Tell Me I Should Open My Hot Tub

5 rounds of dropping pH with MA and pH is a lot more stable. Still creeping up a bit but I don't want to go too far. Letting it run a little bit and will check levels in a bit.

Added a tad more CYA and CL as well. Temp is holding nicely at around 100.

And I wonder, why did I wait so long? Oh yeah, it seemed daunting and there is only so much time in a day... work, kids, dog, etc. But hey, you know me, I can't complain 😁
Well let it get 2-3 degrees warmer and climb in!! I'm heading out to mine right now!
 
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In this weather, 100 feels too hot. Maybe next week I'll go a little higher!

Water is pretty dialed in. Just tested it:
FC 1
CC 0
pH 7.6 (Even after about an hour of bubbling)
TA 50
CH 80 (bumping it up to about 200 now)
CYA 20-ish

Easy peasy, so far. Keeping the FC up with varying bather loads seems like it will be the only challenge.

CSI is a tad low with the low calcium. Once calcium is up to 200, I'll be good.
 
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Hot tubs like ours are acrylic. Negative CSI doesn’t matter. Unless you are having issues with excessive foaming you don’t need to add calcium.
I always thought it was still good practice to keep the CSI in a safe range for the sake of metal parts in the tub, like heaters and pump parts. Same goes for a vinyl pool... no worries about plaster, but still good practice for the metal bits.
 
Hot tubs like ours are acrylic. Negative CSI doesn’t matter. Unless you are having issues with excessive foaming you don’t need to add calcium.
Heck, my water is soft to begin with and I add distilled water to it all the time.. from my dehumidifier in the house. Never a problem, and no foaming at all..
 
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I always thought it was still good practice to keep the CSI in a safe range for the sake of metal parts in the tub, like heaters and pump parts. Same goes for a vinyl pool... no worries about plaster, but still good practice for the metal bits.
CSI isn’t for metal parts. If you look at the TFP recommended levels, CH of 0-50 is acceptable and 50-550 is ideal for vinyl pools (which would apply to acrylic as well). There is a note that some metals may be affected by CH levels near zero over extended periods of time, but that is why the ideal is 50 and up. Bring it up to 50 or so on a new fill and call it good. 👍

 
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Without the softener and the iron-out pellets, the water smells like iron and will make for very ugly pool water. Even with the softener, it's still questionable for iron content.
Well I may have soft water but I still have a high iron content!! And I do have an iron filter, doesn't seem like it gets it all out however, but I do have a great secondary iron filter.. the sand filter in my pool. I have gone to always filling my hut tub from my pool and have no iron problem in my hot tub whatsoever!
 
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Well I may have soft water but I still have a high iron content!! And I do have an iron filter, doesn't seem like it gets it all out however, but I do have a great secondary iron filter.. the sand filter in my pool. I have gone to always filling my hut tub from my pool and have no iron problem in my hot tub whatsoever!
Good thinking. Next fill is coming out of the pool. Save some electricity not having to heat up 55 degree water and save some time starting with balanced pool water. Just have to take TA down a little.
 
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That's what I got is the one that sits the cover way down.. lets you see 360 degrees instead of having the cover make a wall..

I have had a lot of lifters over the years and I like this one the best.. a little pricey , but worth every penny.

 
I also got these to keep my cover from getting all scuffed up on the concrete pad..

And no, I have no affiliation with Boomerang, just like the cover lifter is all.

 
I did 2 MA doses and aerations to get the TA down but it was too late to do any more work on it. I'll pick it back up later today.

The blue end caps of the filters felt a bit oily. The only thing I could attribute that to would be mold release oils. I tried wiping them down with some general purpose cleaner and they still felt oily so I wiped them down with alcohol on a rag and that seemed to do the trick. Still a tiny bit of the oil remained and I could see a very slight oil sheen on the water around filter when I put it in. Nothing to worry about but it was visible.

I'm sure in a pool where the filter goes into a tank and there are tens of thousands of gallons of water, it would be unnoticeable.
I had the same issues with my hot tub filters. There were three new filters two blue and one white. The blue filters were oily, I wiped them down but after I put them in there was a visible sheen of oil on the tub.
 
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I'm considering this cover lifter: Cover Caddy - Cover Valet

It doesn't require drilling into cabinet and lowers cover so it's not blocking view.
That one just seemed a little flimsy looking when I was doing my research...
You can get the no drill option on the Boomerang also, but again pricey!!

 
I'm considering this cover lifter: Cover Caddy - Cover Valet

It doesn't require drilling into cabinet and lowers cover so it's not blocking view.
I've installed many, many, many cover lifts, but never one of those. Not even sure it counts as a "lift". More like a cradle, like hot springs used to use.


This is the style I recommend. There are several varieties by different manufacturers, but basically the same thing.
 

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