Unable to Kill Algae and Clear Pool

Jul 3, 2018
5
Howell, NJ
Hello All,

When I purchased my house two years ago, I also got with it a ~14k gallon above ground pool that I have yet to clear up with the exception of one week where I had the water crystal clear. In the entire two years I've had the house, I've only been able to actually enjoy the pool maybe 2-3 times and have spent hundreds of dollars on chemicals that do not seem to really do much of anything. Below is the pool in its current state:

20180703_092754.jpg20180703_092759.jpg



I have been to every pool store in the area and have been told that the chemical balance has been right where it needs to be and have just recommended shocking until blue or to clean my filter. I have taken this advice and currently shock the pool every 2-3 days and replaced the sand in my filter as of yesterday. I've attached two readings from two separate stores below:

Taken 7/3:
Free Chlorine: 3.02
Total Chlorine: 3.35
Combined Chlorine: .33
pH: 8.1 (when I tested at home using a dip strip and drop test I got ~7.6, so I'm not sure where they got this one.)
Hardness: 228
Alkalinity: 113
CYA: 55
Copper: .1
Iron : 0
Phosphate: 276

Taken 7/2
Free Chlorine: 7.5
Total Chlorine: 7.5
Combined Chlorine: N/A
pH: 7.4
Hardness: 250
Alkalinity: 140
CYA: 41
Copper: 0
Iron : 0
Phosphate: 300

To combat the algae, I purchased a 60% algaecide at the recommendation of the store employee and have introduced 32oz of the product around the pool. In addition to this, I also introduced ~2/3 cups of pH minus to bring the pH down (in the event that my tests are incorrect and theirs is more accurate). I'm nearing the point where I just close the pool for good and/or remove it from my house entirely, however I feel that if I gave up now, it would be a tremendous waste of the time, effort and ultimately money that I've invested in the pool. Should I shock the pool to nearly nuclear levels? Should I flock and vaccuum? should I just drain the pool entirely and start all over again? Any advice you might have on the topic would be extremely beneficial.

Thanks for your time, all!
 
I have been to every pool store in the area and have been told that the chemical balance has been right where it needs to be and have just recommended shocking until blue or to clean my filter. I have taken this advice and currently shock the pool every 2-3 days and replaced the sand in my filter as of yesterday.

This ^^^^^ is what is going wrong with your pool :( The pool store loves your wallet but not your pool.

I am going to share this thread with you: Foreclosure swamp and errant pool service? You can see it is an older thread (2012). You will see she even hired people to help clear the pool. THEN she found TFP!!!!

There two things you need to get to clear this pool:

1. A good test kit of your own! Look in my siggy below for the one you need. You will need the XL one to make sure you have enough regents.

2. Chlorine!!! Does your pool store sell liquid chlorine? You might have to put down a deposit on the jugs but it will be worth it to not have to deal will empty jugs.

If you get these two things we CAN get your pool clean and clear AND teach you how to keep it that way!!!! I spend maybe $50 a month on chlorine to keep my pool clear!!! That is just on chlorine!

Let me know if you are on board and I can get you started on clearing your pool until the test kit gets there to fine tune it.

Kim:kim:
 
Welcome. Congrats on finding the site.

The first step you want to take is to avoid the pool stores. Their testing is inconsistent at best and goal is to sell you stuff you, in all likelihood, do not need.
Step 2: Toss the test strips
Step 3: Order your own full service test kit. There is a link in my signature for the Cadillac (TF-100).
Step 4: Read through Pool School while waiting for your kit to arrive.
Step 5 test and post a full panel of test results (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, and CYA).
 
Thanks for the Reply, Kim!

My pool store does sell liquid chlorine in the method described. I was considering this approach, however I attempted this last year and found that the chlorine was just being eaten up with no end result so I avoided it this time around in favor of granulated chlorine. I feel like the CYA was my issue last year which could explain why it was so prone to failing. If that's the suggested approach, I can pick up the jug and introduce it once the sun lets up.

