today morning saw this leakage
- Thread starter socialvista99
- Start date
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- Tags
- leak
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Likely need to rebuild the Jandy valve that is under the actuator. You can buy rebuild kits with all the orings, etc. Just be sure you get the proper one for your valve.
www.troublefreepool.com
Valves - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
@mknauss - Did you notice that Jandy valve is putting the right side to be OFF, but still seeing leakage. Could that be an issue of valve not working or sending water even when the actuator is in OFF state
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I suspect the leak is coming from the oring seals in the valve. Likely matters not what setting the valve is in.
You can remove the actuator and move the valve manually to see if there is a difference.
Get at least a seal kit before taking apart the actual valve.
You can remove the actuator and move the valve manually to see if there is a difference.
Get at least a seal kit before taking apart the actual valve.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,888
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I stalled on fixing my leaking Jandy for too long, kinda intimidated by the prospect. It turned out to be a very simple job. If it's not actually the cause of the leak, it will be eventually. You'll just be doing the job a bit sooner, and eliminating it as the leak source should it prove to be otherwise. All valves need this repair at some point, it's not wasted effort. EZPZ.
That's a bad/failed glue joint if it is under that tape, not an issue with the Compool/Pentair 3-way valve.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
@mknauss @1poolman1 sorry for late reply. I actually opened Hose Clamps, under which there was a rubber tape which was attached to cover a small circular hole. looks like there was a sensor back in the day which someone stripped apart. I tried to re do the hose clamp but I made a small leakage to be big 
Attachments
but why is water being sent to the right side of candy, even when its in OFF state :|
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You need to get a plug or a slice of pvc pipe the next size up and cover that hole.
There should not be water on that side. Unless the plumbing loops back to that area somehow. Pictures shown don’t give a full picture.
There should not be water on that side. Unless the plumbing loops back to that area somehow. Pictures shown don’t give a full picture.
I will try the first advise.
What do you want the picture of to get the water flow story right? I’m really happy to have such an awesome forum and folks like you to help and make the pool care really trouble free.
I got panicked this morning and called up pool maintenance company and they might quote me high to just fix these things
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
For water flow we have to be able to see the pipes in all areas. A general picture, or pictures, that can be zoomed in on helps.
there you go @mknauss ! TIA
Notes: I have solar blanket. that giant gas heater is just non functional so dont bother connections to/from it.
Notes: I have solar blanket. that giant gas heater is just non functional so dont bother connections to/from it.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Is the actuated valve for solar? That could be why there is water on the side with the hole.
Actuated valve is for solar yes (ON1: puts OFF to line to solar, currently in photos; ON2: ON the line to solar).
Why would water be on the right side even when on ON1 position
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,888
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Marty figured it out. Even if your solar valve is a proper solar-drain-down valve, it would only drain water out of your solar panels and solar plumbing to a level equal to the height of the solar valve. The pipe leading out of that valve to the panels (the one that is leaking) is always going to be full of water unless there is some sort of manual drain on that side and you manually empty it.
If it's not a solar-drain-down valve, then that pipe is going to be full of water all the up to the roof, and probably keep your panels full of water as well.
If it's not a solar-drain-down valve, then that pipe is going to be full of water all the up to the roof, and probably keep your panels full of water as well.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,964
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
When the plumbing is elevated that far above the pad with little support, any vibrations due to the pump and/or water hammer are amplified at locations furthest from the support. So over time, these joints are more likely to fail due to stress fractures especially that joint which is furthest away from any support. I suspect you can probably move that 90 a good distance without much resistance.
If you are going to replumb, I would drop the height of all that plumbing even if you need to add a few 90s on the heater.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,888
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If that heater is dead and never to be resurrected, you should just remove its plumbing while you're at it. It's only costing you increased pump RPM for nothing. Your SWG needs a minimum flow to fire up, which means a minimum RPM on the pump. It's virtually a guarantee that RPM is higher than it needs to be because of the water diverting through that heater and those skinny metal pipes. It looks like the return pipe to the pool is much larger, 1.5" or 2". That heater setup is nothing but a giant restrictor if you're not using it.
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Look at the diverter inside the valve. That may be a "solar" valve that has either a bad check valve or was made into a "solar" valve by drilling a small hole in the diverter.
That was a very common practice for a while (may still be) when an actual "solar" valve wasn't available. They were difficult to obtain without purchasing an entire solar-control kit. It is easier to maintain a supply of regular valves and just drill the diverter through an open port than have two separate types of valve on hand.
With the proper check and isolation valves in the system just drilling a hole never caused a problem during Winter.
