VGreen 165 Control Panel Issue - possible workarounds using digital inputs

[thefisch]

Note that water can sometimes leak into the wiring compartment through the top screw that holds down the wiring compartment cover.

It will run down the post and fill the wiring compartment and short everything out.

Make sure that the screw has an O-ring and maybe put a piece of tape over the screw.

You can also press a piece of plumbers putty on top of the screw to seal out the water. The putty never hardens and can be removed easily should you need to get back in there.

The o-ring is dried up after 4 years and falling apart. Inside still looks pretty good. I was planning on putting some silicone lube in the threads to help. Also have a cover for the motor to cut down on rain hitting it hard.

 

[thefisch]

I put a cover over mine to keep the heat and water off the motor, has worked great for 6 years

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IMAG0015.jpg

• cowboycasey
• Sep 12, 2020

About 6 months ago, I covered mine with some PVC sign board zip tied to the pipe coming off the pump to reduce the impact of rain coming off the roof line. Still gets wet indirectly but not as bad. Should have done it from the beginning - there was already some damage to the coating after 3.5 years.

 

[thefisch]

Just to follow up, after playing phone tag, I got a call today from a Century product rep. I had contacted them last week to see if they had any troubleshooting steps for me to try. The guy was very helpful, but he thinks in my case the weld under the start button had come loose.

He shared that they did have an issue 3-4 years ago with control board buttons not working. While they are not serviceable, he was aware that some customers have swapped the drive unit (the upper housing with the control board) from another motor where perhaps the motor portion was bad. He cautioned that the wiring between the drive unit and motor would be fragile after years of exposure and there is not an wiring plug that would allow for easy change out. Despite not having a spare drive unit anyway, not sure I would attempt this unless it was a last resort.

So far the digital input hack is working as a single speed motor. I started looking into timer relays like this one that could allow me to run a second step for a period of time. But I am going to wait a little bit to make sure there aren't other issues.

 

[cowboycasey]

That is basically what I use when I start my SWG, it turns on the 120v to 24v and then turns on mode 3, easy peasy

 

[setsailsoon]

I just put a blob of UV resistant sealant on my screw that has an o-ring also. Belt and suspenders. Took it apart after 5 days of monsoon rains we get here. Bone dry so I resealed and haven't had any issues.

 

[Henry M]

Fan of the forum - finally joined to ask a question before I dive in the deep end.

Installed a VGreen 165 about 4 years ago - the motor has been running fine since, but the start button on the control panel is unresponsive and the motor won’t restart. See background below for more information on why I think the control panel is the issue and not the motor.

As far I can tell, the control panels on the VGreen 165 are not serviceable. From my research, my options seem to be:

1. Replace the motor
2. Install the VLink VL100 - not really interested in controlling from my phone or putting $300 into this motor
3. Install the VGreen 270 User Interface – this is more affordable at $230, but it is not clear how this interface can mount on top of the VGreen 165 as there are no screw holes that appear to line up. With only 6 inches of cable it either goes on top or I'm spending more for an extender.

But after reading threads on here about VGreen 165 automation setups and control panel issues, I thought that maybe I could temporarily run the motor using the digital inputs. It seems from the manual (section 9, on page 23) that the 12v output and com for the RS485 could be jumpered to the digital inputs for step 1 and com. Then I could at least run the pool for a few hours to keep it clean in the meantime. I realize the digital inputs are designed for an external source but it appears that the RS485 could provide the power needed with the correct dip switch setting.

View attachment 314550

Rather than use relays for the different steps, I would just wire step 1 and com and use the timer to turn on and off. This would not be a long-term solution, but might by me some time until I can consider my options.

Anyone have thoughts on my options or jumping the digital inputs?

______________________________________________

Background:

Previously I only used the control panel to tweak the schedule which was seldom. The power to the motor is controlled by an intermatic timer so that the VGreen 165 simply runs it's schedule when the timer kicks the power on.

