VS pump runtime/speed

[anthony21078]

Last summer I was able to get my single speed pump to run for a total of 7 hours per day (9am-1pm and 10pm-1am) and my water was balanced and skimming seemed to be sufficient. New VS pump was installed and the pool store owner recommends 21 hours a day at 1050rpm, 2 hours a day at 3100rpm (broken up into 2 (1) hour sessions 12 hours apart to "really move the water around") and one hour off. This is how they set the timers on my pump.

Im more concerned with proper water chemistry/keeping the pool clean then saving every last penny on electricity. Right now with these pump settings, skimming seems to be working very well. I have numerous tall trees around my property and my skimmers are full each day. I have 2 skimmers and 2 returns on a rectangular pool. Both returns are pointing in the same direction to encourage a circular flow with one return barely breaking the water surface and the other angled towards the floor.

On the low setting of 1050rpms, the debris on the water surface does move but very very slowly. I know there is no perfect answer for this question on speed/runtime and will likely come from trial and error. But perhaphs the experts could point me in the right direction with a place to start if they disagree with the current settings and current VS pump owners could post their runtimes/speed as well

 

[ajw22]

If your skimmers are full every day and debris finds its way into the skimmers then your setup in good. Debris will move slowly and eventually find its way into the skimmers. You might want to review Determine Pump Run Time - Trouble Free Pool

Pump runtime does not affect your water chemistry. Post your test results to discuss your water chemistry.

 

[mknauss]

Why have the pump shut off at all? If you are running 23 hours a day, just run it 24 hours a day. No priming each day.

I assume you are chlorinating with liquid chlorine. If still using pucks, your low rate will struggle to erode them quickly enough.

 

[PoolGate]

I run my VSP 24x7 but I also have a SWG. The lowest I run it is 2000 for around 22 hours and 2 hours of 3000. I was at 1500 and that was ok but any lower and my SWG complains. When the heater kicks on it goes to 3000 as well.

 

[Pool_Medic]

If you only ran your 1hp for seven hours a day and everything is fine, why aren’t you doing the same with your new vs? It shouldn’t need priming on every schedule. If the pump basket isn’t staying full you have a pressure side leak. Gauge, sight glass or fittings.

 

[anthony21078]

Why have the pump shut off at all? If you are running 23 hours a day, just run it 24 hours a day. No priming each day.

I assume you are chlorinating with liquid chlorine. If still using pucks, your low rate will struggle to erode them quickly enough.

Not sure why they setup the timers that way. I dont agree with it. Yes Im still using pucks for the time being but the chlorniator is empty. Waiting for the FC to drop to almost zero so I can treat with abscorbic acid right now. Likely switch to liquid after I get the liner staining sorted out

If you only ran your 1hp for seven hours a day and everything is fine, why aren’t you doing the same with your new vs? It shouldn’t need priming on every schedule. If the pump basket isn’t staying full you have a pressure side leak. Gauge, sight glass or fittings.

These are the settings the the pool store entered on the pump which is why Im looking for advice on a better schedule. I had a suction side leak at first that I corrected and now the pump basket has no air when running at a high rpm and a small bubble about 1inch wide when on the low setting.

Interesting point on the priming for each schedule. The priming is set to 3 minutes.

I think Ill back it down to a 8 hour run time on a low setting and see how the skimming goes for now.

 

[PoolGate]

Not sure why they setup the timers that way. I dont agree with it. Yes Im still using pucks for the time being but the chlorniator is empty. Waiting for the FC to drop to almost zero so I can treat with abscorbic acid right now. Likely switch to liquid after I get the liner staining sorted out



These are the settings the the pool store entered on the pump which is why Im looking for advice on a better schedule. I had a suction side leak at first that I corrected and now the pump basket has no air when running at a high rpm and a small bubble about 1inch wide when on the low setting.

Interesting point on the priming for each schedule. The priming is set to 3 minutes.

I think Ill back it down to a 8 hour run time on a low setting and see how the skimming goes for now.

I don't think you have a choice on priming, if the pump comes from being off, it will prime itself. Mine is also set for 3 minutes. I tried 2 minutes and it was a mistake so I put it back to 3.

 

[mknauss]

I think Ill back it down to a 8 hour run time on a low setting and see how the skimming goes for now.

Good plan. Are you using Polyquat 60 during your Ascorbic Acid treatment?

 

[anthony21078]

Good plan. Are you using Polyquat 60 during your Ascorbic Acid treatment?

Yes. Started the process last night.

Dropped FC to almost zero with a neutralize
Dropped the PH to 7.0
Filter on circulate
Added 16oz of Kemtek 60% algeacide
Added 1lb abscorbic acid. Waited 30 min but didnt see any stains lift
Added another 1lb of abscrobic acid and over the next 30 minutes and all the staining was gone.
Added 2 quarts of Metal Out by Pool Mate
Filter back on filter mode.

So last night the liner was clean and blue everywhere. Here we are 14 hours later and the water is turning green which I think is to be expected. Since my CYA is around 150, Im going to drain the pool as much as I can. I believe I shouldnt go lower then 1 foot in the shallow end which is about 3 feet

 

[Pool_Medic]

If you hit the - button when priming mode is on, it will shut off once you hit 1700 rpm.