TFTestkit finally in! Results posted, SLAM needed.

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Lemonred34

Well-known member
May 5, 2019
157
Louisiana
Received my test kit today! Need to start a slam ASAP. Intex above ground close to 10k gallons.

Results-
FC-3ppm
CC-1.5 ppm
TA-60
Ph from the k-100 kit indicates 6.8
CYA I can only assume is close to 0

Seriously, I did the test 3 times and even YouTubed it to make sure I was doing it correctly and not somehow misreading the instructions. I filled tube up to the very top and I can still see the black dot, sure it’s a LITTLE cloudy but not a whole lot.

So I need to raise Ph and CYA according to pool math. I have about 3lbs of borax 20 mule. Also have Clorox ph UP. Pool math indicates 4lbs of borax, ph up according to the directions I should have enough to raise it with that. Thoughts?

Would it be stupid to raise PH tonight and CYA tomorrow? As I will head to work in a few and not be back until morning. (Have to buy chemicals to raise CYA while I’m out)

What stabilizer would you guys recommend for raising CYA?

Thanks in advance!
 
The SLAM Process directions tell people to lower their pH to 7.2 since almost everyones pH is above that. I think you can start your SLAM Process with your current pH. Adding shock level chlorine raises the pH and should get you into the 7's. @mknauss what do you think?

All stabilizer is the same. Get whatever is the least expensive and available.
 
I would add 1 lb of borax and retest.

Is the pool water green? Was there CYA in this pool before? If so, raise your FC to 10 ppm with liquid chlorine, circulate for 15 minutes, and then test FC and CC again, post here before adding CYA.

If you test above 5 ppm FC above, then follow:
I assume this water had CYA in it before so only add 20 ppm worth of CYA via the sock method. Assume you have a 30 ppm CYA level until you test, 24 hours after all the CYA is dissolved.
SLAM at 12 ppm FC.
 
mknauss said:
I would add 1 lb of borax and retest.

Is the pool water green? Was there CYA in this pool before? If so, raise your FC to 10 ppm with liquid chlorine, circulate for 15 minutes, and then test FC and CC again, post here before adding CYA.

If you test above 5 ppm FC above, then follow:
I assume this water had CYA in it before so only add 20 ppm worth of CYA via the sock method. Assume you have a 30 ppm CYA level until you test, 24 hours after all the CYA is dissolved.
SLAM at 12 ppm FC.
Click to expand...

I’m not sure of the CYA before, just test the water today. Did have a heavy rain yesterday, don’t know if that was enough to move to zero. I had been adding liquid chlorine for the last few evenings while waiting on my test kit. Pool water looks to be green but when dipping it in the tubes, not so much.

Also when you say circulate do you mean the recirculate option on pump? Or just general filter?

Have a sand pump ? Hear that’s a nightmare trying to clear a pool. “Yay”
 
Lemonred34 said:
I’m not sure of the CYA before, just test the water today. Did have a heavy rain yesterday, don’t know if that was enough to move to zero. I had been adding liquid chlorine for the last few evenings while waiting on my test kit. Pool water looks to be green but when dipping it in the tubes, not so much.
Click to expand...

Marty is trying to have you test your water for ammonia. If you had CYA and it disappeared out of the water then it may be bacteria that ate it and caused ammonia. CYA can only be lost from water by dilution.

Follow the directions to raise your FC to 10 ppm with liquid chlorine, circulate for 15 minutes, and then test FC and CC again, post here before adding CYA. If your water held the 10ppm for 15 minutes then no ammonia. If you lost a lot of FC in 15 minutes then let's discuss next steps before you add CYA which would only create more ammonia.

Lemonred34 said:
Also when you say circulate do you mean the recirculate option on pump? Or just general filter?
Click to expand...

Just run your pump and filter and circulate your water.

Lemonred34 said:
Have a sand pump ? Hear that’s a nightmare trying to clear a pool. “Yay”
Click to expand...

We use the tool we have. o_O
 
ajw22 said:
Marty is trying to have you test your water for ammonia. If you had CYA and it disappeared out of the water then it may be bacteria that ate it and caused ammonia. CYA can only be lost from water by dilution.

Follow the directions to raise your FC to 10 ppm with liquid chlorine, circulate for 15 minutes, and then test FC and CC again, post here before adding CYA. If your water held the 10ppm for 15 minutes then no ammonia. If you lost a lot of FC in 15 minutes then let's discuss next steps before you add CYA which would only create more ammonia.



Just run your pump and filter and circulate your water.



We use the tool we have. o_O
Click to expand...
Thanks for clarifying! I’ll post results soon!
 
Lemonred34 said:
Pool math suggested adding 1 gallon of 6%
Did that. Waited 15 min. FC still at 3
Click to expand...

145 oz of 6% should have raised your 3ppm to 10ppm. If you are back to 3ppm then something is eating your chlorine rapidly. You have to continue adding bleach to raise your CL to 10 ppm and test after 15 minutes and repeat until it holds 10ppm after 15 minutes.
 
Lemonred34 said:
Maybe a stupid question, I did the drops as instructed, swirled and water was clear. Now the water is pink again after walking away and coming back ? do I keep adding drops?
Click to expand...

No, first time to clear is the end point of the test.
 
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I’ll def need more chlorine. Should I test after each bottle to insure that I’m hitting that 10? I’ve spent the last few days scooping leaves etc, been going in blind so can’t really see how much I may still have down there.
 
Lemonred34 said:
I’ll def need more chlorine. Should I test after each bottle to insure that I’m hitting that 10? I’ve spent the last few days scooping leaves etc, been going in blind so can’t really see how much I may still have down there.
Click to expand...

If you follow the quantities given in PoolMath you should be close enough. Put in what your current PPM is and add the quantity to get to 10ppm.

You need to break the ammonia eating the CL before you can add CYA and proceed with the SLAM Process
 
Ph up to 7.5, FC this am after 12 hours was 5.5 (had to work night shift) using sock method in front of return for CYA. Brushed the pool this am when I got off. Did some more dipping for debris. Going to check FC again around 11, then hopefully get a nap! Fingers crossed this show will be on the road in 2 weeks!
 
Note that pH test is unreliable when FC is above 10. Once you start a SLAM Process just check FC levels until it meets the 3 exit criteria.
 

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