn't miss anything. Got the following readings:

3/15/2022

FC - 0.4
CC - Between 0.2 - 0.4
pH - 8
TA - 90
CH - 90
CYA - "Non detectable" meaning I could see the black dot at all times. No cloudiness whatsoever.
SWG displayed 3000 in the afternoon when I performed the test. I know future tests need to be done later in the evening or at night, except CYA. If I'm mistaken please let me know. I'm a rookie.

After I got my results, I was ready to come here and ask for help to balance the water, but my PB cleaning guy came over to finish cleaning the pool, and he added TWO jugs of muriatic acid to the pool. No questions asked. No test performed. He also when to the SWG panel and the reading was 2700, so he dumped half a bag of salt to the pool.

Today, I went ahead and did another test to see what the 2 jugs of MA did to the water chemistry. This is where is gets interesting:

3/16/2022

FC - 0, it wouldn't turn pink, no matter how much more I added. There were clumps at the bottom.
CC - nothing
pH - bellow 7, incredibly yellow. I lost count how many drops of base demand I added to get something in between 7.2 and 7.4. Blurry picture for reference:

View attachment 394990

TA - wouldn't turn green
CYA - non detectable
SWG now reads 3400

I repeated the tests multiple times, speechless. I don't know what is going on, why my PB decided my pool needed 2 additional jugs of MA.

What should I do? I turned the Super Chlorinate ON today. Still at 80%. I understand I need to add CYA to help with Chlorine loss, and I now have to bump the pH. But I'm lost.

Thanks a lot

Turn super chlorinate off and go get some chlorinating liquid from Home Depot or Lowe’s and use that to get your FC up to 3-4ppm. Also pickup some CYA powder and add enough (using the sock method) to get the CYA up to 30-40ppm. The SWG is only for maintaining FC, not raising it large amounts quickly.

The pH should rise on its own slowly, but you should keep an eye on it to see how fast or slow it rises.

Then don’t let the pool guy add any more acid without first testing the pH to see if it needs it. Best to not let him back near the pool at all.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have a heater?

Your pH is not going to come up with TA 0. You need to bring your TA up to at least 40 with whichever chemical you can get. Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add…

Chemicals suggested for raising TA. Their effects are:

• Baking Soda = big TA change, small pH change
• Borax = big pH change, small TA change
• Soda Ash/Washing Soda = big pH change, big TA change.

Keep your SWG on super chlorinate. You can use all the chlorine you can get. It does not do any harm to run in that mode. Then also add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine.

And add CYA.

@mknauss

 

[Mdragger88]

I know future tests need to be done later in the evening or at night, except CYA. If I'm mistaken please let me know. I'm a rookie.

Cya test should be done outdoors on a sunny day w/ your back to the sun.
All other tests can be done whenever.

If he used full strength Muriatic acid he tanked your ta & ph.
You need to add about 4# of soda ash (super washing soda) to get TA back up in the 50’s asap.
You can use baking soda but it will take alot more.
Use PoolMath to calculate additions.
Also do as bperry suggested & get some liquid chlorine (at least 3ppm worth) & stabilizer (30ppm worth in a sock) going.
Did they leave u with any chems? If so- what do u have?
Definitely don’t let that guy back near your pool

 

[mknauss]

@Isasate Welcome to the forum!

You have received some great advice above. Address the TA issue first. Once you can read a TA value, your pH will rise.

Once things settle down, I suggest you read through Pool School - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

 

[bertschb]

Definitely don’t let that guy back near your pool

^^^ This ^^^

 

[Bperry]

Welcome to TFP.

Do you have a heater?

Your pH is not going to come up with TA 0. You need to bring your TA up to at least 40 with whichever chemical you can get. Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add…

Chemicals suggested for raising TA. Their effects are:

• Baking Soda = big TA change, small pH change
• Borax = big pH change, small TA change
• Soda Ash/Washing Soda = big pH change, big TA change.

Keep your SWG on super chlorinate. You can use all the chlorine you can get. It does not do any harm to run in that mode. Then also add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine.

And add CYA.

@mknauss

Yikes, didn’t catch the TA (or lack of it I guess).

 

[Isasate]

Do you have a heater?

No, I do not.

