TX Freeze - Jandy valve in awkward spot, suggestions?

[ChristiK]

TLDR:
Question 1 - where should I cut to put in the replacement jandy valve?
Question 2 - Do I need to replace my filter housing?
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Another Texas freeze victim here. I managed to get the drain plugs out of the pumps and filter when the power went out and before things froze. It seems like we managed to get away with one crack in a Jandy valve. Note, the previous pool guy labeled this valve “water feature” when in actuality it is the return to the bottom of the spa that initiates the over flow/cascade into the pool when in “pool” mode. I actually think this might just be an expansion of a crack that was already there as I’ve had issues with the pump loosing prime when off and the sound is the same as it was before the freeze, just bigger/louder. I think the crack was so small before that I just couldn’t locate it.

Is this the right part? Amazon.com : Jandy 4724 2-Port 1-1/2 to 2-Inch Positive Seal NeverLube Valve : Swimming Pool Filter Valves : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Jandy 7235 180-Dgree, 1-1/2-Inch to 2-Inch Check Valve: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: Jandy 7235 180-Dgree, 1-1/2-Inch to 2-Inch Check Valve: Garden & Outdoor

smile.amazon.com

My problem is this valve is in a very awkward place to fix. Any recommendations on the best places to cut to fit in a new one?

If it helps I don’t think we use the automatic In-Line Chlorine/Bromine Feeder. At least I’ve never touched it before. We have a saltwater pool and in the winter when the salt/chlorine converter is not working I just use bleach. Should I just remove it from the system to give myself more room to work with?

If I need to replace the Jandy valve AND the check valve since they are plumed so close together I will. I’m not seeing a way around that at this point.

Any creative suggestions?

While I’m at it; the seepage around the middle of the DE filter has been there awhile. I have replaced and lubed that gasket and the seepage remains. I think the filter is original which would make it 14 years old. I replaced the grids last year. Is there any easy way to fix that or do I need to look into replacing the whole filter housing while I’m out there working with the pipes?

 

[ChristiK]

Adding pipe size pics. One is above the branch in question to show the outer diameter of the jandy part and one is on the lower half of that branch to show the inner diameter.

 

[Roperjoe]

I have the same issue!

 

[ChristiK]

Thinking through my plan of attack. Is it crazy to try an epoxy weld before cutting into any pipes? If it doesn’t hold what have I lost? If it does hold then I’ve saved myself a LOT of work.

 

[ajw22]

Thinking through my plan of attack. Is it crazy to try an epoxy weld before cutting into any pipes? If it doesn’t hold what have I lost? If it does hold then I’ve saved myself a LOT of work.

If it does not hold and let’s go late one night you can have a big mess and damage by the time you discover it.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

It will not be easy to fix the problem you have..

Every time you touch one item, it effects the item next to it.. Where do you stop???

In my mind the problem with epoxy is that it won't work well from the outside and adding it to the inside of the valve body might screw up where the diverter needs to turn. It would really depend on where the crack was. It is something that I would try as a stop gap measure to get things running again.

To add PVC plumbing or valves, you have to be able to pull the pipes apart far enough to add the valve and then have everything squeeze back together.. I just don't see that happening without some rearrangement of the pipes. Also, several of your pipes have zero room to make any cuts. Removal of the tab feeder would have to happen.

They do make a "drill bit" kind of device that allows you to drill out a 2" pipe that is inside a valve body or connector.. They also have one for 1.5" pipe. They are called Hub Savers...

I don't believe that I can adequately explain what I think needs to be done, but will try to come up with a crud drawing that should do the trick.. But not something I can do tonight.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

They do make a "drill bit" kind of device that allows you to drill out a 2" pipe that is inside a valve body or connector.. They also have one for 1.5" pipe. They are called Hub Savers...

PVC fitting savers, PVC/ABS fitting reamers, socket saving RamBit and Pipe Hog® for PVC plastics

The plastic socket saving perfect tools for reusing old pvc fittings.

www.plumbingsupply.com

JONES STEPHENS 1-1/2 in. Socket Saver Tool for Removeing Plastic Pipe from a Hub J44150 - The Home Depot

Jones Stephens' socket savers are designed to make plumbing fitting repairs simple and cost effective. The tool removes plastic pipe from a hub allowing the fitting to be reused and ready for solvent welding a new connection. Perfect in a situation where there is a broken pipe! Suitable for use...

www.homedepot.com

https://pascospecialty.com/catalog/PASCO_CATALOG_C.pdf

 

[markayash]

I am afraid it would be easier to replace that whole section. Down side if you have to buy more valves

 

[ajw22]

Let’s see what @Jimrahbe comes up with. If you can get the hub saver I would try cutting at the red lines and drilling out the hubs on the left and right.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

There may be other ways to fix this, but this is what I would do.. (Ref diagram)

1. Cut to the left of the tab feeder right up against the adapter on the Return valve.. (Right where Allen has his red line.)
2. Cut below your check valve, again at Allen's red line.
3. Cut above the words Pool Return right at the top of the adapter.
4. Use a 2" Hub saver and remove the pipe inside the adapter next to the Return valve
5. Use a 2" Hub saver and remove the pipe inside the adapter marked Pool Return.
6. Glue in a 2" 90 degree at the Return Valve
7. Glue in the new check valve
8. Glue in the new 2-way valve
9. Build the new manifold so that it fits over the three open connections. Glue up the manifold but do not connect to the open pipes.
10. Glue all three open connections and then drop manifold into place.



Thanks,

Jim R.