Switch to SWG?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
I would not be concerned about the salt level unless the unit alarms. T-15 cells have a maximum of 8 amps after which the unit will shut down. What is the current amp draw?
 
mas,

Had timer set for two hours High, followed by four hours Low past two days, at 75%.

I tested chemistry this morning. Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine both in middle of OK range!

Given the rapid increase to normal chlorine levels I changed output to 50%, and pump to one hour High, followed by four hours Low.

It seems there are many "strategies" possible to address filter time, speed differences vs filter time, and various output rates for the SWCG cell. In theory, if the cell is simply rated based on hours in operation (not considering output setting) one would want to shoot for the shortest filter time, cell set to 100%, even at the expense of running on High, in order to minimize the time the cell is running?
 
Why do you have any run time at high speeds? Not necessary.

While some people on the forum run 24/7 at very low speeds, this is a preference and not mandatory. Some want a pristine pool free of surface debris 24/7 which requires the pump to run 24/7. If you don't mind a little debris in the pool during certain parts of the day/night, shorter run times are possible.

The most important factor is getting the appropriate FC levels into the pool. Once that happens, there is no need for any more run time unless there is something specific to be accomplished (e.g. skimming, heating, etc).

I have two skimmers and each requires about 15 GPM for the water to travel over the weir door for proper skimming action. So I set the pump to run at about 30 GPM during the run cycle.

During the winter I run for 3 hours per day which is one SWG cycle.

During the summer I run for about 9 hours per day, strictly for solar gain. SWG requires less run time.
 
Hmmm ... thanks.

My pool is screened (caged), and doesn't require much run time to keep clean - I try and learn how it behaves a bit each season.

My pump is only two speed, so whatever I get at Low is what I get.

One cycle is 3 hours for SWCG - right, but that includes the off portion of the cycle? 90 min on and 90 min off?

I'll eliminate the high setting altogether and see how it behaves.

Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jimrahbe
stephenson said:
mas,

Had timer set for two hours High, followed by four hours Low past two days, at 75%.

I tested chemistry this morning. Total Chlorine and Free Chlorine both in middle of OK range!

Given the rapid increase to normal chlorine levels I changed output to 50%, and pump to one hour High, followed by four hours Low.

It seems there are many "strategies" possible to address filter time, speed differences vs filter time, and various output rates for the SWCG cell. In theory, if the cell is simply rated based on hours in operation (not considering output setting) one would want to shoot for the shortest filter time, cell set to 100%, even at the expense of running on High, in order to minimize the time the cell is running?
Click to expand...

No, the cell's actual lifespan is going to be based on the hours actully cycled on and the chlorine generated -- so 2 hours a day at 100% is the same as 4 hours a day at 50% is the same as 8 hours a day at 25%. Time spent not generating is the same whether the power supply is fully off or cycled off; the cell doesn't care.

Now, whether the "10,000 hours" the companies quote is a true "on cycle" time or assuming a lower percentage is a different question. If, for example, they "cheat" and assume 50%, then the cell would last 5000 actual hours. But those 5000 hours wouldn't matter whether they were a total of 10,000 at 50% or 5000 at 100%, and the same chlorine needs get satisfied in either case. I'm not saying they do that, just picking an easy-math example!

The different strategies are more about what automation system people have (whether it's convenient to separate the SWCG run time from the pump's or not), how people prefer to have the chlorine distributed during the day and whether they want to run the pump longer or shorter for other reasons, etc. For example, I wanted app-based control so I can raise/lower from inside the house where I test away from the pool. Since I don't have other automation, I bought a cheap generic SWCG, set the dial to 100%, plugged it into a cheap outdoor WiFi plug, and change the end time in the app as needed. For $15 instead of the $$$$ cost of an automation system plus higher cost SWCG to communicate with it, I have complete control and am very happy with that solution!
 
Berger82 said:
Have a look at my thread. I have the same chlorinator and panel. I went with the vertical install and replaced the chlorinator...fit perfect. Had ZERO cuts during the install. Panel is easy to wire as well. Let me know if you have any questions...SWG install
Click to expand...
When you say you were able to make zero cuts for the swg install, how did you get the chlorinator out? Thank you.
 
Blockparty1 said:
When you say you were able to make zero cuts for the swg install, how did you get the chlorinator out? Thank you.
Click to expand...
It was a threaded union. Unscrewed the 2 unions, chlorinator came out. Glued in 2 1.5" (I think) pup pieces inside of the threaded union piece. Look at the photos in my post without the cell installed, and you should be able to make out the pieces Im talking about. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Quick update ...

Checked chemistry yesterday - TC and FC both higher than three days earlier - now in "Ideal" category on the test strip.

I left the six hour run time on Low Speed filter, and decreased cell to from 50% to 25%.

Ambient temperatures increasing with several days in mid-upper 70°Fs.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thats what I did with my run times as I am on a single speed pump. I run it from 9-10, 2-4, 7-8, this way I get my 4 hours of generating time in while also having the skimming spread out during the times I use the pool.
 
Hi All,

Been out of town for a month - thought would report in and see if I'm still OK.

After watching the water color and testing with strips (not the right way), and sampling for salt, I left the SWG set at 35%. While gone, my son stopped by to see if had any green buildup starting. Never did - and, this was while outside air temps and water temps were increasing.

Water is now 81F and air temp is mid to upper 80s.

So, just checked with test strip - both chlorines on the low end of the color scale, and the test kit for salt is 2800 ppm, and the display is also showing 2800 ppm.

I increased the cycle percentage 50%.

Should I increase the amount of salt, now, and ease up to around 3000 ppm?
 
Last edited:
With a Hayward cell (please fill out your signature, I had to go search for that) keep the salinity in the lower range. But do realize you get rain and overflow, so salinity will lower.
 
I little tough love? You know you should have a proper test kit, or at least you seem to claim you know that, and yet five months later (that you've been here) and still no test kit. We here at TFP practice and teach a very specific method of pool care which is based on, relies solely on, results from one of only two test kits. Definitely not test strips. You're probably going to end up with less and less help from here (especially when you need help with your chemistry) and/or a green pool, in which case you're really gonna need help from here, and not be able to get any, because you won't get a kit! (You can't properly fix a green pool without one. You can't properly maintain a pool without one!!)

We very much want you to be successful with your pool, but ya gotta help us help you.

And if we can convince you of that, then you can easily teach your son how to do the very simple FC test, so when he stops by when you're gone he can give you a useful report of your pool's FC level, instead of just guessing about whether you have algae or not (which doesn't always show up as "green buildup"). Because if it does look green, it's too late, and then you're going to have a big problem, especially in the summer.

With today's prices, the cost of the chlorine alone to rid yourself of an algae bloom will very likely be more than the cost of a test kit! And if you think you're too busy to get a kit and learn to use it, just wait until you have to deal with the time-suck that is dealing with algae. I just want to encourage you to think this through. Or not. Feel free to tell me to mind my own business. As is said here all the time... it's your pool, you can run it any way you want...
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply