SWG Not Working After 1.5mths & No Answer; & Phosphate Question

Floop

0
Bronze Supporter
Oct 1, 2018
26
Phoenix, AZ
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Edge-40
Having trouble with new SWG and very frustrated. Will try to nutshell as best I can as several things went wrong at once.

— new SWG end of July, worked perfectly for 1.5 months
— then started producing minimal chlorine output and something also seemed wrong with pump
— techs discovered neither swg nor pump getting proper voltage
— had to replace section of mainline from fuse box to pool equipment

As soon as line was replaced, multiple problems. Heat pump blew a significant leak, pool pump had 2 leaks and was clogging, swg worked on and off — but mostly off. Several texts with my pool equipment guy and did all of his suggestions.

Had leaks fixed, replaced some other minor things. Swg no output. Cleaned swg last weekend, installed new filter cartridges in pump.

All chems are balanced via the proper Taylor tests. No error lights on swg. Have tried swg Boost setting several times. Have overloaded with liquid chlorine to see if swg could step in and just maintain the level, rather than raise the level — nope.

It just doesn’t make sense. Called for warranty service (have Circupool Edge40). The guy said that 60% of swg’s that are sent in for service test fine. He then asked a lot questions about chems and I answered them. But then he asked about phosphates and nitrates. I thought I’ve read here that people don’t really rely on testing these levels. Do I have this wrong? In addition, my swg manual says if those 2 chems are off, your chlorine can quickly go to zero (manual pic attached).

Needless to say, I’m now confused. Any advice?

IMG_5240.jpeg
 
Are you testing salt with a Taylor K-1766?
Post a full set of tests.

When the cell is on 100%, do you get ANY bubbles out of the returns?
If no, the cell is not producing.
If yes, the do an overnight chlorine loss test to see if you have algae, even if you can't see it. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
It is possible that the algae is consuming everything the cell is producing.
If you fail OCLT, then SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
 
You can also do an overnight chlorine gain test.
Test FC after sunset.
Turn your cell on 90% (I would not run a cell at 100% for long periods of time, fastest way to kill a cell).
Test FC before sunrise.
An edge 40, in your pool, should raise FC by 6.9 in 10 hours at 90%. 10 hours at 45% would be 3.4/3.5.
If you don't see a significant gain, the cell is not producing.

Have you cleaned this cell with acid? How many times?
 
Yep using all the tests I’ve read about here. The ones in pic plus the more common ones like ph, cya, alk etcetera. All chems WNL.

The only chem thing that is odd to me is regarding the phosphates/ nitrates described above bc I thought people didn’t test for them.
 

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It’s new — it only ran for 1.5 months. We cleaned it last weekend even though everything looked spotless.

I could do the gain test but it pretty much has already been tested as described, just without me knowing I was testing for that. For example, I’d do an OCLT — but that same night the swg would be on Boost or the highest regular setting — in the morning there was no loss or gain.
 
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Without bubbles or overnight gain, cell is not producing. Doesn't tell you why...

What is the salt test result from your test kit?
 
What is WNL?

We don't test for phosphates/nitrates.
WNL — within normal limits; sorry — inadvertent medical speak lol.

Yes I realize people don’t test for it — that’s why I was posting about some confusion bc of the warranty discussion described and bc I found it very odd that the actual manual would state the information in the screenshot above. It’s one thing for Leslie’s to say stupid stuff but I find it odd to see such misinformation in an actual manual.
 

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It looks like the EDGE40 has a transparent cell housing. I don't have that CircuPool model, but when my cell is producing, I can clearly see tiny bubbles forming on the cell and flowing in the direction of the pool. I don't always see bubbles exiting the returns, especially if the pump is on high speed, but in any case you should see bubbles at the cell if the SWCG is working.
 
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Many SWGs (though not by any means all) shutdown when the salt level is too high. If they don't shut down and are not designed for this salt range the transformer can burn out.

Edge is rated for 3000-4500ppm Salt.

It is not clear what the edge does when salt is too high.
 
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Looking at your first post, since you replaced the electric service I presume you lost one side of the 240. Does the pump run on 240 and is the cell running at 240? Are both set correctly? The cell can go either way as might the pump. If you have 120 to the cell but it's set for 240 it might not work. Maybe the pump now has full power and so it created leaks? Kind of a shot in the dark there but having valves set wrong might have done it too. Put all the particulars of your pool and equipment into your signature so we don't have to ask questions about what you are running. What are the source of your test results? You don't report the CH level which is likely very high in this area.
 
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Let's start with a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared
Don't waste you time posting pool store test results or their recommendations.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Also, fill out your signature with pool, all pool equipment (include manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
Be detailed and specific.
This assists us in providing you help without needing to ask you each time for this important information.
 
I apologize for not including all the details, which I know are key. I’m laying down with a migraine today but thought I might be able to glean enough info — and the info has been great! But more help would be great.

I will get the addl info tomorrow and post. I do not use Leslie’s ever. Only use Pool Math, have for years. Only use Taylor. Only trust TFP. CH today was 500. Might be a little less bc my first test was a bit lower but probably best to assume higher for now.
 
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I edited my signature and it says it saved, but want to post this test and make sure. The reason I didn’t list an actual kit # for Taylor is bc when I started w/ TFP many years ago, I had a more basic kit and just kept adding to it until I reached the best practice kit recommendations at TFP.
 
Circupool hangs their hat on phosphates. They will not let you move forward without a test for them and treatment, if 'high' according to them.
There is no scientific evidence that phosphates can effect the creation of chlorine using a SWCG.
There IS some anecdotal evidence it has worked. No data other than 'it worked' to do a phosphate removal process and the SWCG began to produce its expected amount of chlorine.

So --- get a phosphate test at a pool store. If 'high' - get Orenda or SeaKlear phosphate remover. Do a treatment. See what happens.
 
The reason I didn’t list an actual kit # for Taylor is bc when I started w/ TFP many years ago, I had a more basic kit and just kept adding to it until I reached the best practice kit recommendations at TFP.
Based on your signature, it appears you have the equivalent of a Taylor K-2006 or K-2006 Salt (if you have the salt testing reagents as well). It would be safe to enter that kit into your signature.
How old are your reagents?
Be sure to watch the forums and your email in March for the complete kit reagent refill sale.
 
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