The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

[Catanzaro]

Are there fittings for shop vac that make a good connection on 2” rigid? Or are you simply holding a press fit.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Fittings to where, and from where?

 

[Mintypool]

I wanted to place a generic post that people can refer to when closing an IG Pool with a sand filter.

The information in this thread is based on my experience, how I prefer to close a pool, and extremely valuable information from some of the many talented forum members. Most of the credit should be given to them as you will see that the links are very detailed. There is no right and wrong way to close a pool, but many choices. It is entirely up to you to determine what will work for you. What works for one forum member does not necessarily work for another. Although, the concept is similar. Please feel free to ask questions.

DISCLAIMER:

Please be aware that not closing a pool properly could lead to internal damage of piping, skimmer housing, shut off valves, filters, pumps, chlorinator, salt cell, etc. If you are not comfortable closing your own pool, it is best to hire a professional and obtain a written guarantee. Please note that a volume of air is needed to clear the lines, not pressure. Do not over pressurize your air compressor and shut down immediately to avoid back pressure at the end. Always have someone assist you with the closing to make it easier.


CLOSING PROCEDURES FOR AN IN GROUND POOL


Please note that this is done from the equipment pad. It is up to you to determine where you will start. Some people work from the skimmer(s), then to the equipment pad, back to the drains and returns. The concept is similar across the board.

The shop vac, air compressor has to have enough air volume to move water through the main drain. An 8' deep main drain requires enough volume to clear out 96 inches of sealed pressure. Please look at Post # 5 (JamesW) as the 10 gallon industrial shop vac can clear up to 105 inches. If you are attempting to use your Shop Vac, remove the filter and isolate all the lines so you are only working with the main drain.

Your shop vac, may not be successful ,because it is not designed to generate enough pressure (not a lot needed), and the air volume required to lift water in the main drain above the frost line and create the "air lock". (Please see post # 7 from James W).

If you were successful in clearing the main drain with a shop vac, please describe exactly what you did, how deep your main drain is, and what shop vac you used. Please be specific.

HELP can't blow out main drain


When I refer to the Cyclone (Professional Pool Blower), I am speaking about the unit you will be using to clear out the lines. The Cyclone will clear up to 160 inches or up to 13 foot depth.

The skimmers are closed with Gizzmo's or black expandable rubber plugs, and return jets are closed off with black expandable rubber plugs. The main drain is closed off by creating an “air lock” with the shut off valve. If you have a spillover spa which pulls water and returns water, then you will have the same concept with the valve. Air travels to the heater and back. Unless, there is a drain plug, then your heater will be winterized during the process. Most PB charge extra for a waterfall and heater!

If the pool has a Paramount cleaning system, then this is a bit more tricky. Please see thread below on the correct procedures. You can blow air through each port until the floor return lifts and bubbles like the main drain and then quickly plug each area. Or you can purchase the blow out plugs (see all the way below - pictures and description) the plugs with the Schrader valves and use an air compressor. The air will be automatically locked for each one. The difference is about $5 per plug and you will also need an air compressor. A big thanks to PoolGuyCT for his product knowledge on these type of systems.

Safety cover and water levels

Pools are different, so there will be variations to my closing procedures. I wanted to put something together that is uniform with all posts. Depending on your filter, the closing procedure will also be different.

This post is for a sand filter with a multiport valve, a heater and your basic main drain, skimmers and returns.

I do not use any antifreeze in the plumbing lines. My feelings are that if water is removed properly, and there is no water left in the lines, there is no need. This is all based on comfort. It is entirely up to you if you wish to purchase antifreeze. I do not use any foam or rope in any piping. If you are in a real cold region of the country, then antifreeze may be in your best interest.

5-7 days prior to closing the pool, I bring the pool up to near SLAM level based on my CYA and allow the levels to drift down. The pump will run a full 24 hour cycle for only the first day. After this, the pump will run around 4 hours until the last day. No more chlorine additions are needed. Approximately 24 hours prior to closing, I add the Kemtek Poly-Quat 60 Non foaming, non-metallic algaecide and allow the pump to run for 12-24 hours.

