Turnover to filter?

snuggles

Bronze Supporter
Jul 23, 2024
23
Boston
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have a question regarding turnovers and that pinned link: what about my filter? They don’t list filtration in that post as one of the main reasons to run the pump, which surprises me.

I assumed that doing some number of turnovers (even if that number is less than one) per day, would at least provide some filtration of suspended particles, but if it doesn’t why have a DE filter? Why not just sand or even no filter?
 
S,

Filters are there to capture the stuff that falls into your pool and floats.. It is not there, as many assume, to prevent you from getting algae.

Generally, if you run your pump, long enough to skim well, and/or generate the amount of chlorine your pool needs, you will filter plenty of water..

Our point is that we have a lot of new people that specifically 'worry' about turnovers and run their pump much longer, or faster, than they need for no real reason.

We do not care if you want to run 100 turnovers a day, that is up to you.. We just want everyone to know that they do not have to meet some magic turnover number to have a clear and sanitized pool.

As far as DE filters... I have switched over to cartridge filters and I will never, ever have a DE filter again... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Hi Jim, thank you. I did more careful reading on tfp (sorry I didn’t do it before I posted above) and I have a better sense of what you are describing.

This probably requires me to think a bit about how I run my pool, but I -think- I’ll just turn off the pump during the day when the noise is bothersome to me. Then I’ll run it at minimum speed to effectively skim at night, and use a 30m quick clean whenever I add my chems.

I got one of those quad de pentairs that use catridges to hold the DE. Trying to change my old-style de grids earlier this summer told me I was not going to continue with THAT BS for long 👍. Hoping this new setup works out. We’ll see!

Regards
 
’ll just turn off the pump during the day when the noise is bothersome to me
S,

Not sure what pump you have, but my IntelliFlo runs 24/7 at 1200 RPM, most of the time.. At that speed I have to touch the pump, just to make sure it is still running.. :mrgreen: I have no heater, and a large cartridge filter, so not a lot of backpressure.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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S,

Not sure what pump you have, but my IntelliFlo runs 24/7 at 1200 RPM, most of the time.. At that speed I have to touch the pump, just to make sure it is still running.. :mrgreen: I have no heater, and a large cartridge filter, so not a lot of backpressure.

Thanks,

Jim R.
So I actually have another thread I just posted about my new superflo vs that I -think- may have bad bearings or something, because it generates a high-pitched whine that increases with speed, and is audible at anything over 800 rpm from 30 feet+ away.


I included a link to a video, since I know people's tolerance for noise is different, but certainly I think you will agree this is nowhere near silent. I get a distinct squawk when the pump turns on/off as well, which makes me suspect bearings but I have very little (ok zero) experience with these things so... yeah. Any advice very welcome. It was installed last week by a leslies guy, so it's well within warrantee and I'm going to call them asap, but wanted to check in with this site so I have my expectations set correctly.

Thanks again!
 
S,

They need to come back and replace it... Something is wrong.

Keep in mind that the larger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. There is no such thing as a VS pump that is too large... :mrgreen: This is why I don't normally recommend 1.5 HP pumps.. Will they work... yes they will... but 3 HP pumps work better, in my opinion.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I have a question regarding turnovers and that pinned link: what about my filter? They don’t list filtration in that post as one of the main reasons to run the pump, which surprises me.

I assumed that doing some number of turnovers (even if that number is less than one) per day, would at least provide some filtration of suspended particles, but if it doesn’t why have a DE filter? Why not just sand or even no filter?
Pool chemicals, especially chlorine, react on the molecular level and with virtually everything it comes into contact with. When it does this is gets "used up." The less "stuff" in the water, at the micron level that filters remove, the longer the chemicals, especially chlorine, are available to do their job of sanitizing, oxidizing, algae-control, the less that has to be added.
You can take a very "green" pool, pour in 50 gallons of chlorine and soon have a "white" pool. But the algae will still be in the water. First you had live algae, now you have dead alge, but it is still there.
It can be removed by a). filtration, takes a while and requires a lot of filter cleanings/backwashes, b). draining the pool and refilling, c). the proper organic flocculant, allowing it to settle, vacuuming to waste, a very slow and messy process.
Or keep the chemicals balanced and filter the pool properly. It doesn't take much work or chemical cost to do it that way. Don't filter and the costs, in money and manpower, can get overwhelming.
 
Last edited:
S,

They need to come back and replace it... Something is wrong.

Keep in mind that the larger the pump, the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water.. There is no such thing as a VS pump that is too large... :mrgreen: This is why I don't normally recommend 1.5 HP pumps.. Will they work... yes they will... but 3 HP pumps work better, in my opinion.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Yeah, I thought so, but very much appreciate the confirmation--thank you!

I did consider the larger pumps but basically the wife has had enough of the spending on this pool We actually weren't even looking for a house with a pool--this just came with the house we wanted. It's been an expensive learning experience, and she is done with it. The cost difference in power for the bigger pumps is an argument I failed to make compelling enough...
Pool chemicals, especially chlorine, react on the molecular level and with virtually everything it comes into contact with. When it does this is gets "used up." The less "stuff" in the water, at the micron level that filters remove, the longer the chemicals, especially chlorine, are available to do their job of sanitizing, oxidizing, algae-control, the less that has to be added.
You can take a very "green" pool, pour in 50 gallons of chlorine and soon have a "white" pool. But the algae will still be in the water. First you had live algae, now you have dead alge, but it is still there.
It can be removed by a). filtration, takes a while and requires a lot of filter cleanings/backwashes, b). draining the pool and refilling, c). the proper organic flocculant, allowing it to settle, vacuuming to waste, a very slow and messy process.
Or keep the chemicals balanced and filter the pool properly. It doesn't take much work or chemical cost to do it that way. Don't filter and the costs, in money and manpower, can get overwhelming.
This is great! I am sure if I had done more careful reading on this site I would have gotten this eventually, but I appreciate your breakdown here. I do feel better that I got the best filter I could, since hopefully that reduces chems and makes the maintenance less finicky.
Thanks! This was actually in reference to that pinned post, but I see now I didn't actually LINK to it, which was an error on my part.
 
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