Texas Freeze Damage - Post #7,254

aceniza

Well-known member
Jun 17, 2019
95
DFW
Pool Size
14300
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
When the rolling blackouts stopped rolling, my pool had been sitting for probably about 3 hours. I thawed and opened what I could with a blow torch. I haven’t had a chance to run the system yet since the bottom half of my filter housing is still frozen (I removed the upper half, I just now found the drain). Hoping the heater didn’t suffer any damage.

Long story short, my Hayward T-3 salt cell cracked. It’s only 2 years old. Can I glue/epoxy this thing back together with a good clamp?

also, looooong time ago I cracked a union nut. What’s the best way to replace this, there’s not much PVC to work with.
 

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You cannot glue and clamp a cracked cell. It needs to be replaced.
 
You cannot glue and clamp a cracked cell. It needs to be replaced.
Thanks, that’s all I needed to know!

Yikes! This was a rough one for you.
A lot of my neighbors weren’t able to do anything. Cracked cells, filter housings, pump baskets, piping, etc.


anyone have a suggestion for replacing the union on the right?
 
anyone have a suggestion for replacing the union on the right?

I can’t tell what size the unions and elbows are. They look like they may be 2” or 2.5”. You may be able to glue a 1.5” pipe on the inside and then build back out. You need to get a bunch of different PVC parts and then start cutting it back and see where you can rebuild from.
 
Looks like I can use a few different heat methods to pry the inner 2” pipe from the flow switch.
Got a new cell and union on order

primed the system and ran it.... OOF
MAJOR leaking from my heater. I’m gonna disassemble it and see what the damage is, it might be the entire heat exchanger (Hayward heatpro, unsure of model).

Check valve is also busted.
 
Hate to be the one but pretty sure the heat exchanger is toast.
I’m thinking it is. The way the water was spraying out was radially, so it’s not likely it’s one of the straight sections of pipe I could section out.

Is this a straight forward swap, or do I need to deal with refrigerant or whatever the heck is in the copper tubes?
 

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Last edited:
Looks like you need to dig all the way into it for the heat exchanger and will need to capture the refrigerant and recharge it. working with refrigerant requires an EPA license.
 
When the rolling blackouts stopped rolling, my pool had been sitting for probably about 3 hours. I thawed and opened what I could with a blow torch. I haven’t had a chance to run the system yet since the bottom half of my filter housing is still frozen (I removed the upper half, I just now found the drain). Hoping the heater didn’t suffer any damage.

Long story short, my Hayward T-3 salt cell cracked. It’s only 2 years old. Can I glue/epoxy this thing back together with a good clamp?

also, looooong time ago I cracked a union nut. What’s the best way to replace this, there’s not much PVC to work with.
I have had some luck repairing cracked salt cells using the UV Light type glue. There are several brands; all come with a little UV light that triggers the glue to harden very quickly. Best to use a dremmel to first grind a small shallow groove along the crack to ensure a good bond. If that does not work, ask around for special disaster discounts on cells. Discount Salt Pool is currently offering up to 35% discount on cells to folks impacted by last weeks deep freeze. They also carry "cell bypass pipes" and a "pipe extender" that allows one to cut close to a valve or whatever and re-plumb.
 

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