Your levels at closing are either at the highest or at normal, not in between. If you are using Poly-Quat, then you must allow your levels to come back down to normal. If you are not using the algaecide, then keep at SLAM right before you close. If you are using Poly-Quat, allow your levels to drift down to your normal CYA/FC levels. If you are not using the algaecide, you can close with the SLAM - higher levels. There is an interaction between high chlorine levels and the algaecide that does not work. Even the instructions state to keep your FC at a certain level. Post # 2, quote from (Chem Geek)

"Polyquat does not oxidize chlorine; it is the other way around where chlorine oxidizes Polyquat, or Polyquat gets oxidized by chlorine."

Please see post below.

Polyquat algaecides: Mode of Action

The day of the closing, I will swap out the salt cell for a dummy pipe. In addition, I backwash the filter, rinse, and then place MPV (Multi-Port Valve) on recirculate. After this, I pump water off the steps in the shallow end until I am about 1” below the skimmers. I do not go below the returns. You can also clear the lines on the "filter" setting. While the water is being pumped out of the pool, all the outside furniture is stored in the basement and the aqua blocks (water bags) are set up around the perimeter of the pool. If you have a safety cover, this is a good time to also lay it out and get it ready for the pool. Use your time constructively and when finished you will feel great, not only that you saved hundreds of dollars, but that this process was done without rushing everything.

I shut off the power switch for the pump at the equipment pad. If you have pins in your timer, remove them as well.

Ladder and Handrail Removal (A Word of caution)

Each year, when I install the ladders, with the bolt and anchor, I count how many turns (clockwise) is needed for each bolt so there is a secure fit. When I remove the ladders and handrail, with the same amount of turns (counter clockwise), I turn the bolts, bang them down carefully and wiggle the ladder and handrail and remove. To make life easier, approximately every month, I remove the ladder and handrail as part of routine maintenance. Clean out the cups and rinse with fresh water. If you are having trouble, try some hot water to loosen things up. If you loosen the bolts to much or tighten too much, then you may have a problem removing them. If you lose the anchor, you may never get the ladder and handrail out. Keep track of the turns. Everyone should have a list for closing the pool, as not to miss anything, and this should be jotted down.

This is the return side of the swimming pool.​

First, I close off the suction side (Skimmer and Main drains). This can be done with the valve(s) or by a black plug in the pump basket. I swap out the pump lid, which has been modified. If you have unions, you can work from there. If not, you will have to work from the skimmer(s), or with an NPT fitting at the pump basket.

Modified Cover for Hayward Super Pump for Closing Swimming Pool.

Link to Cyclone. Never have taken pictures with Cyclone and Modified Cover, but you will see the shop vac, which is the same method.

cyclone pool blower - Google Search

I turn on the Cyclone and remove the air and the first return will start bubbling. With goggles, I lean on the concrete and plug the first return. You will find that as each return is plugged, the next return starts bubbling. I keep moving onto each return.

If you find that air is leaking from the return, this could be due to the fact that the plug may be real old, the plug is not flush, or if you have a liner pool, a small part of the liner is trapped between the housing and the threads causing a gap. You can carefully trim the inside of the liner with a small razor/putty knife.

Winter Return Closing Plugs

You may want to inspect the plugs before installation as well. Always keep extra winter plugs (new ones) with your winter closing storage bin. If you find that you have made several turns and it is becoming harder, and you still have air bubbles coming out, stop, back off the wing nut and discard the plug. If the wing nut breaks, it will be very difficult to unscrew and you will have to use pliers to remove very carefully. It is a very tedious time consuming process. Your best bet is to discard the plug and use a new one. The plugs are very inexpensive on line. I would keep at least 2 seasons worth on hand to replace each return

Below are pictures of # 10 plugs and # 8 plugs. The # 10 plugs will stick out of the returns and at the threads, and will create a seal. The # 8 plugs will be tucked deep inside the threaded housing of the SP1408 (Hayward return only) and will create a seal as well. They have extended # 8 plugs that can be used as well. Position flush while performing the closing, and then slowly hand tight until no more air bubbles are visible. The # 10 pictures show you (without the face plate), where the plug grabs the threads. The plug at the face plate is not that important, behind it is. The # 8 plugs are recessed and do not grab the threads, just the smooth part of the back (which you really cannot see).

View attachment 88094 View attachment 88211

If you wait long enough, more than one return will start bubbling. When I reach the 7th of 8th return, I instruct the operator (a second helper), who is near the Cyclone that when I raise my hand to shut off the Cyclone. This is done not to build too much back pressure. Once I plug the last return is when the Cyclone needs to be shut off. If you do not have a second hand, run the extension cord for your blower right near the return so you can disconnect once the last plug holds. Even though still leaking a little air, come up, shut off compressor, go back down and finish tightening the last plug.

