Thinking of upgrading to SWG and wireless on a Pentair system - recs appreciated

[Vinoveritas]

Our pool is 11 years old and hauling bleach is now a pain and getting expensive enough for me to want to upgrade to a SWG. The pool is about 16-16.5k gallons and has the EasyTouch with the wireless card for the remote. Our pool is almost 100% in the shade to the point where I am still heating it to make it comfortable enough for my wife to use. I typically keep CYA under 30 since it is so shaded and I know this may need to go up significantly if I get a new SWG and that is fine. I am not 100% dedicated to pool maintenance and with leaf drop both in the fall and spring, I end up with a green pool that is bad enough to take my CYA down to 0, but a several day SLAM is enough to get it looking fine again but requires a full DE cleaning afterwards.

I've included a picture of our equipment and our panel. I assume it makes sense to go with Pentair for the SWG since that is what I have already? Will the 40 be enough or should I go for the 60? It seems like the conventional wisdom is that with a bigger cell that is used less, you may gain a longer life. Is that correct? I am probably not going to do this job myself unless the installation costs are super excessive but if I do, where would you put the SWG? Where the tablet feeder is now is next to the heater vent and I read that putting one there is not good for the cell.

Currently, my pool runs for 2 hours at 2750 RPM, that includes an hour for the pressure side Polaris as well, and then 4 hours at 1750 rpm.

Since I will be upgrading, I think I'd like to be able to use an app to control the pool but the cost of the part itself is over $1,000. Does the upgrade do more than just remove the need for the remote? I can ask this question in the "Everything Else" if that makes more sense.

Thanks.

 

[ajw22]

The IC40 is fine for a 16,000 gallon pool.

The IC60 can be a better value long term as it should last longer and require less pump runtime to generate the needed chlorine.

The cell should be installed along the line between the heater and the return valve. You will be able to set separate SWG % for the pool and spa on the EasyTouch.

To use an app to control the pool requires ScreenLogic II which costs about $600.

 

[Ahultin]

Since I will be upgrading, I think I'd like to be able to use an app to control the pool but the cost of the part itself is over $1,000. Does the upgrade do more than just remove the need for the remote

For roughly the same cost as screeenlogic, you can upgrade to intellicenter which is the newer automation system and will include easier firmware upgrades, touch screen interface and more importantly support since easytouch is end of life.

Will the 40 be enough or should I go for the 60? It

Ic40 is double your pool volume, ic60 is triple. For about 20% higher cost between 40/60 you get 50% more life
I would install after the check valve on the heater output before the jandy valve that goes pool/spa. With the automation you will be able to set a reduced output for when in spa mode vs pool mode.
Re being near the heater "vent", the heater exhaust is on the opposite side so should not pose any issues

 

[Vinoveritas]

Thanks for the replies!

Is there a typical runtime and RPMs for a SWG? I know it will depend on use, bather load, etc, but is there a typical minimum generating time below which you end up with inconsistent results? Right now, "Pool Mode" runs for 2 hours on my VSP at 2750 RPM and then 4 hours at a lower 1750. That 1000 RPM difference turns my spa overflow from a decent waterfall into a trickle.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks for the replies!

Is there a typical runtime and RPMs for a SWG?

Pump runtime x SWG % = chlorine generated.

Depends on the size of your SWG, gallons in your pool, and sun UV on your pool. So all unique to your environment.

RPM requirement for SWG is the minimum required to engage the flow switch. Any higher RPM is for other reasons in your pool.

I know it will depend on use, bather load, etc, but is there a typical minimum generating time below which you end up with inconsistent results?

Generating time = amount of chlorine added to your pool.

Use PoolMath Effects of Adding - SWG to calculate the FC you get for running your IC40 for a time at a %.

Right now, "Pool Mode" runs for 2 hours on my VSP at 2750 RPM and then 4 hours at a lower 1750. That 1000 RPM difference turns my spa overflow from a decent waterfall into a trickle.

