I believe the recommendation here is to use liquid chlorine rather than the pucks because the pucks contain other chemicals that affect other factors (CYA?). Whereas the liquid chlorine only affects the FC.
SWG - No FC???
- Thread starter RookWDW
- Start date
I was wrong before. I have actually added 8 LBS of stabilizer and have something below 30 according to my test and 22 per the LPS. I just got another 4 lbs and will add half and give it a few days.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,740
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you have added 8 lbs of stabilizer your pool has over 50 ppm CYA in it if 18000 gallons. I would not add anymore until you determine your testing error.
Do not put pucks in the skimmer. The acidic stew will destroy the skimmer, is hard on pump seals and will eat away at your heater.
Do not put pucks in the skimmer. The acidic stew will destroy the skimmer, is hard on pump seals and will eat away at your heater.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've tested and retested several times and get the same results for CYA.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,740
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
TF Pro CYA test.
Add pool water to first line (7.5ml) in dropper bottle. Then add R0013 reagent to the next line, 15 ml.
Swirl the bottle well to mix. Let the sample sit for several minutes.
Take the CYA test vial and dropper bottle with sample outside. Holding the vial at the top rim, waist level, back to the sun, add your water mix to the 100 line. Glance at the dot, see it, add to the 90 level. Repeat until you do not see the dot with a GLANCE. Then use the next highest number for your CYA. If you stop at the 40 line, use 50.
Add pool water to first line (7.5ml) in dropper bottle. Then add R0013 reagent to the next line, 15 ml.
Swirl the bottle well to mix. Let the sample sit for several minutes.
Take the CYA test vial and dropper bottle with sample outside. Holding the vial at the top rim, waist level, back to the sun, add your water mix to the 100 line. Glance at the dot, see it, add to the 90 level. Repeat until you do not see the dot with a GLANCE. Then use the next highest number for your CYA. If you stop at the 40 line, use 50.
That adds 10 to the result on top of rounding up. Let's say the actual value is 32. The dot is visible at 30, gone at 40. Your method calls it 50. Just using the first number where the dot disappears is already rounding up to the next 10, and is consistent with the test instructions.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,740
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The above is not possible. The lines come up from the bottom. So if you see the dot at 40, but not at 30, you use 40.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Thanks
I was not holding at waist level, was not glancing, and did not let it sit several minutes only 30 seconds. However, having just followed that procedure I still can see the dot easily when filled to the top of the tube (which is a bit hard as the tube has cracked near the top).
I was not holding at waist level, was not glancing, and did not let it sit several minutes only 30 seconds. However, having just followed that procedure I still can see the dot easily when filled to the top of the tube (which is a bit hard as the tube has cracked near the top).
- May 3, 2014
- 62,740
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What stabilizer did you use? 8 lbs is 8 lbs. Chemistry says it is in the pool water. I assume you added it using the sock method.
Its Poollife Sabilizer and Conditioner. CYA 98.5%
www.poolgeek.com
Yes I used the sock method and it slowlyl released over the course of the day each time. I added half a bottle, 2 lbs, each dose. Got 2 bottles as the instructions suggested I would need 1.5 bottles or 6 lbs.
I think I'm going to order the Pentair CYA kit and see if that shows a different reading.
Poolife Stabilizer & Conditioner
Poolife Stabilizer & Conditioner raises the cyanuric acid (CYA) level of your pool. To prevent the sun from breaking down your chlorine a CYA level of 20-50ppm is recommended.
www.poolgeek.com
Yes I used the sock method and it slowlyl released over the course of the day each time. I added half a bottle, 2 lbs, each dose. Got 2 bottles as the instructions suggested I would need 1.5 bottles or 6 lbs.
I think I'm going to order the Pentair CYA kit and see if that shows a different reading.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,740
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The CYA is in the water. I would treat it as such for now. I do not know why you cannot test with the TFPro test. If you find another test gives you a different result, contact [email protected] to discuss the issue.
I’m wondering if my high phosphates are causing the SWG to not work properly. Difference websites and article suggest yes or no. Including some posts on here. If that’s possible that could be the cause of both the low FC and the cloudy water. I’ve put a lot of different metal products in our pool to deal with the high iron and I now see that is a big source of phosphates. I assume, but don’t know, that the LPS test was for all forms of phosphates and would include the bad organophosphate and the less bad that is bound up in still working Sequestrant agents.
My though is the following.
1. SLAM. To at least eliminate any chance it’s algae based. During this I expect the iron sequestrants to be used up resulting in higher phosphates and the iron to settle out causing brown water. I will run the DE filter non stop and backwash often hoping to eliminate some metals. I can also run my makeshift poly fill filter
Then test phosphates again and see if my SWG is then able to maintain proper FC levels. If the SWG is not able to keep up that suggests maybe the SAwG isn’t working correctly, then either:
2a. Use a Seaklear phosphate remover, or
2b. Use an Alum Floc that appears (???) to precipitate both phosphates and metals
3. Use only non phosphate sequestrants from here on out as needed.
thoughts on this plan?