If you have a heater plumbed in, as you are clearing the lines, water is being removed from the heater as well. My heat pump has no drain plugs. Gas heaters, at least most of them have drain plugs. Entirely up to you if you wish to remove for the winter as per the manufacturers instructions. My experience with friends and people in the business, especially in NJ, is that they do not remove the drain plugs. Make sure the gas is shut off and the pressure valve can be removed or left on. All personal preferences.

Now, you will move on to the suction side. ​

Place the MPV on closed or place a black plug in the pump basket to close off and not allow air to travel towards the filter.

First, I shut off the main drain by closing the valve. Then I shut off the second skimmer. Now, I turn on the Cyclone. As the water is gushing out of the skimmer, I have a wet vac handy and suck the water out of the skimmer simultaneously.

Post # 24 in this thread has a link if you have a combination skimmer/main drain, possibly with a diverter valve. The link is for in ground pool skimmer plumbing type of configurations.

Inground Pool Skimmer Plumbing Diagrams

Also, this thread will give more information on skimmer/main drain/diverter valve, etc. # 16 and # 21 with Pictures.

still cloudy after 3 days - Page 2


Once most, if not all the water is removed and the Cyclone is still running, I go back and close off the one skimmer and start blowing air through the second skimmer. While this is happening, I go back to the first skimmer and place Teflon tape on the Gizzmo and carefully screw into the skimmer port not to strip any threads.

Now back to the second skimmer and with the wet vac, I suction most of the water in the skimmer basket. Quickly, I go back to the Cyclone and shut it off. Now, I install the second Gizzmo the same way.

Back to the equipment pad, I open main drain and close the skimmer(s) with the shut off valves. The Cyclone is turned back on and the main drain starts bubbling creating a whirlpool. I count down to 30 seconds and simultaneously close the valve to the main drain, creating an “air lock” and shut off the Cyclone. In the pump basket, I place another black plug on the suction side. Personally, I do not know if this will help if the valve leaks, but others have used this technique.

Here is a post about the main drain. A little more reading and some excellent comments from Mas985.

Blowing out main drain? Friendly debate

Now, I remove the sight glass, the pressure gauge, the drain cap on the sand filter, and the drain plugs on the pump basket should be removed as well. Because there an SWG installed, I remove the cell and install the dummy pipe for the winter. You can do this prior to clearing the lines or after as it does not matter. Then, I place the MPV between two settings. Personally, I do not remove any drain screws from the pump basket. Now, I put the regular pump lid and cover the heat pump. The water will continue to drain over the next few weeks at the sand filter way before any freezing temperatures set in.

Below is a link on winterizing your sand filter (Please go to post # 14):

winterizing with a sand filter

The last and final step is the cover. I have a tarp with water baskets. If you have a safety cover, this is usually requires a second hand. Then I turn off the breakers for the heat pump, pool light and pump at the fuse box.


If you are using something else then a Cyclone, below you will find some threads on what other members have done with a shop vac and/or a pancake compressor and some other pointers that I picked up from the forum.

This question comes up a lot. I feel that there are several factors that play into whether or not a compressor or shop vac will be efficient enough to accomplish the task of blowing out all the lines properly. It is not pressure that is needed, but more volume.

...The distance and size of your plumbing to each return, skimmer and main drain are items to consider.

... Lowering water below the skimmer and returns make a huge difference in blowing out these areas. If water is lowered, one can literally vacuum most of the water out of the lines first and then blow the remaining water out.

... Having the appropriate shut off valves in where one can isolate each section is important as well.

... Where you are blowing the air from and if the elevation of the area is higher or lower than return jets and skimmers.

Below, please find a thread (Post # 10) which describes the experience a member has had with a pancake compressor and how to work more efficiently!

Closing: blosing out lines, water level and then some

Problem blowing out pool lines

Below is some additional information on the Cyclone that came from the manufacturer:


From speaking with the manufacturer, the Cyclone produces about 5 psi, and with the resistance of the water, the return jets are at about 90 cfm and main drain about 30 cfm. Under no pressure, the unit produces 130 cfm. The bubbling effect of the main is real powerful.

I would assume that an air compressor that can produce 10 cfm may be sufficient to move the water below the frost line. There is also a difference of the hose involved. The 1.5" hose creates a lot more air than your standard air compressor hose.

