Total Newbie

Apr 17, 2016
4
0
Eads
#1
Hello all!

I've been reading up on BBB and how to proceed, and got my test kit ordered, ready to start the process on my new pool(first time pool owner). I purchased the FAS-DPD Taylor kit and got it in today and started the testing process per the instructions, and after step one I already feel dumb, :(

Testing for the FC/CC and it says that my water SHOULD turn pink after adding the powder. Mine in fact does not do this. It stays clear. I tried the remainder of the test, but the water stays clear the whole time, so I'm at a bit of a loss. I assume, ok, there is no chlorine in water. So I got to the next step and test the ph, it doesnt even show up on the color scale, a yellow-ish color.

SO, at this point, and not knowing what the pools state was last summer, I don't know where to start. Whats the proper order of things to start balancing out first, second etc? I find lots of things on how to correct certain balances being out of whack, but I can't seem to find anything telling me what I should start with. I'm certain I missed it somewhere, so I'm looking for a little direction, :confused:

Also, I shocked the pool towards the end of the winter and beginning in the spring, and when I do, the pool surfaces all turn brown, mainly the white sections(stairs/skimmers/polaris), but the water looks super clear! Wondering where in the rotation cleaning/fixing that comes into play.

I have a 24,000 gallon in-ground pool with a liner, I guess I should go setup my signature with all that info. Thanks in advance for any direction you can provide!
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
#2
:calm: We can help. :) Welcome to TFP! :wave: Let's start here:
pH - needs to be in the mid 7s. If it's really low, that's bad. Increase with borax or soda ash.
FC - clear means zero chlorine (also bad); use regular bleach to increase
CYA - VERY important! You need to do that test to know how much FC to have.
Proper lighting is important for the CYA test. You want to test for CYA outside on a sunny day, but keep the skinny view tube in the shade. Taylor recommends standing in the sun with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.
Best place to learn most of this ... Pool School (link in my sig). Start there, and keep those other links handy as well so you know what your levels should be. It's all there for you. Read Pool School and the ABCs of Water Chemistry first, get a little familiar with the other pages, then let us know how to help.

One last thing, start practicing to use the Poolmath Calculator (link below and on home page). That's your best tool next to the test kit itself. We'll be here to help.

- - - Updated - - -

Regarding your brown areas ... where is your location "Eads"? Can you update to be more specific? Also, what is your water source? Is it a well? You will need to know if you have metal content in the water (i.e. iron). If you're not sure, consider taking a sample to the pool store for a free test, but just leave and tell us if there is any metal. You local water company may also be able to help with that.
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 11, 2012
35,432
0
Tallahassee, FL
#3
We got ya! You are in VERY good hands with Pat! He already has you on the way to getting your pool fixed up!

Let us know how it is going each step of the way!

Kim:cat:
 
Apr 17, 2016
4
0
Eads
#4
:calm: We can help. :) Welcome to TFP! :wave: Let's start here:
pH - needs to be in the mid 7s. If it's really low, that's bad. Increase with borax or soda ash.
FC - clear means zero chlorine (also bad); use regular bleach to increase
CYA - VERY important! You need to do that test to know how much FC to have.


Best place to learn most of this ... Pool School (link in my sig). Start there, and keep those other links handy as well so you know what your levels should be. It's all there for you. Read Pool School and the ABCs of Water Chemistry first, get a little familiar with the other pages, then let us know how to help.

One last thing, start practicing to use the Poolmath Calculator (link below and on home page). That's your best tool next to the test kit itself. We'll be here to help.

- - - Updated - - -

Regarding your brown areas ... where is your location "Eads"? Can you update to be more specific? Also, what is your water source? Is it a well? You will need to know if you have metal content in the water (i.e. iron). If you're not sure, consider taking a sample to the pool store for a free test, but just leave and tell us if there is any metal. You local water company may also be able to help with that.
Ah, Eads, I'm in Tennessee, the Memphis area, I'm on public water. The brown spots seem to disappear with the vitamin C tablet test, if that helps also. Thanks for the info so far! I'm re-re-reading the Pool School stuff now!
 
Apr 17, 2016
4
0
Eads
#6
Ok, I wanted to give an update here, and a big thanks to everyone for the help!

I finally got the PH and Alkalinity within range, and now I'm to the CYA portion of the show.

Currently

FC: 0
CC: 0
pH: 7.2
TA: 80
CH: ?
CYA: 100

So am I sort of screwed on the CYA thing? I've got an inground vinyl pool, ~24,000 gallons. I ran through the info, and I seem to have a few options, replace water or running a high chlorine dose on it?

Do these seem to be my best courses of action?

Could I do smaller runs of replacing water in my pool week over week to reduce the CYA, or would it just be easier to run the high chlorine levels?
 

frustratedpoolmom

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
In The Industry
May 20, 2007
12,177
0
44
SWSuburban Chicago, IL
#7
If you decide to do the higher chlorine levels you can, its possible, I've done it, but you have to be diligent with testing and chlorine additions. No skipping! :)
Did you do the dilution test to get a read on the CYA? It only goes to 100 on the vial, it could be higher.
 

Razorhog

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2013
489
0
40
Northeast Arkansas
#8
I would do a water replacement. CYA of 100+ is just going to be too cumbersome and expensive to keep the water sanitized. With a CYA of 100, you'd have to maintain FC in the 8-13 range and to shock it would have to go up to 25.
 
Apr 17, 2016
4
0
Eads
#9
Yes, I did the test and the vial only goes to 100, but it seemed to line up perfectly with that level and when the dot disappeared.

- - - Updated - - -

So I'm curious on that, could I do it gradually over time? Like drop the water line 6 inches or so, and then refill it day over day? With the vinyl pools I don't think I can drop it too low or I can run into issues with the liner.
 
Last edited:

frustratedpoolmom

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
In The Industry
May 20, 2007
12,177
0
44
SWSuburban Chicago, IL
#11
Yes, I did the test and the vial only goes to 100, but it seemed to line up perfectly with that level and when the dot disappeared.

- - - Updated - - -

So I'm curious on that, could I do it gradually over time? Like drop the water line 6 inches or so, and then refill it day over day? With the vinyl pools I don't think I can drop it too low or I can run into issues with the liner.
You can go as low as a foot in the shallow end. Some pools that have liners on stairs might be tricky, but without seeing a pic.... You can do it slowly you still have to run with a higher FC and you'll need to do the dilution method to try and gauge how high it is.

We can talk about the ph issue secondary... there are ways to resolve that issue.