Here is where I’ve been reading about this
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
aquamagazine.com
My though is the following.
1. SLAM. To at least eliminate any chance it’s algae based. During this I expect the iron sequestrants to be used up resulting in higher phosphates and the iron to settle out causing brown water. I will run the DE filter non stop and backwash often hoping to eliminate some metals. I can also run my makeshift poly fill filter
Then test phosphates again and see if my SWG is then able to maintain proper FC levels. If the SWG is not able to keep up that suggests maybe the SAwG isn’t working correctly, then either:
2a. Use a Seaklear phosphate remover, or
2b. Use an Alum Floc that appears (???) to precipitate both phosphates and metals
3. Use only non phosphate sequestrants from here on out as needed.
thoughts on this plan?
Here is where I’ve been reading about this
Sequestrant - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Metal Magic and general sequestrant questions
Several months ago, following a sponge test, I used Metal Magic to help reduce the copper stains in our plaster-surfaced pool. At the time, due to carelessness, I didn't lower the FC to 1 or 2, but kept it at 4. Many stains were removed, but some light stains have returned. I don't think I...
www.troublefreepool.com
Failing Salt Generators: The Phosphate Connection
When a salt chlorine generator begins to fail it will not produce sufficient free chlorine to keep up with demand. One possible cause is the presence of phosphates in the pool water.
aquamagazine.com
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
There is anecdotal evidence that lower phosphates will help the performance of an SWG. And some SWG manufacturers require you to lower it for them to honor warranty issues. So yeah. maybe. But I haven't read any hard science on the point. As with anything here, we recommend you do your own testing. Taylor has a phosphate test, K-1106, they sell it on Amazon for about 30 bux. I didn't see what your readings were. If you do decide to treat for phosphates, the SeaKlear 90207 (1040105) product is the higher concentration remover. Don't use a floc, that will make a mess of your filter. Let the Phosphate remover drop out on its own and vac to waste and then flush your filter of the precipitate it does suck up.
It's going to rain here the next few days so seems this morning is a good time to start the SLAM.
Update. I'm a moron. The pool guy said my pool was 18,000 and I listened. I just measured and it is NOT 16x32 it is 18x36.5 3' and 8' depth. So it looks to be more around 27,000 gallons (I"ll have to figure out that ALK method to determine closer volume). Based on that I'm going to slam assuming CYA is 30. I have ordered the Pentair CYA kit and the Taylor Phosphate kit.
I'll have to get more chlorine as the two cases likely isn't going to cut it. Bring on the brown water ....
EDIT: the water volume might be why my salt cell isn't working as I think it should. the IChlor-30 is for pools upto 30,000. If my pool is 27,000 I'm guessing I need it running near 100% to generate the chlorine I need. Which pisses me off as I told them I wanted a system for twice my pool size and they are the ones that said it was 18,000 gallons.
Update. I'm a moron. The pool guy said my pool was 18,000 and I listened. I just measured and it is NOT 16x32 it is 18x36.5 3' and 8' depth. So it looks to be more around 27,000 gallons (I"ll have to figure out that ALK method to determine closer volume). Based on that I'm going to slam assuming CYA is 30. I have ordered the Pentair CYA kit and the Taylor Phosphate kit.
I'll have to get more chlorine as the two cases likely isn't going to cut it. Bring on the brown water ....
EDIT: the water volume might be why my salt cell isn't working as I think it should. the IChlor-30 is for pools upto 30,000. If my pool is 27,000 I'm guessing I need it running near 100% to generate the chlorine I need. Which pisses me off as I told them I wanted a system for twice my pool size and they are the ones that said it was 18,000 gallons.
Last edited:
Test this morning:
FC 0.5
CC 0.5
FC from return jet after cranking SWG to 100% - 1.5
CYA still below the lowest the test shows
Turned SWG to 100%, added two gallons 12.5% chlorine. I'll test in a few hours to see where I am at and add more as necessary. Depending on how much water volume I do have I may need another 1/2 to 1 gallon.
FC 0.5
CC 0.5
FC from return jet after cranking SWG to 100% - 1.5
CYA still below the lowest the test shows
Turned SWG to 100%, added two gallons 12.5% chlorine. I'll test in a few hours to see where I am at and add more as necessary. Depending on how much water volume I do have I may need another 1/2 to 1 gallon.
Last edited:
amwillg
Gold Supporter
- Apr 5, 2021
- 38
- Pool Size
- 34000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Autopilot Digital PPC4 (RC-52)
I read from the beginning and was wondering why you kept saying 50% on the SWG was high. Wasn't until last few posts that I realized your signature was recently updated to the 27000 gallons from the 18000.
Yeah, for the 27K the SWG will need to run basically at 100% 24/7. That's how they rate the max size of the generator. This will not get a pool up to level, just maintain the level. Need to use liquid chlorine to get the right FC level to start with.
Yeah, for the 27K the SWG will need to run basically at 100% 24/7. That's how they rate the max size of the generator. This will not get a pool up to level, just maintain the level. Need to use liquid chlorine to get the right FC level to start with.