Please take a look at post # 15 (problems blowing out pool lines), and this describes the amount of CFM needed and for what. If one can isolate each area when closing, the task is accomplished a lot easier. This also assumes 2" plumbing, which creates less resistance. Some pools have 1"-1.5", which may require more cfm. The information is from another member on the forum, but I can not recall who wrote the post as it was copied.

Any questions, please write back.

EDIT: Please look at post # 9 in the Closing Pool Blow Out Connection Post/Thread. This is if you decide to purchase a Cyclone and hose only, and not create a modified cover, this is what you can do. The hose is flexible enough to be placed in the pump basket. Pictures attached. This is a 2 HP pump and I believe the 1.5 HP and 1 HP pumps have smaller piping, which is fine. The hose can be placed against the inside and not in the piping like in the picture. I had a difficult time finding any adapters in Lowes today. Monday, I will call the pool place where I ordered all the fittings to see if they have a 90 degree sweep adapter to fit on the hose. This will make the set up easier and if so, I will report back to this thread.

Closing Pool: Blow out connection Questions...

If you have closed your pool, and have a new thread specifically for this purpose, and used this thread as guidance, I would like to place your link below. For example, how you were successful with a shop vac. What worked and what did not work. Did you use a compressor? If so, which kind, etc. What you would do different next time, etc. Please send me the link (PM), and I will add it to this thread (first post). Some people will not continue to read afterwards, so it is best to keep in this single post. Pictures are real helpful. Thanks!

Some pictures below on where the air compressor, shop vacuum or Cyclone can be hooked up. Please read description after the pictures:

View attachment 70007

The picture above and the picture below shows a small shop vac. The test here was to determine if this was powerful enough to clear out skimmer lines, main drains, returns, etc., which it was not. The shop vac may be successful if one builds some pressure and burps the system with winter plug. The Cyclone is used, instead of the shop vac, but you will be able to see how it is hooked up with the modified cover. The shop vac was successful in removing some more water out of the filter through the drain plug only.

View attachment 70008

View attachment 70009

The pictures above and below show that the 1.5" hose is flexible enough to be placed in the pump basket, even without a modified cover. One could wrap a microfiber towel in the port opening to help with air coming back into the basket. If done with a professional pool blower, you will also be successful in clearing the lines as I have seen others work this way.

View attachment 70010

The picture above shows the screw that is to be removed and you could attach an NPT fitting that hooks up to your compressor. With this scenario, The pump basket should be removed and cover placed on. No modified cover needed. Air will build up inside the pump basket and move to the first area with the least resistance. I would recommend highly that you isolate each area or clear one line at a time, and even possibly burp the lines. With the main drain, you may need to air lock the system many times as you can not plug the bottom and burp the line. Start with low pressure (15 psi to 20 psi) and work your way up to no more than 30 psi. Remember that air volume is needed here, not pressure.

An NPT fitting attaches to your air compressor hose and threaded to the pump housing basket.

Please note that the FROG System has been cut out. A SWG, heat pump and chlorinator were all added, but the pump housing/motor/filter, etc. has not changed.



Below are pictures of the Winter Plugs (# 9, # 10, & # 11), with Blow Out Schrader Valves and Winter Plug Chart to match up to plumbing size.

Blow-Thru Valve Winter Pool Plugs - Various Sizes

Thread below on Blow-Thru Valve Winter Pool Plugs

Blow-Thru Valve Winter Pool Plugs


View attachment 86370

View attachment 86368


Below, you will find a schematic of air travel.

.. From the pump, air will travel towards the suction side.
.. From the pump, air will travel to the returns through the filter, heater, SWG, and back to the pool.
.. Please note that not all pools will have a main drain (MD), 2 skimmers, and 6 returns.
.. Any waterfall feature will also be cleared out on the return side (not shown)

View attachment 87496



SUCCESSFUL LINKS CLOSING POSTS BELOW:

The thread below is very detailed and includes pictures.

Thinking about closing my own pool but have some concerns

Read through the post and have a few questions for first time closing on my own. I’ve gotten to the step of switching to recirculate/lowering the water. I posted a picture of my setup but can summarize here too. I have 2 returns, 1 skimmer, 2 main drains. On the suction side there is a jandy valve to shut off skimmer(which I have closed now) and main drain.
The step I am at now is trying to pump the water below the skimmer, some of the water was drained by backwashing the filter but now since the skimmer is sucking air I closed the skimmer and just let the main drain do the “Recirculating” .
1) Do I pump to waste to drain more water below the skimmer?
2) Do you leave the filter running on recirculate while your blowing out the lines from inside the pump basket?
3) What position does the jandy valve go in if I am going to use that blue vacuum hose on the cyclone to blow out the return lines from inside the pump basket?