Regarding the TF-100, It's a very pricey test kit and I'm moreso inclined to just drive down the street to the pool store to have them test my water out using their in-house kits to save the $80. I did see that Taylor also makes a more watered-down version of the kit in the K-1004 . Would this be an acceptable alternative?
 
Thanks for the Reply, Kim!

My pool store does sell liquid chlorine in the method described. I was considering this approach, however I attempted this last year and found that the chlorine was just being eaten up with no end result so I avoided it this time around in favor of granulated chlorine. I feel like the CYA was my issue last year which could explain why it was so prone to failing. If that's the suggested approach, I can pick up the jug and introduce it once the sun lets up.

Regarding the TF-100, It's a very pricey test kit and I'm moreso inclined to just drive down the street to the pool store to have them test my water out using their in-house kits to save the $80. I did see that Taylor also makes a more watered-down version of the kit in the K-1004 . Would this be an acceptable alternative?

If you keep your test kit indoors, the reagents will last you at least 2 seasons, especially with the XL version, which I think you need.

Stop using granular products, and pool stores can not accurately test your water, especially CYA, indoors, via computer.

Use only liquid chlorine to shock. Algaecide is a preventative - Chlorine kills algae. When you add the proper amount, it kills it very quickly. You need to follow the steps for a SLAM, it will take more than "a jug". The process works, but you have to follow the steps.
 
You will use up all of the regents in that baby kit fast. That is why I said to get the XL one. I know it it a lot but what was your bill the last time you walked out of the pool store?

As for last year, it sounds like you were not able to get on top of the algae and stuff in the pool. It will be a WAR for a couple of days. You will have to be home babysitting the pool for the first day. Testing and adding chlorine every hour or two to start with :(

Kim:kim:
 
I would suggest adding 1 and 1/2 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine each evening. Be sure to run the pump for at least 30 minutes after adding.

When you get your kit, post up the results.

Take care.
 
Adding to what Marty said, it might not be a bad idea to run your filter on recirculate till you kill off the algae and your test kit arrives to avoid plugging your filter a lot and having to backwash frequently.

Good Luck !!!
 

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Also brush the pool often. It keeps it stirred up so the filter can take out more stuff.
You can run it on recirculate at night or when you can't be there to monitor the pressure if you're worried the pressure might rise too quickly but it's more beneficial to be filtering the algae out as much as possible.
You will get a feel for how long it takes for the pressure to rise as you're doing your SLAM and can chose to filter or recirculate accordingly.

.
 
SWEET! Do as Marty says until the test kit gets there. Did you see the videos for the tests? If not here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

Here are some extra tips for the tests as well: Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions

Now my tips:

pH-make sure to have good lighting. I do mine over the stove as my hood has a 60 watt bulb in it. I hold a white plate behind it to help me make the color match

-CYA-GLANCE!!! Mix the CYA test up first and let it sit while you do the other tests. When you do the test pour the mixture to the first line (100) GLANCE in then look away. If you still see the dot then pour to the next line, GLANCE in....keep going line by line until you can't see the don't see the dot at a GLANCE. If you "look" for the dot you will end up seeing it.

Kim:kim:
 
Hey All,

My Kit came in, results below:

FC: 0
CC: 0
PH: 8.4 (will be addressing as my first step to bring it to 7.2-7.4
CYA: 65
CH: 250
ALKY: 120

So I would assume my obvious first step is to get the PH back down to a normal range. Following this step, what would be the next recommendation?

Thanks again for your help, everyone!
 
Regarding the chlorine to use when it comes time to SLAM, are there any recommended approaches as to what type of chlorine/bleach to use? I've read earlier that I should avoid granular chlorine so I will be leaning towards liquid this time around. I've read that you can use standard house bleach (chlorox or equivalent). Is this an acceptable route or should I be buying the large jug of bleach from my local pool supply store?
 
The large jug of pure bleach is most economical in my opinion. No bottles to recycle just keep getting refills. And because you will have a lot of potent bleach you won’t be lugging many bottles all around (and getting weird stares at the super market!). Good luck-you won’t be sorry you found TFP and the Pool Math.
 
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