About 10 months ago, I pressed stop on the control panel (instead of flipping the timer switch) so I could empty the pump basket without restarting the schedule. Afterwards pressing the start button wouldn't register so the motor wouldn't come back on. All the other buttons registered just fine to change the settings for each step, set key lockout, reset to defaults, etc. I was very close to giving up and replacing it when the 500th press of start was the charm and it fired back up. Afterwards, I covered the start/stop buttons with tape so I wouldn't make that mistake again. For the last 10 months the motor ran just fine with the timer controlling the power so I figured the control panel was the issue - not the motor.

All was fine until this week, when someone helping me with the pool pressed the stop button by mistake while fumbling with the steps. Now the motor won't turn on since the start button won't register (despite my best telegraph operator impression).

According to VGreen 165 User Manual, the VGreen 270 User Interface can also be remotely mounted. Given that it cannot be mounted on VGreen 165 motor, maybe this would make sense. Anyone ever done this?

 

[cowboycasey]

I have mine remotely mounted about 40 feet away on my deck, works perfect

 

[Henry M]

I did noticed once the override button wasn't working. I could push it but it wouldn't do anything. I did a "reboot" by killing the breaker, pushing a few buttons to drain any stored power and back on that fixed it.

Thanks for posting this. I was having similar issues with my v-green 165; I followed the process you mentioned, and the issue is resolved. Again, many thanks.

 

[dakshun]

Note that water can sometimes leak into the wiring compartment through the top screw that holds down the wiring compartment cover.

It will run down the post and fill the wiring compartment and short everything out.

Make sure that the screw has an O-ring and maybe put a piece of tape over the screw.

James,
What happens when everything shorts out?

Is it possible to get just the control boards? V-Green 270/Century variable speed motor

Does anyone know where to get just the controllers? I am running models numbers and all I am finding are complete packages with motor, control unit, and user interface. I just need the two control boxes up top. I had water incursion a few weeks/months ago. So, I dried out what I could and...

www.troublefreepool.com

I am pretty sure I shorted everything out.
I doused it with a burst a few weeks ago, but once I dried out the user interface it worked fine, but just went out today to find it completely unresponsive.
I have it disassembled now drying it out with fans, It already looks dry but I may reassemble tomorrow.
Obviously, I will try reassembly, but I am not even sure if I can get the controller only, all I see are full packages with motor, controller, and user interface. I have found 1 stand alone user interface replacement, but not the controller stand alone.
Do you have any idea where I can get the controller only?

 

[markayash]

James,
What happens when everything shorts out?

Is it possible to get just the control boards? V-Green 270/Century variable speed motor

Does anyone know where to get just the controllers? I am running models numbers and all I am finding are complete packages with motor, control unit, and user interface. I just need the two control boxes up top. I had water incursion a few weeks/months ago. So, I dried out what I could and...

www.troublefreepool.com

I am pretty sure I shorted everything out.
I doused it with a burst a few weeks ago, but once I dried out the user interface it worked fine, but just went out today to find it completely unresponsive.
I have it disassembled now drying it out with fans, It already looks dry but I may reassemble tomorrow.
Obviously, I will try reassembly, but I am not even sure if I can get the controller only, all I see are full packages with motor, controller, and user interface. I have found 1 stand alone user interface replacement, but not the controller stand alone.
Do you have any idea where I can get the controller only?

Did you try inyopool? I had their punp with that motor and my seal leaked and I didn’t notice it until it started getting louder.
I replaced the seal and stuck it in the basement for a spare but doubt I will ever use it. If you were local I would sel it cheap

 

[dakshun]

Did you try inyopool? I had their punp with that motor and my seal leaked and I didn’t notice it until it started getting louder.
I replaced the seal and stuck it in the basement for a spare but doubt I will ever use it. If you were local I would sel it cheap

Markayash,
Yes, thank you, I see inyopool has the whole motor package.
Would you be willing to ship the control boxes if you have them in a simple USPS flat rate box?
Let me know if you have a price for that, it would help me out.

I only need the control boxes; full zelle, paypal, cashapp, etc

 

[dakshun]

... well glad I didn't wait around.

Surprisingly element seals appear way better.