VS Motor Swap

There is a big air gap in the pump lid and the SWCG plates aren’t covered - is that an issue?
That should not be. A small bubble of air at the top of the pump lid is ok. The SWCG should be full of water.

Raise your rpm a bit and see if it clears.
 
That should not be. A small bubble of air at the top of the pump lid is ok. The SWCG should be full of water.

Raise your rpm a bit and see if it clears.
Helps but it doesn’t look like it used to - a small bubble in the lid.

I changed the two diffuser o-rings and the backplate o-ring. The pipe o-rings were just changed last year, and I didn’t mess with the couplings when I took the old motor off.
 
it’s spewing bubbles out of the return.
Yes. The SWCG does create some small bubbles, but you need to check the suction side. Be sure to clean and lubricate the pump basket seal, drain plugs, etc. Use proper pool lube.
 
Yes. The SWCG does create some small bubbles, but you need to check the suction side. Be sure to clean and lubricate the pump basket seal, drain plugs, etc. Use proper pool lube.
We put Magiclube II on the basket lid, drain plugs, diffuser, and backplate. Only one I didn’t relube is the inlet coupler. I’ll give that a shot.
 
Wrap it with plastic wrap first to see if it is the leak.
All wrapped, no change. Went ahead and wrapped everything above ground on the supply side besides the pump itself. No change. Oh boy, is it possible that a broken pipe underground is causing this? Is there any way to check the motor seals to make sure they are sealed all the way? I used the torque specs the manual provided.
 
Underground leaks are very rare.

Go through all the suction side. If you are pulling that much air, it should show up somewhere.

I am not sure on the pump -- let's have some others chime in on that.
 

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I followed the backplate torque recommendation (10ft-lbs). Could the backplate just need to be tightened up? It’s hard to tell if I feel air coming out of that or their or housing because it’s so strong but one spot on the backplate does seem to have air coming out of it.
 
Man that coupler is on tight. Going to need a strap wrench to get it loose, I think.

Wrenching a union that uses an O ring is usually not helpful. An O ring union should be hand tightened and then maybe another 1/4 turn at most. The O ring should seal it without undo pressure. If you have a leak it means the O ring is not functioning properly.
 
Wrenching a union that uses an O ring is usually not helpful. An O ring union should be hand tightened and then maybe another 1/4 turn at most. The O ring should seal it without undo pressure. If you have a leak it means the O ring is not functioning properly.
It’s super tight, but in any case, I wrapped it with plastic to see if that would seal it as @mknauss suggested and it didn’t help, so I figure I should leave it alone. I’m suspicious that the backplate o-ring is not sealing.
 
We just disassembled the back assembly and relubed the diffuser O-rings and backplate o-ring, and went ahead and relubed the lid and plugs. Torqued the bolts to just over 10ft-lbs this time. There is still a huge air gap under the lid, I attached some pictures while it’s running. Air bubbles are still in the returns.

Also, there is a very audible squeak when it starts and stops, is that normal?
 

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You are pulling air into the system from the suction side. Squeak can sometimes be the fan assembly on the motor.

I wonder if your use of an older wet end and new power end is just not working out.
 
After much more troubleshooting, I think I have at least found a majority of the issue. My waterfall feature has to be primed (there are some problems with it so I have left it turned off). I had primed it before but it must be losing prime way faster lately.

Now I have the small bubble at the top!
 

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