The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

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I cleared everything from the "junction" that was in my system. You can see it in this old pic from below between the pump basket and the skimmer/main lines. I removed the plug and went to Home Depot to buy one that would screw into this that would also take the vacuum hose attachment screwed into it.
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This is an easier way. You have shut off valves for all 3 lines. This makes clearing the return side easier as air can only to that way. I am glad you were successful in the closing of the pool. I just added the winterization of the sand filter to the first post.
 
As the summer is winding down, a lot of pool owners are now thinking about closing their own swimming pool, so I wanted to bump this thread. In the next few weeks, I will post up some pictures of the Cyclone pool blower (which is mentioned but not shown). It is best to read the first post.

Below is a link on You Tube with some helpful videos. It is best to watch as many videos as possible because you will grab ideas from each one and be apply to apply to your own pool. Pools are configured differently. If you have questions, please ask. It is always best to provide pictures of your equipment pad (all angles is best - top, front, side, side and back) if possible so at least we know what you are working with. In addition, please always describe the shut off valves you have and what they control, plus what type of blower, compressor, or shop vac you will be using for the closing. Thanks!


closing an inground pool for winter - YouTube
 
This is my 3rd year closing my pool, I have learned something new every year. I am wondering what kind of chemicals and or winterization kits I should be looking for online and or household products. Thanks for any advice that you may offer.

Items I use to close pool:
Air compressor to the pump.
Stove pipe the returns to shoot water out do this twice. (stove pipe has a ball valve on it to help build up pressure, 3 returns and a skimmer)
Antifreeze because living in South Dakota, it does get cold.
Use magic lube for the return covers so it's easier to take off next spring.

I may have forgot something, but my list is not infront of me at this moment.
And a cold beer after all this is done in hopes a good opening is in my future.
 
Here is my question: is the Jandy valve on the suction pipe tight enough to maintain the air lock on the water column pressing through the main drain for several months?
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You will hear it hissing, but if you also want to be quick about things, you can also place a rubber plug in the pump basket as "extra insurance". If the valve has a small leak, the black plug will stop air. In the spring, when I remove the plug, there is air that still escapes. Although, you will have to make sure that the other valves, if linked with the skimmers are shut off that way as well. For example, my system can only shut off the MD, which will leave the skimmers open, but can only shut off one skimmer at a time (Therefore only one skimmer on to protect the system) as I have pins in the Pentair shut off valves, which personally I like better than Jandy Never Lube. I actually turn them around on the skimmer part so everything is closed.

Some people agree that the MD is not an issue, especially in Central & South Jersey, but I do not take any chances.


An intact jandy will hold an airlock, you can hear a hissing if the valve is comprised. When in doubt, chop it out.
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How funny Ray!
 

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No I was waiting for further instructions.
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Brining your pool up to SLAM is fine, but you do not need to run the pump continuously for 5 days (this is over kill). You can run for 24 hours the first day and then go back on the same cycle, not add any more and allow the levels to drift down. Your pool should be clean to begin with. If not, then you will need to perform the SLAM according to pool school.

The levels will probably not drift down to the 3 ppm, but then at least 12-24 hours before closing you can add the Poly-Quat 60 and mix for at least 12-24 hours. Personally, I only mix for 12 hours, then close the pool. Good luck with everything.
 
So many variations on closing. Here's a couple things I do;

1. I do not lower the water level...if anything I keep it higher than normal. I have a large pool and a solid cover. The higher water level allows for the cover to come on and off easier, causes less strain on the cover, and keeps it from sagging during the winter. This also helps allow the water to be pumped off the cover easier during the winter. I use Gizmos and and extra empty water bottle in each skimmer.

2. I hook my 2 gallon 100 psi air compressor to the basket on the pump and blow out all water lines and the bottom drain.

3. I suck the water out of the skimmer basket/return lines with a shop vac.
 
Good morning. I’ve been tying to read all the post and articles I can find on “closing” my IG pool, and I still have a few questions. I’m sure they have all been asked and answered, absolutly amazing amount of info on this site!!! Anyway, I live between San Francisco and Sacramento, and we don’t tend to see too many below freesing temps. Maybe a few very cold nights and only for a few hours at the most. The ground does not freeze! With all that being said here are my questions...

Can I just lower my pump usage and make sure it’s running at those colder times of the night/early morning hours?

Would I just keep testing and adjusting numbers as required for the winter months?

But less often?

Anything extra I should add?

I understand that at a certain water temp my SWG ceases to serve a purpose.

Should I remove my salt cell and store it when the water temps drop?
If so, is there anything special I need to do with my good salt cell?
(I kept the original/temp one that was originally installed)

I have a solar blanket (heavy duty bubble wrap) that is cut to fit my funky shaped pool. It does an OK job keeping the junk out.

Thanks to everyone here for all the great info!!! Pros and rookies, I learned tons from all of you.
~Mark
<Just Say NO to pool stores>
 
mmmiles22:

Only run the pump as needed through the winter when temperatures drop below 32 degrees. You can run on lower speed. You can also swap out the salt cell for a dummy pipe, inspect, & clean if necessary. Maintain the pool the TFP way. Your chlorine usage will drop, so you will only need to add liquid every few days, or even once a week. You will have to experiment with what you are doing.
 

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