Switch to SWG?

Sorry, Dirk and mk,

So, just noticed the various questions to be answered - they transfer into the signature block? BTW, there was no selection for a Circupool T-9, so I chose the Hayward as a closest functionally accurate substitute.

Second, not trying to be a scofflaw - and, one can certainly tell from my MANY expressions of thanks in my posts, that I am thankful for the help. I've actually never had a proper chemical test kit - have had a couple of pools - and, I know it would be better if I had a proper test kit for the basic chemistry - but never had any chemistry issues. However, I simply don't have one right now. It's on the list.
 
Sorry, Dirk and mk,

So, just noticed the various questions to be answered - they transfer into the signature block? BTW, there was no selection for a Circupool T-9, so I chose the Hayward as a closest functionally accurate substitute.

Second, not trying to be a scofflaw - and, one can certainly tell from my MANY expressions of thanks in my posts, that I am thankful for the help. I've actually never had a proper chemical test kit - have had a couple of pools - and, I know it would be better if I had a proper test kit for the basic chemistry - but never had any chemistry issues. However, I simply don't have one right now. It's on the list.
Not knowing what the rest of the list consists of but I'd take care of that one now and be done with it. A test kit is basically an insurance policy on the chemistry, a small price to avoid a large inconvenience.
 
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Am back from weeks travel assisting family member with a medical issue. During this time, it has rained heavily in NW Florida.

Test shows salt has dropped to 2200 ppm, so I shut off the SWCG, increased pump speed and added a 40 lb bag - I don't yet have a baseline for adding, so I may overshoot. I'll wait a few days then reassess. If needed I can always add some water - and, given our location - it is likely to rain more, as well.

Still don't have a proper chemistry test kit, but strips do show a drop in free chlorine.
 
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Well you do have a good b kit for the salt test so I'd give it a second bag since each pound of salt raises it 9.2 ppm in your pool which will bring it just around 2900. Give it 24 hours and start the cell. In the meantime use liquid chlorine.
I encourage you to read Test Kits Compared and get one of them yesterday.
 
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I encourage you to read Test Kits Compared and get one of them yesterday.
You're playing with fire, or rather algae, by putting off the purchase of a proper kit. With the cost of chlorine, and the warming weather, cleaning up a green pool will definitely cost you more than a good kit. It's one of those "Pay me now, or pay me later." type dealios...

You're actually describing the "perfect storm" [one of many], literally and figuratively. You go away for a few days, it rains enough to drop your salt level, which shuts down the SWG, then it warms back up before you get home. Boom, Emerald City. It can happen in a day or two when the conditions are favorable.

If you're climate is furnishing natural water exchanges, then maybe you want to run your salt at the upper end of the acceptable range, to cover you when you're expecting to be gone and rain is in the forecast...
 
I went back and reread and recomputed my pool math - in order to increase from 2200 ppm to around 3000 ppm should take about two bags at 384 ppm increase (using whole bags).

Brushed a lot and pump is on high speed. Also put in robot to further move the salt around. Will check tomorrow and report.

Thanks!
 
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This morning's check is 2800 ppm ... so if using absolute numbers, and assuming enough time has passed for full mixing (I am going to leave pump running the rest of the day and brush bottom a few more times, then retest) the absolute increase was 2800-2200=600 ppm, when I was expecting an increase of: 2 bags x 384/bag = 768 ppm.

Given the error range of 200 ppm that was mentioned, I could still be in the right range - which means the estimate of the number of gallons in the pool is generally accurate?
 
OK - so been reviewing test kits - lots of options, but do I need something as comprehensive as the K-2006C or the TF-100? If so, the TF-100 seems to be a better price point - and includes Chlorine OTO (which apparently only checks for the presence of chlorine?). It is about $96 shipped and the K-2006C is more like $125-130.

Given the life of the chemicals (I keep indoors), is there a need to get the large quantities?

Looking for some guidance ... pool season is about six months long where we live.

Thanks, as always.
 
So, back at pool math, again.

Tested this morning at 3000 ppm, and system shows output as in the photos. Looks like well within the +/- 200 ppm.

So, ppm drifted up a bit from the 24 hour, and 30 hour numbers. If it is stable now, the original math works out pretty well. I'm going to fixate on 400 ppm/40# bag of salt for my pool size :)
 

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Either kit should be fine. I have the Taylor. What you really want is the FAS-DPD chlorine test. Do you need the big bottles? For the chlorine test, yes. pH, probably. TA and CH, maybe. CYA, maybe maybe not.

It’s my first season in blazing hot Houston with a zero shade pool. I’ve already had to order another bottle of FC juice and I had to play around with adding cya so I’m glad I have the big bottles for that.

Sounds like you like to test a lot so maybe get the big bottles (picking on you a bit, there ;) )
 

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