You should turn off your spa overflow and use SPILLOVER mode on your EasyTouch to schedule your overflow to run twice a day for 15-30 minutes to keep your spa water chlorinated and fresh at whatever RPM you like.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Vin,

With a 16K pool and an IC40, your cell will make about 10 ppm of FC when running at 100% for 24 hours.

In Austin I would guess you are using about 4 ppm of FC per day this time of year.

To replace 4 ppm of FC, at a minimum, you will need to run the SWCG for 10 hours at 100% output. Or... you can run it 24/7 at 40% output.

Having the SWCG working and your spa spillover working are two different things that are not really connected.

If you want your spillover constantly working, you will have to run your pump at a speed that makes it spillover.

To run the SWCG, the pump just has to run fast enough to close the flow switch. As long as the flow switch is closed, the speed of the pump does not matter as the cell will still make the same amount of chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Vinoveritas]

My installer got back with me and I hope to get some more feedback from the experts.

The IC40, installed, is about $2,400, and the IC60 would be another $300. That seems like an easy decision to go with the IC60, right?

The wireless quotes was for $735 for the Screen Logic II and $1,365 for the Intellicenter. There will be an extra hour of labor for the Intellicenter at $115. My thoughts are to just control the generator at the equipment for now. Thoughts? I have the funds set aside for the logic upgrade but I am not looking to spend money without getting much benefit out of it. Right now, I don't use the easytouch for mucn more than setting my schedules for the main pump, polaris pressure side cleaner, and the lights. I will use it to turn the heater on for the main pool when my wife wants to swim or we use the spa.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Ahultin]

So lets save you some money... and cost you some money LOL, i did not notice this before, but @ajw22 , isnt the device just above the easytouch the pentair wiresless adapter?? If so, its already "installed" and all you need is the portion for the house side which you can pick up relatively cheap on ebay.
The IC60 kit at polytec is ~1700 so they are charging ~1000 for install?

Pentair IntelliChlor IC60 Complete Salt Chlorinator System

On the cost front, your pump breakers need to be upgraded to GFCI as they currently are not in compliance with NEC

Electrical GFCI - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

So lets save you some money... and cost you some money LOL, i did not notice this before, but @ajw22 , isnt the device just above the easytouch the pentair wiresless adapter?? If so, its already "installed" and all you need is the portion for the house side which you can pick up relatively cheap on ebay.

The outdoor picture shows what maybe one side of the 900MHZ wireless link connected to the EasyTouch.

What happened to the two indoor components - the other end of the wireless link and the ScreenLogic Protocol Adapter?

Or what we are seeing is the antenna for a wireless control panel and not the 900MHZ Wireless Link.

 

[Ahultin]

The outdoor picture shows what maybe one side of the 900MHZ wireless link connected to the EasyTouch.

What happened to the two indoor components - the other end of the wireless link and the ScreenLogic Protocol Adapter?

Or what we are seeing is the antenna for a wireless control panel and not the 900MHZ Wireless Link.

Got it, the OP does mention having the wireless remote

 

[Vinoveritas]

Update: Skipping the wifi update and getting the IC60. I’m happy to spend $300 on the install of my own equipment ordered from Polytec - thank you ahultin!

Next questions - I’ve used only bleach since the pool was opened 4/2012 and my salt level is 3400 from my new test from TFTK. Does the type of salt matter? Is this level about right?

My TA is at 100 and my CH is at 270. I have no issue adding borax if that would help.

Looking forward to consistent FC levels in the pool but if my pool only gets partial sun for a few hours each day, do I really need CYA in the 60+ range? I’ve run < 30 ppm since I opened the pool and SLAMing with only two jugs from Costco has been nice.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Vin,

Salt is salt in this case... It will work just fine.

I suggest that you don't add borax right now, if at all..

One thing at a time. Get your SWCG installed and up and running and then evaluate if borax is something you still want to add.

Thanks,

Jim R.