 

[Catanzaro]

1) Do I pump to waste to drain more water below the skimmer?

If you want to lower below the skimmer, then you can set on backwash or waste and pull from the drain only. This year, I decided not to drain below the skimmer. I was soaked after closing the pool, but no big deal. The reason is that last year I lost a lot of water through evaporation and thought I had a leak, so this year I made a decision to keep the water 3/4 of the way on the skimmer.

2) Do you leave the filter running on recirculate while your blowing out the lines from inside the pump basket?

Everything has to be shut off, power, breakers while clearing the lines. You should have on "recirculate" to clear the lines. You can work on filter, but I choose not to. The cyclone is powerful enough in where you can keep every line open, or work and isolate lines all together. All up to comfort.

3) What position does the jandy valve go in if I am going to use that blue vacuum hose on the cyclone to blow out the return lines from inside the pump basket?

All valves remain open while clearing the lines of water with air using the Cyclone. You can not use the blue vacuum hose that is used for vacuuming. My thread has all the parts you need, etc. The only valve that should stay closed is the main drain valve to create the "air lock".

Did you create a modified cover? Thanks!

 

[Mintypool]

1) Do I pump to waste to drain more water below the skimmer?

If you want to lower below the skimmer, then you can set on backwash or waste and pull from the drain only. This year, I decided not to drain below the skimmer. I was soaked after closing the pool, but no big deal. The reason is that last year I lost a lot of water through evaporation and thought I had a leak, so this year I made a decision to keep the water 3/4 of the way on the skimmer.

2) Do you leave the filter running on recirculate while your blowing out the lines from inside the pump basket?

Everything has to be shut off, power, breakers while clearing the lines. You should have on "recirculate" to clear the lines. You can work on filter, but I choose not to. The cyclone is powerful enough in where you can keep every line open, or work and isolate lines all together. All up to comfort.

3) What position does the jandy valve go in if I am going to use that blue vacuum hose on the cyclone to blow out the return lines from inside the pump basket?

All valves remain open while clearing the lines of water with air using the Cyclone. You can not use the blue vacuum hose that is used for vacuuming. My thread has all the parts you need, etc. The only valve that should stay closed is the main drain valve to create the "air lock".

Did you create a modified cover? Thanks!

I did not but maybe will in the off season and I was hoping to close today. Does the cyclone usually have a hose that comes with it or you have to order separately? Mine came with a white threaded adapter only which is what I think you said is used if you work from the skimmer? I saw the link for the black hose but am hoping to close today and don’t understand the difference than a vacuum hose. If I go to a pool store or Home Depot to get the black hose what am I looking for?
Also after blowing out the main drain you turn the jandy valve to close, shut off the cyclone quickly, remove the hose then put a plug in the suction side of the pump basket in that order?

 

[Catanzaro]

Please upload pictures of your Cyclone - hose set up. Yes, on the main drain to "air lock"

 

[Mintypool]

I kept an old vacuum hose I was going to use for the pool cover pump but I cut it and rethreaded a cuff on the end.
Also I posted pictures of the heater I have... I do not see any drain plugs but if I am understanding right the water gets blown out of the heater and out the returns so you don’t have to do anything else except shut off the gas?

 

[Catanzaro]

Did you create a modified cover? How long is the hose? Yes, water runs through the heater and no need to drain anything, unless there is a drain plug. Sometimes drain plugs are best left alone not to strip them.

 

[Mintypool]

No I didn’t create a modified cover. The hose can be cut to whatever length but I did 5 ft. Is there any reason not to use that hose?

 

[Catanzaro]

As long as the fittings work, yes you will be fine. The Cyclone has a lot of air volume and you may even consider a 10' length. You will have to work from the skimmer and thread in an adapter and hopefully you have a newer type skimmer where a Gizzmo can be there in. If not, you can hold the hose against the lines, etc. I know the hoses that I carry have enough flexibility to work from the pump basket.

