Thermistor reading

[1poolman1]

To be clear: my expectation is that the heater will stay on until the set temp is reached, even if it takes hours and it will not cut in and out if all the sensors and valves are working properly. Is this correct, or would it be normal duty cycle for it to periodically cool off by stopping combustion?

Should stay on until set temp is reached UNLESS there are other factors, like a very dirty filter or something else that affects the waterflow as long as all the systems in the heater are correct.

 

[aaron_w_o]

ok gentlemen, today the unit was short cycling again, which it had also been doing last 2-3 days consistently, so I replaced the thermal valve. This seemed to work well. For about a solid hour the unit stayed on. However, it then begain kind of short cycling again, but this time, also rebooting itself. I took the side panels and lid off to get a shot of the error LEDs and it looks like its' the pressure switch now!? is this a lemon or is it common for everything to fail at once? I am going to upload a video see this link . Please share your thoughts. Also, what is the normal behaviour of the unit once it hits the set temp? would it power cycle like this? I would think not, but I dont know... rare I get my pool this warm!

 

[aaron_w_o]

by the way, here are some good photos of the termal valve that I pulled... very corroded.

 

[JamesW]

Maybe you have low flow.

Did you ever post a picture of your entire system?

 

[aaron_w_o]

Also, can you show a picture looking into the hole where the thermal regulator goes?

Point the camera towards the top of the tube.

Hi @JamesW, see this photo, does it show what you are looking for? this is looking into the chamber that holds the thermal regulator that I swapped today.

Maybe you have low flow.

Did you ever post a picture of your entire system?

I had made a video of it. I think I deleted it. I can do that again. How can i determine what my flow even is? I feel like I must have good flow because the water coming out of the returns is forceful, but maybe pressure not same as flow? I dont know. What would be best to show the system? a video?

 

[aaron_w_o]

@JamesW does this sketch help? SD is sand dollar filter. MT is mastertemp heater. The pump is a single speed 3/4 HP Pentair.
The red lines are suction, and the blue are returns. the water coming out of the returns in the pool has good force. let me know if this helps, or I can make a video. The red J is a jandy valve. the blue J is most likely a T under the slab. (not a valve)

 

[JamesW]

That looks ok.

I forgot about the video.

The plumbing is kind of complicated and hard to follow.

Maybe the pressure switch is going bad.

I don't like the pressure switch anyway as I think that it is a bad design choice.

I would install a flow switch instead of a pressure switch.

 

[aaron_w_o]

That looks ok.

I forgot about the video.

The plumbing is kind of complicated and hard to follow.

Maybe the pressure switch is going bad.

I don't like the pressure switch anyway as I think that it is a bad design choice.

I would install a flow switch instead of a pressure switch.

Is there a part that I can use in place of the pressure switch to get flow signalling like you mentioned? I agree with you.