I'm brand new to the group. This is my 3rd year with my pool and I'm still learning. I've been taking my water to the pool company and using their test methods which is usually very helpful but it's time for me to learn to take care of this myself. I ordered the TF100 kit today but I've been on vacation and returned to a very green pool. My dad had taken a water sample to the pool company 2 days before I came home. The CYA was 90 at that point but nothing was said to him about dumping any water but sold him 40.00 worth of chemicals. He also used an additional 6 pounds of shock only to have no results as you can understand and I do too now that I'm learning. So I took another water sample yesterday to them and the CYA was now 110. I was told to dump half which I did and got it down to 54. I was told to put 5 lbs of shock in and the water would be blue (not clear) by today but guess what, it's not. It's now a light green. I'm learning 54 is still too high so I'm dumping a little more today, just under the skimmer. I'm out of shock and I'm wodering, can I use standard bleach ( Sodium Hypochorite) until my kit comes in and the company opens tomorrow to test my water again? Or is there something about the sodium. Last known ph was 6.5 but I added 12 pounds yesterday. Can't get a reading today since they're closed.
Using bleach
- Thread starter stargazer1018
- Start date
Re: Using bleach
Bleach is what we recommend that you use at all times. No need for any other form of chlorine. Either bleach or liquid chlorine. Really the same thing just different strengths. Watch out for extra things though. You want PLAIN bleach, no scents, no splashless, no extra added anything. I use Walmart 'cleaning' bleach and it works fine for me.
Bleach is what we recommend that you use at all times. No need for any other form of chlorine. Either bleach or liquid chlorine. Really the same thing just different strengths. Watch out for extra things though. You want PLAIN bleach, no scents, no splashless, no extra added anything. I use Walmart 'cleaning' bleach and it works fine for me.
Re: Using bleach
Thanks so much. Do you know how much I should put in a 17000 gal pool if my CYA is maybe around 40-45 now that I've added new water. I don't know that's what it is, I dumped about 25% of the water when the CYA was at 54.
Thanks so much. Do you know how much I should put in a 17000 gal pool if my CYA is maybe around 40-45 now that I've added new water. I don't know that's what it is, I dumped about 25% of the water when the CYA was at 54.
Re: Using bleach
Use PoolMath to help you out. My pool is 17500 and a half gal. of 10% brings it up almost 3ppm. Congrats on your TF100 purchase! You're gonna love it. It will keep you out of the pool store AND save you a bunch of $'s.
Use PoolMath to help you out. My pool is 17500 and a half gal. of 10% brings it up almost 3ppm. Congrats on your TF100 purchase! You're gonna love it. It will keep you out of the pool store AND save you a bunch of $'s.
laprjns
LifeTime Supporter
- Aug 14, 2012
- 577
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Re: Using bleach
If you are in Seymour CT, then Ocean State Job Lot has the best deal for liquid chlorine. Its $2.99 a gallon for 12.5%. You can find it in their seasonal pool section.
If you are in Seymour CT, then Ocean State Job Lot has the best deal for liquid chlorine. Its $2.99 a gallon for 12.5%. You can find it in their seasonal pool section.
Re: Using bleach
Thanks rammy, I'll have to check that out. I paid 18.00 for a bucket of alkalinity plus today at the pool store and learned from this website that I could have bought 12 pounds of Arm & Hammer for 8.00, and it's the same thing. I'm so glad I found this site. I'm learning so much! Can't wait until my test kit comes in. In the mean time, I bought "back to blue" kit from the pool store, hopefully my green creamer pool will be blue tomorrow. I can't wait to control it myself with regular chemicals.
Thanks rammy, I'll have to check that out. I paid 18.00 for a bucket of alkalinity plus today at the pool store and learned from this website that I could have bought 12 pounds of Arm & Hammer for 8.00, and it's the same thing. I'm so glad I found this site. I'm learning so much! Can't wait until my test kit comes in. In the mean time, I bought "back to blue" kit from the pool store, hopefully my green creamer pool will be blue tomorrow. I can't wait to control it myself with regular chemicals.
Re: Using bleach
Welcome to TFP!!!
I would return whatever is in the "back to blue" kit to the pool store ... if even for store credit to get liquid chlorine or toys.
Welcome to TFP!!!I would return whatever is in the "back to blue" kit to the pool store ... if even for store credit to get liquid chlorine or toys.
