Thermistor reading

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1poolman1 said:
Bad thermal regulator. Bad internal bypass. Both can lead to that condition.
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So I pulled the castle off the manifold and looked at the thermal regulator. I dont believe it is "open", but I also dont know what that would look like. I ran it under the kitchen tap, hot water, which according to my tankless water heater is outputting 125F. Nothign happened to the thermal regulator. it didnt move or change appearance. notice a little corrosion on it. (see photo). Is this the culprit? What mechanical behaviour should it have when the kitchen tap hot water hits it?

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JamesW said:
Correct, leave the thermal regulator and spring out and see how it runs.
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Now I feel dumb!! Thanks! I am very curious but it’s late so I will do this in the morning. If the idea of this is to mix cold water in when it over temps, then can I run it for a few hours that way and heat my pool while I wait for parts?
 
JamesW said:
Can you show the whole system?

Try removing the thermal regulator and see if it works correctly with the thermal regulator out.
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whsat parts of the system do you want to see when you say "whole"? a video of the pump, filter, heater, SWG? or a diagram? stills? let me know and I can do it. not sure how i'd post a video but that would be fastest
 

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JamesW said:
Temperature vs. Resistance Data The IntelliCenter® Control System use 10k Ohm thermistor sensors. When the solar sensor is disconnected from the control system, the sensor will read 10k Ohm at 77º F (25ºC). Refer to the following table for the resistance at other temperatures. An accurate reading should give a temperature setting that is accurate to ±0.2º C from 0 to 70 º C.

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as i look at these charts, I thought my old thermistor was still ok. took it out of the garage and submerged it to see if wet shorted, and its not. but the terminals were really corrodded and i noticedf with the meter, if I touched the scuzz vs the bare metal, the resistance would drop to like 7k vs 10k. if I had to guess, the old thermistor is actually fine and just needed a little sanding of the leads where the wire spades go. too late now, new one installed!
 
here's heater startup video... kinda tough to shoot alone but if you missed it, the heater comes on, the red lights both flash, it displays 128 as a temp, then R14, then the water temp... and the heater light beging to flash amber indicating the demand for heat is there.

in the second video, I captured the firebox coming on a few moments later.
 
never a dull moment... today while making the video clips, the Dang flow light on the chlorinator came on. makes no sense, there is flow. filter pressure is normal, the water leaving the jets/returns in the pool seems normal pressure.

The chlorinator has been running for much longer than the heater this season, probably like at least 6 weeks... never ever saw the flow light come on before. I have a spare flow sensor if that is suspect... but now I am wondering just wtf is going on with the system. I assume even if the flow rate is actually good, that as long as the SWG has low flow, it wont draw power and perform the electrolysis to make chlorine from the salt water.

Or... is the automation turning the cell off while heating the water perhaps? i see on the IC20 that red means EITHER no flow, or system off. Screenlogic is saying I have a chlorinator low flow error... there is something truly funky going on with the setup this year.
 

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Remove the cell and check to see if it is clean.

Check the check valve to make sure that it is working correctly.

If the water display temperature starts out correct and then climbs steadily when the heater fires, it is probably a flow issue.
 
JamesW said:
You're not showing the display when the heater shuts off.

It seems like a flow issue.

Your plumbing is difficult to follow.
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when the heater shuts off during short cycle you want to see the display?

I agree there are many signs that there is a flow issue, but i dont see how or where its originating.

I am sorry the video makes it difficult to follow... i will describe it again: bottom drain and skimmer both come up from the concrete slab from the pool and are being suctioned into a 3/4 HP pentair single speed pump. the pump then connects to the sand dollar sand filter. the sand filter then connects to the intake of the heater. the heater output passes through a check valve on its way to the SWG chlorinator. the chlorinator line goes back down into the slab and out to the 2 returns in the pool. as i said a few times now, issues with heater short cycling began last season and continue. I can make a video of the mastertemp display while short cycling if you think that helps. If you want me to re-shoot my plumbing and move some of the clutter out of the way first, I can do that too.
 
JamesW said:
Remove the cell and check to see if it is clean.

Check the check valve to make sure that it is working correctly.

If the water display temperature starts out correct and then climbs steadily when the heater fires, it is probably a flow issue.
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i will pull the cell today and look... I know i checked this last season and it was spotless. The check valve has an inspection window and seems ok, however, I do plan to remove it entirely from the line and will be using a sweep elbow there as its right after a 90.
 

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