 

[Mintypool]

Why work from skimmer and not the inside of the pump basket like you said you do if the hose is a flexible one? I am going to give it a try but as you can tell am nervous to start but appreciate your feedback. I just want to make sure I have this idea right before starting. When you say you set the MPV valve to recirculate, you mean with the pump off right? In other words once you turn off the pump after lowering the water level and open the pump cover you never turn the pump on again through the rest of the line clearing process right?

 

[Mintypool]

Also if you didn’t lower the water level below the skimmer and you are blowing out the skimmer, you thread the gizmo in quickly while water is still in the skimmer? And do you put caulk wrap on the gizmo?

 

[Catanzaro]

Before starting, shut the pump off, remove the pins, shut off the breaker, place MPV on recirculate, etc. I do not believe this hose will be flexible enough, the end of the fitting will not fit inside the suction and return area as it is too big, in addition to the limited flexibility. I put Teflon Tape on the Gizzmo and yes, I was careful in threading in the Gizzmo. I also have a Gizzmo with blow thru plugs in where you can install them, and remove water from the top. The whole key is to remove most of the water. Water can only freeze and expand about 10% at most, and NJ weather usually does not harm piping unless we have a severe cold spell for a long period of time. You have plenty of time to experiment with the cyclone.

 

[Mintypool]

I see what you mean now about the hose. I had some adapters that all worked great to attach to end of vacuum hose/Cyclone which then connected to a cone adapter and then of course all this attachments did not fit into the pump basket so I had someone hold the hose in the basket while I put plugs in return lines with no bubbles that I could see with goggles on return completely under water. My far return is on the stairs so with water level below skimmer it is only halfway under water so bubble test did not work.
If you look at the picture of my setup I do have junctions but they are all on pretty tight now, I couldn’t loosen by hand and I am wondering if the pool company who I used in previous years blew it out at the pump or at the junctions. Should I use a tool to take off junctions and start over?

So next was the skimmer, water was lowered below the skimmer by an inch and emptied out everything I could with a cup. While blowing that out water for a few mins I tried to install the gizmo but had a hard time threading it in with water blowing in my face. Mine says it has a blowout tube so do you thread in first with plug open, then close the plug, then turn off cyclone? I posted a picture of mine if that helps

Also I know you says your not an antifreeze guy but if I want do antifreeze in the return lines, the only way to do it is lower the water level below the return lines and use a curved funnel right?

 

[Mintypool]

I reread your post and had success after threading the gizmo in first then putting in cap.

I did “air lock” the main drain with the Cyclone blowing for 30 seconds then shutting the Jandy but I thought I remember something about hearing it lock?

I took off the sand filter drain last and a good amount of water is slowly draining, this is not a sign that anything wasn’t blown out right? Last thing I read you said you remove the drain plug but not the screws in the pump basket, I can not find any plug, just 2 screws on the Hayward Super Pump. I posted a picture. Thanks again

 

[Mintypool]

I went back and reread again and realized after blowing out the return lines I never put the MPV to closed. After blowing out the suction side I now put a black plug in both suction and return lines but I know that was out of order. Is this why water is continuously dripping out of sand filter and would that effect anything that was already blown out?

 

[Catanzaro]

Place the MPV Valve between any 2 settings. The sand filter will drip for a few days and then stop and this is normal. Consider making a modified cover that will adapt perfectly to your pump lid housing. If not, you can still purchase the 6' hose 1.5" that will be flexible enough, but the cover is well worth it. An investment of $50. You will either have to cut the hole or find someone to help you. The thread includes posts from other members on how they did it.

 

[Mintypool]

Thanks for you help

 

[Pete Cleaner]

Great Info, even a good reminder for the pros

 

[LeisureTime79]

Just to clarify for anyone still unsure....

Cyclone + Modified pump cover = Total Domination!

Thank you so much for creating this post...
While not cheap, I consider the equipment an investment that essentially breaks me even this year vs having someone close my pool, and a win each year going forward. Cheers!

 

[dellov1]

Very simple. Chlorine and the optional Poly-Quat 60. The thread goes into detail.

Hi all getting ready to close my in ground pool. this is a very helpful thread. i have 3 questions.
1. how low should i let my slam go before i put in the polyquad 60? i saw someone post 3ppm FC?
2. Should i let PH which was raised as i SLAM'ed the pool drift down to 7.6 or lower it with Acid prior to polyquad? Its around 8 right now. It was around 7.6 prior to SLAM.
3. do i still require a floating chlorinator in the pool with pucks thru the winter?