Mendy48
Bronze Supporter
Re: Using bleach
As you wait for your kit to arrive, add about a half a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine until you get your kit. That will add close to 5 ppm FC per day. Brush the walls of your pool and the area where your ladder(s) is. Scoop out as much junk (if you have any) from the surface of your pool as well the bottom. Let your pump run 24 hours and keep adding 5ppm of chlorine every day until your kit arrives.
When your kit arrives, take take these measurements (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH and CYA). Post your numbers on this forum.
Return (if you can) any chemicals you got from the pool store. All you need to maintain your pool is Chlorine & CYA (stabilizer). Muriatic Acid and Borax to manage PH on a periodic basis as needed.
As you wait for your kit to arrive, add about a half a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine until you get your kit. That will add close to 5 ppm FC per day. Brush the walls of your pool and the area where your ladder(s) is. Scoop out as much junk (if you have any) from the surface of your pool as well the bottom. Let your pump run 24 hours and keep adding 5ppm of chlorine every day until your kit arrives.
When your kit arrives, take take these measurements (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH and CYA). Post your numbers on this forum.
Return (if you can) any chemicals you got from the pool store. All you need to maintain your pool is Chlorine & CYA (stabilizer). Muriatic Acid and Borax to manage PH on a periodic basis as needed.
Re: Using bleach
Ok, I was so excited when I saw the mailman walking up with my package while I'm on the pool deck. I've been fighting a green pool for over a week now and have been using the pool company machines and chemicals. The owner is very nice and I have nothing to bash him for (ok, maybe the fact he sold me calcium for an above ground pool) but I knew calcium wasn't a big deal but I bought it anyway. I've been fighting a bad case of algae and finally after a lot of fighting and a lot of money I bought the poollife back to blue kit where you double shock it basically and vacuum to waste the algae at the bottom of the pool. SO it's blue today but very cloudy, I can barely make out the bottom drains and I'm not 100% sure all the algae is gone. So I took a water sample to the pool store this morning. These are the readings they gave me;
FC 3.26
CC .6
pH 8.1
TA 97
CYA 13
So when my kit showed up right after I got back I thought it would be so cool to check it out and see what my readings were. First of all, I hate all of these kits. It's all subjective from my point of view. (i.e. - add drops until water turns red...Red? what about pink, light pink, dark pink what? It never turned red so that's very confusing. They said the CYA was subjective, geez it all was. But my CYA ranged anywhere from 30 to under 20 maybe around 15 according to the 3 tests I ran. Wow, that's a big variance. Also, my numbers were nothing, I mean nothing, like the pool store. My numbers were:
FC 10
CC don't know how to do that
pH just ran off the small blue kit that give you which I already have and it's still a guess still anywhere from 7.8 - 8.2
TA 130
CYA 25
stirring those little viles are greatly difficult. Like do I have to stir the whole time or in between drops? I've read the directions but I'm still very confused. I really want to nail this thing so I can confidently control my pool daily. I could really use some help. The videos on youtube are for a different chemistry set so I'm not sure about that. Please help!
Ok, I was so excited when I saw the mailman walking up with my package while I'm on the pool deck. I've been fighting a green pool for over a week now and have been using the pool company machines and chemicals. The owner is very nice and I have nothing to bash him for (ok, maybe the fact he sold me calcium for an above ground pool) but I knew calcium wasn't a big deal but I bought it anyway. I've been fighting a bad case of algae and finally after a lot of fighting and a lot of money I bought the poollife back to blue kit where you double shock it basically and vacuum to waste the algae at the bottom of the pool. SO it's blue today but very cloudy, I can barely make out the bottom drains and I'm not 100% sure all the algae is gone. So I took a water sample to the pool store this morning. These are the readings they gave me;
FC 3.26
CC .6
pH 8.1
TA 97
CYA 13
So when my kit showed up right after I got back I thought it would be so cool to check it out and see what my readings were. First of all, I hate all of these kits. It's all subjective from my point of view. (i.e. - add drops until water turns red...Red? what about pink, light pink, dark pink what? It never turned red so that's very confusing. They said the CYA was subjective, geez it all was. But my CYA ranged anywhere from 30 to under 20 maybe around 15 according to the 3 tests I ran. Wow, that's a big variance. Also, my numbers were nothing, I mean nothing, like the pool store. My numbers were:
FC 10
CC don't know how to do that
pH just ran off the small blue kit that give you which I already have and it's still a guess still anywhere from 7.8 - 8.2
TA 130
CYA 25
stirring those little viles are greatly difficult. Like do I have to stir the whole time or in between drops? I've read the directions but I'm still very confused. I really want to nail this thing so I can confidently control my pool daily. I could really use some help. The videos on youtube are for a different chemistry set so I'm not sure about that. Please help!
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,100
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Re: Using bleach
Your tests are not that different then the pool store, other then FC.
CYA testing is not that precise. You round up so anything between 20 and 30 you call it 30.
PH between 7.8 and 8.2 is at the high end of the range. Thats all you need to know.
So knock down your PH a bit. Dont worry about your TA. Its ok.
Your CYA is right where you want it for the SLAM you will need to do. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Did you do the FC test a few times to see that your tesults are repeatable?
Chlorine Drop test - If you need to......1) measure Chlorine levels accurately or 2) higher than 5ppm or 3) test for Combined Chloramines…perform the Chlorine Drop Test. (FAS/DPD)
1. Rinse and fill the “Chlorine only” graduated cylinder to the 10mL mark
2. Add ONE heaping scoop of the R-870 powder and swirl to mix. (It may not all dissolve….don’t worry) The solution will turn pink. (unless you have no chlorine)
3. Next, carefully add R-871 solution one drop at a time. Count each drop and swirl until the solution turns back to clear. Multiply the number of drops you added times .5 (14 drops X .5 = 7ppm)
4. Record your results as FC (free chlorine)
5. To test for Combined Chloramines, add 5 drops of R-0003 to the solution and swirl. If it remains clear, you have no CC’s. If it returns back to pink, add R-0871 as before, counting and swirling between each drop. Once the solution returns clear, multiply the added drops times .5 again…..this will be your CC reading. Record it. The total of FC and CC should be recorded as TC (total chlorine)
Your tests are not that different then the pool store, other then FC.
CYA testing is not that precise. You round up so anything between 20 and 30 you call it 30.
PH between 7.8 and 8.2 is at the high end of the range. Thats all you need to know.
So knock down your PH a bit. Dont worry about your TA. Its ok.
Your CYA is right where you want it for the SLAM you will need to do. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Did you do the FC test a few times to see that your tesults are repeatable?
Chlorine Drop test - If you need to......1) measure Chlorine levels accurately or 2) higher than 5ppm or 3) test for Combined Chloramines…perform the Chlorine Drop Test. (FAS/DPD)
1. Rinse and fill the “Chlorine only” graduated cylinder to the 10mL mark
2. Add ONE heaping scoop of the R-870 powder and swirl to mix. (It may not all dissolve….don’t worry) The solution will turn pink. (unless you have no chlorine)
3. Next, carefully add R-871 solution one drop at a time. Count each drop and swirl until the solution turns back to clear. Multiply the number of drops you added times .5 (14 drops X .5 = 7ppm)
4. Record your results as FC (free chlorine)
5. To test for Combined Chloramines, add 5 drops of R-0003 to the solution and swirl. If it remains clear, you have no CC’s. If it returns back to pink, add R-0871 as before, counting and swirling between each drop. Once the solution returns clear, multiply the added drops times .5 again…..this will be your CC reading. Record it. The total of FC and CC should be recorded as TC (total chlorine)
Re: Using bleach
Yes I did all of the test a couple of times just to make sure I was getting the same thing. I did put 1 1/2 gallons of Great Value 6% bleach in last night. I didn't know what my chlorine level was as all I had was the k1000 kit and it showed my chlorine over 5 ppm and I knew with algae I would need to run it high so without a true test kit I was pretty much reading other posts and guessing as to what I thought I would need. I knew at one time my CYA had been 37 before I dumped half my pool vacuuming to waste so I was guessing somewhere around 10 ppm FC and I was surprised when the pool company came with such a low number but I also thought maybe the algae had eaten it overnight. I think 10 FC is more accurate.
Yes I did all of the test a couple of times just to make sure I was getting the same thing. I did put 1 1/2 gallons of Great Value 6% bleach in last night. I didn't know what my chlorine level was as all I had was the k1000 kit and it showed my chlorine over 5 ppm and I knew with algae I would need to run it high so without a true test kit I was pretty much reading other posts and guessing as to what I thought I would need. I knew at one time my CYA had been 37 before I dumped half my pool vacuuming to waste so I was guessing somewhere around 10 ppm FC and I was surprised when the pool company came with such a low number but I also thought maybe the algae had eaten it overnight. I think 10 FC is more accurate.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,100
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Re: Using bleach
With a CYA of 30 your SLAM FC is 12. So add a bit more CL to get it there. Keep it there until your pool clears and you pass the OCLT.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Algae does not eat CYA. Ammonia does.
With a CYA of 30 your SLAM FC is 12. So add a bit more CL to get it there. Keep it there until your pool clears and you pass the OCLT.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Algae does not eat CYA. Ammonia does.
Re: Using bleach
The TF 100 pool kit is actually dead simple. They give you an instruction sheet, which clearly describes in a very easy to understand way on how to do each test.
I can run the full suite of tests in about 10 min, taking time to make sure I don't get water in places where I shouldn't and to make sure my measurements are
as accurate as I can get them. For example, if it says put 10ml of water into the chlorine only cylinder... I make sure it's right on the money or as close as possible.
Practice a little bit, and make sure your doing your tests indoors with good lighting. The only one that I really feel is subjective would be the CYA test, but it's not
critical that you get a critically accurate reading. 25ppm is close enough to 30ppm for government work when it comes to CYA.
I find the red and blue colors your looking for are nice and dark... the red does turn a bit pink right before it kicks over to red. Usually for me, it's another drop or two
past "pink" to get to red. You'll see a pronounced difference in the light pink "hue" in the water to when the water turns a much darker shade of "red". Looking for the
specific color you believe to be red probably isn't the best way IMO.
I've only had the test kit since the start of last pool season, but my water has pretty much always been nice and clear. Never any issues with any kind of algae in the pool
The TF 100 pool kit is actually dead simple. They give you an instruction sheet, which clearly describes in a very easy to understand way on how to do each test.
I can run the full suite of tests in about 10 min, taking time to make sure I don't get water in places where I shouldn't and to make sure my measurements are
as accurate as I can get them. For example, if it says put 10ml of water into the chlorine only cylinder... I make sure it's right on the money or as close as possible.
Practice a little bit, and make sure your doing your tests indoors with good lighting. The only one that I really feel is subjective would be the CYA test, but it's not
critical that you get a critically accurate reading. 25ppm is close enough to 30ppm for government work when it comes to CYA.
I find the red and blue colors your looking for are nice and dark... the red does turn a bit pink right before it kicks over to red. Usually for me, it's another drop or two
past "pink" to get to red. You'll see a pronounced difference in the light pink "hue" in the water to when the water turns a much darker shade of "red". Looking for the
specific color you believe to be red probably isn't the best way IMO.
I've only had the test kit since the start of last pool season, but my water has pretty much always been nice and clear. Never any issues with any kind of algae in the pool
- Jul 4, 2012
- 749
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Re: Using bleach
You'll get the hang of it after a few runs. Yes, swirl after every drop so it mixes in, or get a speed stir. They are worth it.
For the color change to red, focus on when the color stops changing rather than the color itself. In other words once you add a drop and the color does not change at all, the test is done and don't count that last drop.
Also note that chlorine over 10 causes the ph to read falsely high.
Redo that chlorine test and see what you get, you need to finish the SLAM process.
You'll get the hang of it after a few runs. Yes, swirl after every drop so it mixes in, or get a speed stir. They are worth it.
For the color change to red, focus on when the color stops changing rather than the color itself. In other words once you add a drop and the color does not change at all, the test is done and don't count that last drop.
Also note that chlorine over 10 causes the ph to read falsely high.
Redo that chlorine test and see what you get, you need to finish the SLAM process.
Re: Using bleach
Thanks for everything and all the advice. I've gone back and ranmy CYA again tonight and got the same reading as this morningso I feel confident I got a pretty accurate reading. It's been 20 and 30 so I ran it up to 30 and added bleach because when iI tested FC it had gone down to 7.5 so I had to add more bleach to up it 12 ppm. I think I'll get the hang on it. All the advice is so helpful. I'm glad I found this group.
Thanks for everything and all the advice. I've gone back and ranmy CYA again tonight and got the same reading as this morningso I feel confident I got a pretty accurate reading. It's been 20 and 30 so I ran it up to 30 and added bleach because when iI tested FC it had gone down to 7.5 so I had to add more bleach to up it 12 ppm. I think I'll get the hang on it. All the advice is so helpful. I'm glad I found this group.
Re: Using bleach
As was said above, the color itself is subjective, but that’s not important. What’s important is the change. Add drops until the last drop produces no further changes in the color, subtract that drop from your count.
Id highly recommend investing in a SpeedStir. Makes testing loads easier. I swirled for a couple days when mine needed batteries and the house was out of double As, never again.
Tftest kits has some youtube videos videos of the tests being performed that may help to clear up any confusion
As was said above, the color itself is subjective, but that’s not important. What’s important is the change. Add drops until the last drop produces no further changes in the color, subtract that drop from your count.
Id highly recommend investing in a SpeedStir. Makes testing loads easier. I swirled for a couple days when mine needed batteries and the house was out of double As, never again.
Tftest kits has some youtube videos videos of the tests being performed that may help to clear up any confusion
Re: Using bleach
I ended up doing the back to blue and well it got it blue but not clear. (I lost half my pool vacuuming to waste and so I knew my alkalinity was down. So Mendy48, I went and bought 12 pounds on baking soda at Dollar General for 8.00 and I would have paid 18.00 for a 12 pound bucket of alkalinity at the pool store. That made me so happy and proud) I took my water to the pool store for a reading on Saturday the 7th. He said he would sell me a bottle of clarifier if I wanted it. I told him I would just wait for it to clear on it's on. I asked him if he would just clear up on it's own, he said yes. I didn't think that was right but I knew my kit was on it's way and I would do it myself. Sure enough while I was working on my pool, my kit showed up and I took readings. I posted it to another thread where the readings confused me but after a few days now I"m getting a little better but I'm far from understanding. I do know this, there is still algae in my pool and I'm slamming it. I'm not able to keep up with it like I should but I have to work. I cleaned the stairs last night and the mat underneath it was completely green. I took it out and washed it with detergent and wiped everything down. I vacuumed yesterday and today and today I swept the side walls and the floor. I did my readings tonight, my CYA is 25 so my FC is about 10. I read it this evening when I got home and my FC was down to 5. According to the pool math it told me to add one gallon of 8.25% to my 17000 gal pool. Which I did. I'll check it again tonight and add anything I still need. I can't wait until it's clear again. Should I be worried about the CC right now? I'm working to maintain the FC at SLAM level and the water isn't clear. I would think once the water clears then I should focus on CC and the overnight loss issue. We're having a big swim party here on the 28th and I want it crystal clear by then.
I ended up doing the back to blue and well it got it blue but not clear. (I lost half my pool vacuuming to waste and so I knew my alkalinity was down. So Mendy48, I went and bought 12 pounds on baking soda at Dollar General for 8.00 and I would have paid 18.00 for a 12 pound bucket of alkalinity at the pool store. That made me so happy and proud) I took my water to the pool store for a reading on Saturday the 7th. He said he would sell me a bottle of clarifier if I wanted it. I told him I would just wait for it to clear on it's on. I asked him if he would just clear up on it's own, he said yes. I didn't think that was right but I knew my kit was on it's way and I would do it myself. Sure enough while I was working on my pool, my kit showed up and I took readings. I posted it to another thread where the readings confused me but after a few days now I"m getting a little better but I'm far from understanding. I do know this, there is still algae in my pool and I'm slamming it. I'm not able to keep up with it like I should but I have to work. I cleaned the stairs last night and the mat underneath it was completely green. I took it out and washed it with detergent and wiped everything down. I vacuumed yesterday and today and today I swept the side walls and the floor. I did my readings tonight, my CYA is 25 so my FC is about 10. I read it this evening when I got home and my FC was down to 5. According to the pool math it told me to add one gallon of 8.25% to my 17000 gal pool. Which I did. I'll check it again tonight and add anything I still need. I can't wait until it's clear again. Should I be worried about the CC right now? I'm working to maintain the FC at SLAM level and the water isn't clear. I would think once the water clears then I should focus on CC and the overnight loss issue. We're having a big swim party here on the 28th and I want it crystal clear by then.