I have THIS 2-speed pool pump that I'd like to figure out how to put on a timer to switch it between low and high throughout the day. Currently, have the pump on one Intermatic timer and my Polaris on another one. I want to keep this capability but would like to add the capability to do the low/high switching automatically. If I can do that without adding a third timer, that would be preferable (i.e. I'd rather replace one of the two than add a third). I'd also be open to having the Polaris and the pump high speed operate at the same time and having the Polaris switch operate the pump as well (if possible). Any help would be appreciated on how to do this.
Timer for 2-Speed Pump??
- Thread starter jobondur
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Pump runtime / pump timer
I've currently got a single speed pump that runs 24/7 and is hardwired in, such that I have to go flip a breaker in the pool shed to turn it on/off. I was told by both the previous owners and the pool company who initially introduced me to the maintenance said that because of the size of the...
www.troublefreepool.com
I think the thread above discusses the same desires -----
Soooooo…...would I need to ADD a T106R that just gets wired to the pump. Or would I REPLACE one of the existing T104s?
That guys thread was a little more simple than my situation as I'm looking to automate a little more than he was.
That guys thread was a little more simple than my situation as I'm looking to automate a little more than he was.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,497
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Mechanical timers don't give you any automation. Describe what you are looking to do beyond a fixed schedule.
So, I'm pretty sure I could make it work like this....
Timer 1 (T104) - Controls on/off of pump
Timer 2 (T104) - Controls on/off of Polaris
Timer 3 (T106R) - Controls hi/low
BUT, I'd like to get it down to two timers if possible to reduce the complexity of the wiring and to get too many moving parts out of the system. That's really what I'm looking for....
Timer 1 (T104) - Controls on/off of pump
Timer 2 (T104) - Controls on/off of Polaris
Timer 3 (T106R) - Controls hi/low
BUT, I'd like to get it down to two timers if possible to reduce the complexity of the wiring and to get too many moving parts out of the system. That's really what I'm looking for....
You would add the T106 and wire it to the T104 and the pump.
If you want the main pump and the booster pump to operate independently on separate schedules, you have to keep both timers.
If you want the main pump and the booster pump to operate independently on separate schedules, you have to keep both timers.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,497
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Truthfully, not much more than what I stated in my last post. Unless automation could monitor CL level and adjust SWG settings accordingly. I don't have all the cool water features that others have. And all my valves are manual.
James - Couldn't I have the Polaris and Hi/Low operation on the T106 above. I'd just add the power leg for the Polaris to lug #2 of the T106, correct? That way the Polaris would kick on when the hi operation of the pump kicks on. Or am I missing something?You would add the T106 and wire it to the T104 and the pump.
If you want the main pump and the booster pump to operate independently on separate schedules, you have to keep both timers.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,497
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is your Polaris pump on a different CB then your main pump? I suspect it is and one CB cannot handle two pumps.
You could rig up a 220V relay connected to the T106 that engages power to the Polaris pump. That gives you as much complexity as keeping the Polaris pump timer. One way or another you need a dedicated switch for the Polaris pump.
Another option could be the Intermatic PE653 controller. It might be overkill for what you need, but it does support 2 speed (and VS) pumps and you also get the benefit of a wireless controller that shows pool temperature.
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No, the Polaris is not on a different circuit breaker. The power for the Polaris runs through both switches if I remember correctly.
Thanks for the input but that's overkill for what I'm looking for. Not looking to spend $500 on that right now.
Can someone please explain what happens when the motor switches from low to high? Is it just getting 110V of juice on low and when the switch gets flipped to high it gets another 110V (for 220V total)? If not, what exactly is happening?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,497
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Two speed pumps have two different sets of windings in the motor. The number of coils in the windings determine the speed the motor runs. The switch energizes one coil or the other with 220v.
So, based on the schematic above (if I'm reading it right), with the T104 switch in the ON position (terminals pushed to the right), one 110V leg gets connected to the common terminal of the pump. Then based on the position of the T106 switch, the other 110V leg gets applied to either the low windings or the high windings. Is that correct?
That means I'd have to run another wire to the pump, right? And hopefully I've still got the plate that replaces the manual switch on the pump.
That means I'd have to run another wire to the pump, right? And hopefully I've still got the plate that replaces the manual switch on the pump.
What you describe is correct. You will need to run an extra wire. Depending on the wiring diagram, this is what I suspect you will need to do.
You remove and discard the yellow and black jumper wires that are connected to the switch.
Disconnect the white wire from the switch and connect it to the bottom terminal (#3,4).
From the timer, connect common to #1, high to #2 and low to #3,4.
Green goes to ground. Green screw.
The end result should be that when you select high speed, 240 goes to terminals 1 and 2 with no power to 3/4 and when you select low speed, 240 volts goes to terminals 1 and 3/4 with no power to terminal 2.
Terminal #1 is common. #2 is high and #3/4 is low (after reconfiguration of the wires).
The switch has 3 terminals. The center terminal is power in and power goes out on one of the outer terminals depending on which way the switch is pointing. In this case, we are not using the switch and no wires will be connected to the switch.
The white wire goes to the low speed windings. That's why #3,4 becomes low speed when the white wire is connected.
Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram and the wiring in the pump with the two speed switch plate pulled back?
Once you remove the wires from the two speed switch, you can use the same cover plate with the switch. You don't have to replace it.
You remove and discard the yellow and black jumper wires that are connected to the switch.
Disconnect the white wire from the switch and connect it to the bottom terminal (#3,4).
From the timer, connect common to #1, high to #2 and low to #3,4.
Green goes to ground. Green screw.
The end result should be that when you select high speed, 240 goes to terminals 1 and 2 with no power to 3/4 and when you select low speed, 240 volts goes to terminals 1 and 3/4 with no power to terminal 2.
Terminal #1 is common. #2 is high and #3/4 is low (after reconfiguration of the wires).
The switch has 3 terminals. The center terminal is power in and power goes out on one of the outer terminals depending on which way the switch is pointing. In this case, we are not using the switch and no wires will be connected to the switch.
The white wire goes to the low speed windings. That's why #3,4 becomes low speed when the white wire is connected.
Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram and the wiring in the pump with the two speed switch plate pulled back?
Once you remove the wires from the two speed switch, you can use the same cover plate with the switch. You don't have to replace it.
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,497
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, you need 3 hot wires plus a ground running to a 2 speed pump rather then 2 hot wires plus a ground for a SS pump.