Trouble with Sundance spa- FLO error and heating issues

Hello, I emptied the jacuzzi, when I fill it I will tell you what you said, a question, what is this for? and wanted to know if I have to buy a filter adapter for the filter to fit in the Jacuzzi or not?
 

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That is the hook that holds down the back of the filter. You should not need to buy it unless yours is broken.
On the filter inlet pipe there is a big nut that screws toward the spa wall to release the filter edge from under the hook, then back to tighten it in.
 
Hello friend, I did not understanded what you said, sorry. But this is where my filter goes, I when to home depot to buy something to adapter the filter because I did not know if I bought the wrong filter or a part was missing. So I put my brain to work to see how I can put this filter without having to return it
 

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Oh, thats odd. The specs say you have a different filter. That filter should have a hole in one end and a raised edge arond the hole at the other. The hole goes onto the pipe that your hose is in, the raised ridge pushes back to the other side with the grate and tightens in with the white rounded nut on the pipe just barely in the pic. No wonder you are having trouble finding the right one! I am pretty busy today, but I will find the one you need and post a link tomorrow.
 
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Solid flo means the computer is reading a closed flow switch when the pump is turned off, which means it cannot trust the reading and will shut down for safety reasons. Flashing flo means it is reading open when the pump is turned on, which will only disable the heater. You really need to test the flow switch. Can ypu post a pic of the new switch?
 
Good, it's clear. I can't tell for sure, but it looks closed. Inside the tee you should see a stem on the right and a round magnet on a sliver of metal on the left. Is the magnet touching the stem? It should be about 1/2" away. If it is touching, it is closed. If the pump is not on and it is closed, you get a solid flo error. Did you install it into the tee yourself, or did it come already in it? Try backing it out 1 full turn.
 
Hello friend, I have a question. There is a way to know where the jacuzzi is liquing or the water is coming out. I fixed something and after that I found something else. I think the water is coming out somewhere, there is a way to fix without known where is or I have look where is it?

Thank you.
 

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Best to find the leak. Most leaks are in the equipment (pump seal, o-rings, etc.). Light fittings are prone to cracking. Ozone check valves go bad. So check the equipment area thoroughly. Check for wet spots on the ground while running, then turn it off for a few days and see if it dries up, which will eliminate half of the other possibilities. But remember, the last thing they do when building one is cover the bottom in plastic, so where you see the water is not necessarily where the leak is at.
They make "fix-a-leak" products that you just pour in, but those are a temporary band-aid at best and may not work at all depending on the leak. The only guarantee is a big cleanup job after you use it.
Why do you think you have a leak?
Did you get the flo issue sorted out?
 
Hello friend, I found the leak, the problem is that I do not know how to fix it because the hose where it is very short and I do not know whether to cut it or what to do, because it is glued with PVC and I have no idea how to remove the PVC without cutting it. Can you give me some idea please.
 

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Best to find the leak. Most leaks are in the equipment (pump seal, o-rings, etc.). Light fittings are prone to cracking. Ozone check valves go bad. So check the equipment area thoroughly. Check for wet spots on the ground while running, then turn it off for a few days and see if it dries up, which will eliminate half of the other possibilities. But remember, the last thing they do when building one is cover the bottom in plastic, so where you see the water is not necessarily where the leak is at.
They make "fix-a-leak" products that you just pour in, but those are a temporary band-aid at best and may not work at all depending on the leak. The only guarantee is a big cleanup job after you use it.
Why do you think you have a leak?
Did you get the flo issue sorted out?
Hello friend, I found the leak, but I do not how to fix it because The hose where it is very short and I do not know whether to cut it or what to do, because it is glued with PVC and I have no idea how to remove the PVC without cutting it. can you give me some idea please
 
Wow. Did you have your pump on when you slathered that christy's blue glue on there?
You have a 2" 45 degree pump union, a 2"S x 1/2"fpt tee, a 2"S x 1/2"S tee, a 45 degree elbow, and some 2" pipe between each. You will also need a 1/2"mpt x 3/8" barb elbow and a 1/2" ST elbow and a 1/2" coupling and a piece of 1/2" pipe. All but the union are available at a plumbing supply or can be built from parts from home depot.
Here is the union.
That is quite a project for someone inexperienced. You might want to call a pro. The key to any plumbing repair is surface preparation of the old pipe, so sand it good to remove spray foam residue, wipe it, glue it, and be sure you get a good twist while pushing it together or it will probably leak. Do not use a separate primer on flex hose. It will be much easier to get to if you remove the pump to work on it.
 
If the circ pump is buzzing and hot to the touch most likely it is the culprit. If you can remove the equipment access panels, locate the flow switch to see if it is in the closed position or even moving/fluctuating. The circ pumps are fairly expensive at about $175-250.

Good luck!
FLO Error Code and Circulation pump was extremely hot. I tracked the problem down to the motor. I thought to get a new one, then read up on capacitor replacement. The motor would get power, hum, and get extremely hot - Turns out it was a $3 capacitor replacement! Saved money, and aggravation of draining and replacing the motor.
 
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