Then don’t let the pool guy add any more acid without first testing the pH to see if it needs it. Best to not let him back near the pool at all.

Word. Applies to any of my PB guys in general. I could write a book of all the stuff they have messed up in the install process.

You have received some great advice above. Address the TA issue first. Once you can read a TA value, your pH will rise.

That was going to be my next question, actually. The order of the chemicals/adjustments. I have a lot to read tonight, but I feel confident I will be able to tackle everything tomorrow morning.

Cya test should be done outdoors on a sunny day w/ your back to the sun.
All other tests can be done whenever.

Got it, thanks!

Definitely don’t let that guy back near your pool

Sigh... Just another thing to add to the list of "wth" things they have done.


Thank you all for the help. Greatly appreciate it. I'll buy everything I need at Lowe's tomorrow. My HD only had MA, and I want to stay away from it for a while

 

[ajw22]

All chemicals can be added at the same time except for chlorine and muriatic acid that must be added at least 15 minutes apart.

How long to wait between adding pool chemicals

The wait times between adding pool chemicals is usually around 10 minutes each, as that is also sufficient time for the chemicals to mix in the water.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

The Walmarts here have started stocking pool essentials liquid chlorine & granular stabilizer in the pool/garden section & they generally have large bags of baking soda as well as boxes of soda ash (arm & hammer super washing soda - its a yellow box) & borax in the laundry aisle. Incase you’re looking for a one stop shop.

 

[Isasate]

Update! I got everything I needed today. This are my readings today:

3/17/2022

FC - 4
CC - 0
pH - bellow 7. 23 drops of base demand to get to 7.4
TA - sample turned red instead of green
CH - 100
CYA - Nothing

Before I go dump super washing soda to raise the TA, is there anything else I need to do first? I'm surprised FC is now 4, I guess the super chlorinate do work. I turned off. Do I need to get to 5?

I got some CYA (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Clorox-Pool-Spa-Clorox-Pool-Spa-Chlorine-Stabilizer/1001873978). Do I worry about it now or after I balance the TA?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Keep your super chlorinate going, Your FC is not going to last long with no CYA.

Get the CYA in and dissolving.

Add some washing soda but don't over do it. Add some and test in an hour and repeat until you get your TA and pH up.

 

[mknauss]

Add 2 pounds of soda ash -- mix well with pump running and brush the pool. You can start your CYA dissolving using the sock method whenever you wish. This will add about 30 ppm TA.

After an hour or so, test your TA. If you get a reading above 0, post it here. If not, add another 2 pounds of soda ash.

 

[Isasate]

Got it. What is my CYA target? According to Water Balance for SWGs it should be between 70 - 80. PoolMath says about 4#. Does this makes sense? Should I add 2# and see how it goes? Sock method ofc.

 

[mknauss]

Target a CYA of 40 ppm for now. That is about 2.5#. Once it is fully dissolved, wait a few days and test your CYA. You can then raise your CYA to 70 ppm once all water chemistry is stable.

 

[Isasate]

Ok perfect. Soda ash is in. I will add CYA later today.

In the meantime, while I was brushing I noticed these black/brown dots in the shell of the pool. Wouldn't come off with brushing. Tried scratching with my nail and nothing. And idea what is it and how do I get rid of it?

 

[Isasate]

New TA is at 10 at the moment. Progress.

Added CYA with sock method. But when I was testing the TA the sock broke and 1/3 of the CYA got into the bottom of the pool I reinforced it with a second sock and it seems to be holding up nicely. Do I need to do something specific with the CYA that got off the sock, or do I just let it be and wait...?

Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Brush the CYA around on the floor until it dissolves. CYA is a mild acid and can stain the pool surface if left on it. Keep pushing it around.

 

[mknauss]

Brush the cya around. It should not be a big deal with your fiberglass.
Add 1 pound more of soda ash.

The dark dots you need to see if a few vitamin c tablets in a thin sock set on them does anything.

 

[MITBeta]

You're going to want to avoid going to 70ppm with the CYA until all your other chems are balanced and you've had a chance to do a couple of Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to make sure that PB got all the algae. I'm betting he didn't and you may need to follow the SLAM Process. This will be much easier to do at lower levels of CYA.