- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That shows the conduit only has a 120V power cable to the Aquarite.
No data cable to connect with the Omnihub.
Warped baffle
- Thread starter branlyon
- Start date
No data cable to connect with the Omnihub.
I do not have a multimeter. If this isn't the cause, do you have an idea as to what else would cause this? Wouldn't I expect to see the no flow light on even if the cell was damaged? I unplugged the connection and back in. The no flow flashes for a bit but goes away. It does seem like it probably isn't turning off. Do you think the heat fried some of the internal components?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Was the pump ON or OFF when you unplugged the connection?
The flow switch is independent of the cell. You can see it is in a different place in the plumbing.
Pump ON or OFF when you did that?
Nope.
You need to replace the flow switch. It unscrews from the pipe and plugs into the box. Pretty easy to replace.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you are going to run your SWG cell you should run your pump 24/7 until he flow switch is replaced.
The pump was off. I think my cell is dead or damaged too much. It won't register the instantaneous salt levels and the inspect cell and check salt lights are solid.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
And the Aquarite panel power should be wired through a Hayward Smart Relay connected to the OmniHub or if you have a AQR940/AQR925 connected through the HLAQRPCB to the Omnihub.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That confirms your flow switch is stuck closed and needs to be replaced.
Connect the cell and run the pump and tell me the diagnostic information.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Auto to off
- 30.0
- 0.00
- 99p
- -0
- AL -1
- r 1.59
- t-15
Auto on
Only change is 30 to 29.7
1 min off back on
Levels all the same as above
Box and cell serial attached in pictures.
Salinity is around 2700. Checking with salt strips.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yup, your cell looks dead.
You do have an AQR940 controller which means it can be connected to the OmniHub using the HLAQRPCB board.
It is interesting that your board says AL-1
See if that makes any difference in the other cell diagnostics.
I suggest you make another warranty claim with Hayward with that cell as the serial number says it is a 2024 cell with a 1 year warranty.
2700 is a marginal salt level. I suggest you get your own K-1766 salt test kit - Salt
You do have an AQR940 controller which means it can be connected to the OmniHub using the HLAQRPCB board.
It is interesting that your board says AL-1
- AL-0 is AquaRite.
- AL-1 NatureSoft.
- AL-2 MineralSprings.
- AL-3 SmartPure.
See if that makes any difference in the other cell diagnostics.
I suggest you make another warranty claim with Hayward with that cell as the serial number says it is a 2024 cell with a 1 year warranty.
2700 is a marginal salt level. I suggest you get your own K-1766 salt test kit - Salt
Switched it to AL-0 and there is still no difference in the diagnostic settings.
Im not sure how long it'd take for them to send me another one if they even do at all. I had to fight tooth and nail to get them to even send me second one. They were persistent on me going through my pool builder. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I ordered a Taylor test kit so I'll check my levels again to make sure it's within standard threshold.
Also, thank you for the help. I really appreciate it. It's nice to finally have an idea what is going on.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,583
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I dumped the Aquarite system I had many years ago and have no experience dealing with Hayward.
Your builder did you no favors with that Omnihub and Aquarite setup. He should have given you an integrated OmniPL system. And then he did not properly connect the Omnihub and Aquarite.
I also want to point out @mknauss comment that if you turn off your pump at 3PM and your cell is in the AZ sun in the afternoon with no water flow it can get quite hot just from baking in the sun.
Your builder did you no favors with that Omnihub and Aquarite setup. He should have given you an integrated OmniPL system. And then he did not properly connect the Omnihub and Aquarite.
I also want to point out @mknauss comment that if you turn off your pump at 3PM and your cell is in the AZ sun in the afternoon with no water flow it can get quite hot just from baking in the sun.
Are you using the heat pump?
It looks like the heater bypass is open.
Maybe the heater is running with no flow?
The problem does look like a heat issue, but I don't think that the cell gets hot from running with no flow.
It can build up gas and explode, but I have not seen reports of the cell getting hot.
Maybe it is due to sun exposure but that seems unlikely.
It looks like the heater bypass is open.
Maybe the heater is running with no flow?
The problem does look like a heat issue, but I don't think that the cell gets hot from running with no flow.
It can build up gas and explode, but I have not seen reports of the cell getting hot.
Maybe it is due to sun exposure but that seems unlikely.
I have a heat/chill pump but the bypass valve is closed so it isn't going through the system right now.
I don't think it's sun exposure. The cell gets afternoon shade when it's the hottest part of the day. Also, I would expect to see this be a common issue for the SW, like AZ and NV. I haven't found anything online for my problem.
This is the bypass, which is open.
How is the heater isolated?
Are you sure that the heater is not running?
How is the heater isolated?
Are you sure that the heater is not running?
You're right it is open. The heater is not on. It's a heat pump that is controlled via my omnilogic app. It has not been on for a few months and not definitely not since I got the new cell.
My cell does not run past 9 am and doesn't get deformed at all like this one did. Mine gets afternoon shade as well. I'm also thinking it's because the cell is still on the entire time the filter is turned off. Whoever diagnosed this before needs to own up to giving you another new cell and a flow switch.
It seems like something is causing the cell to get excessively hot.
Maybe sun, maybe running with no flow, maybe the heater, maybe some other cause that we have not thought of yet.
Hard to tell for sure, but the heat is probably damaging the cell.
Maybe sun, maybe running with no flow, maybe the heater, maybe some other cause that we have not thought of yet.
Hard to tell for sure, but the heat is probably damaging the cell.
I believe the likely problem is a failure in the flow controller, causing the system to remain on after the pump has turned off. I'm unsure why it gets that warm to starts warping, but it seems like this could be a product defect.