Switch to SWG?

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When you toggle the filter button, I believe it must go off before turning on to high and every time the pump starts, a new SWG cycle will also start.
 
mas985, right, but why would the SWCG turn off in Low Speed Filter setting after some period of time indicating percentage had been met - chlorine numbers in pool haven't really moved much ... flow switch still made and no cell warnings ...
 
So the SWG should stay on for 90 min and then shut off. If you hit the plus button while looking at the SWG readout, it will reset and start the cycle over. You can then time it from there to see if it is really running the proper cycle.
 
stephenson said:
mas985,

Is that in Low Speed, only? I'm assuming you would not want that happening in High Speed, right?
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That is how the SWCG operates, regardless. The Aquarite runs on a 180 minute cycle. At 50% setting, it is on the first 90 minutes, then off the next 90 minutes. Then it starts over. Unless you disrupt it by resetting it as Mark described.
 
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Ah - OK, now I think I'm getting it!

Since I had run it in High, but only for an hour or so, prior to selecting Low, it never got to the point on High to cycle. And, then, since I did leave it on low for at least 90 minutes it did cycle off, and since it is off for 90 minutes (long time) anytime I looked it would have indicated what I showed in the photos?

I started it in High, again, and shifted to Low to try and duplicate the circumstances .... timed out - got it.

BTW - is there a manual that has details like the 90 minute cycles - I don't recall seeing that anywhere.

Now, am I correct in assessing that a cell will create more chlorine on high speed pump settings since there is greater flow? Does this mean there is some tradeoff in power for the motor on high, vs the faster creation of chlorine at the same setting?

I used the + to set the 2700 PPM instant salt reading from Diagnostic, which changed the number in the default menu from 2900 PPM to 2700 PPM - should I have done this?

Given I am still at 2700 PPM average, should I hold here, or increase the salt to 3000-3200 +/- PPM? One 40 lb bag SHOULD increase by 384 PPM.
 
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No, there is no corollary between flow rate and chlorine production. CL production is primarily determined by the amps delivered by the SWG which does not change with flow rate.
 

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Good news - can leave on low which is more than sufficient for filtering, without decreasing output of chlorine - thanks mas985!

Goldmine on the reading link - thanks mknauss!

Is there a problem with me setting the cell to 100% until I get the chlorine up?
 
stephenson said:
Like so many others, I am considering doing this - mainly because of the shock of the cost of chlorine tabs - had not bought any in a couple of years, so ... WOW!

My irregular shaped gunite pool is about 13'x28', 3.5' shallow end and 5.8' deep end. These are conservative estimates/measurements. So, figure 13,000 gallons. Built in 2017. North Florida location.

Some say to size for 2x the volume ... so, 30,000 gallon size? But, manufactures rate by actual volume, so do they account for some engineering conservatism?

All my equipment is Hayward (see photos):
- ProLogic controller with hard wired remote
- Filter
- 2 speed pump
- UV Ozone Generator
- Chlorinator device
- 400K gas heater
- valve to allow return to both a "bubbler" in a shallow shelf area, and to several returns around the pool

Have read a bit, watched a few videos on installations, etc ... pretty straightforward. Given the layout, it would seem reasonable to plumb the SWG device/water flow sensor horizontally - starting with the heater discharge by repositioning the backflow valve further toward the house, then the SWG device, then the flow sensor, then plumb straight through the existing manual controller valve (removing the chlorination feeder)? If needed, I could extend the outflow from the heater toward the house a couple more inches, but it looks pretty darn close to what is recommended, most of the needed length determined by the flow sensor requirement.

The Hayward "AquaRite" device seems fine, but there are three cells available - 15K gallon, 40K gallon and 40,000 gallon with Extended Life TurboCell. Downside is that the Hayward solution is 2x the cost of some others - my reading indicates there are life span problems with all of them, so is there an advantage to Hayward vs Circupool, vs Jandy vs Pentair vs etc. There must be quality and reliability differences - in addition to the cost differences?
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Idk if I'm allowed to tell you this, but I don't see anything in the rules against it. We have a gently used ichlor 15 by Pentair for sale for $400. If you want to try swcg without paying full price. This is useful for pools up to 15,000 gallons and it works great. Its like new condition, very clean. Only used for two months at 1% running 4 hours per day. We can ship it to you anywhere.
 
Not sure about the rules, either. You can always start a private conversation for that type of stuff, if you prefer. @Newdude?

Usage hours would be a more useful sales pitch than the ol' "I only drove 'er to the store every other Sunday!" ;) From the iChlor manual:

Usage Hours Meter
The iChlor® SCG provides a built-in cell “hours used” meter that reports how many hours iChlor has been operating. The iChlor SCG is designed to operate for approximately 10,000 hours before replacement is needed or roughly five (5) years of average use.
To access the usage meter through Diagnostic mode:
Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit. The iChlor SCG will
enter its diagnostic mode, showing hours of operation on the display.
 
Dirk said:
Not sure about the rules, either. You can always start a private conversation for that type of stuff, if you prefer. @Newdude?
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This has come up a few times in the last year or so. PMs or the coffee bar are preferred as in both of today's instances, the OP already has a SWG now, way deep into their journey.

We also wouldn't let a total newb attempt to sell something. Deb, who has been around since June with posts across several threads, would be much less likely to harm a member.

Anything bought would always be at the buyers own risk, of course. To be fair to Deb, anything sold would be at the sellers own risk. :)
 
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Hi All,

The math worked! (yeah, it's suppose to :))

Waited about 30 hours, mostly on high pump speed, after the 40 lb bag I added yesterday - I also moved it all over the shallow end after I added. Was supposed to bring it to 3000 PPM ... just did the 1766 test kit and at drop 15 it turned salmon.

Just checked and the SWCG is reading 3000 PPM - just dropped on the reading to 2900 PPM ... +/- 200 so will wait to see.

So, assuming this reading stays consistent over a few days longer, should I add more salt to get closer to 3200? knauss had noted the Hayward works well on the lower end?

I set it to 100% to see how long it will take to show an increased in chlorine.
 
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Do not add salt. If the swcg is generating, all is good. In your area, you will have to add salt after rain overflow. So be ware of that.
 
OK - so a few days have passed with 5-8 hours a day of low speed SWCG operation at 100%.

This morning I checked chemistry with test strips - Total Chlorine was middle of OK color, Free Chlorine was a bit low, and all others in middle of OK color range. These had both come up from barely registering a few days ago.

Salt was at 3400 ppm so it has crept up from 3100-3200. I reset the cell to 75%, and then the SCWG turned off, saying "Chlorinator Off Percentage met." To make sure was still operational, I reset to 100% and it turned back on. Turned back to 75% and went off.

So, it seems like I should leave at 75% and watch to see when it kicks back on - and nurse it up to OK on Free Chlorine, then adjust time to keep filtered to match the % setting to keep chlorinated?

Will also watch the salt level as we get rain. Do I need to add water to dilute a bit, or just wait awhile?
 

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