mguzzy
Gold Supporter
I dunno, I'm brain storming. do you know any cave divers?
And yes you can swim as long as the FC is at or below SLAM according to the FC/CYA Levels
SWG - No FC???
- Thread starter RookWDW
- Start date
And yes you can swim as long as the FC is at or below SLAM according to the FC/CYA Levels
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
7am FC - 8 added half gallon (should have boosted to10.5)
8:15 pool guy test said FC - 9 (pool was open to sun for about an hour)
9:30/10am backwashed, added a 1/2 to an inch of new water, added a gallon (gallon +5, sun loss and new water maybe even overall)
11:30 -FC 13. (seems right, maybe high in retrospect, I think I tested right)
3:30 - FC back to 8.5 (Dang) - added a half gallon (should boost to 11ppm)
Just now 8.45 pm
FC 9.5 (Dang) - added a gallon (should boost to 14.5ppm). unplugged SWG. Going to test at 10ish for an OCLT.
Expecting poor results and perhaps a morning drink.
Checked under the cover as best I could. Could see about 15 feet and no signs of issues. Skimmer clean. didn't dive in to check the lights or the drain.
Current guesses:
1. DE filter is coated in awfulness. I'm slightly afraid I'll screw up the filter trying to open and clean it.
2. CYA is really low, somehow, and I need to add yet another 2 lbs.
3. Phosphates are insane and causing some ugliness (yes I know)
4. The enormous amounts of sequestrant agents I put in are eating all of the FC while slowly (due to the low 7.2 pH) degrading, and I'll have an awful brown pool once it finishes the process (please God no).
5. Bacteria (if my morning loss is bad I'm going to LPS to test for ammonia to (hopefully) rule that out.
Just for fun, either micro bubbles or DE is coming out of the return jets in the stairs. Both of which are leak points that I had fixed via epoxy, with the leak company said could start to leak any time - or, the DE setup is leaking DE into the pool. Not sure which I want to happen least.
8:15 pool guy test said FC - 9 (pool was open to sun for about an hour)
9:30/10am backwashed, added a 1/2 to an inch of new water, added a gallon (gallon +5, sun loss and new water maybe even overall)
11:30 -FC 13. (seems right, maybe high in retrospect, I think I tested right)
3:30 - FC back to 8.5 (Dang) - added a half gallon (should boost to 11ppm)
Just now 8.45 pm
FC 9.5 (Dang) - added a gallon (should boost to 14.5ppm). unplugged SWG. Going to test at 10ish for an OCLT.
Expecting poor results and perhaps a morning drink.
Checked under the cover as best I could. Could see about 15 feet and no signs of issues. Skimmer clean. didn't dive in to check the lights or the drain.
Current guesses:
1. DE filter is coated in awfulness. I'm slightly afraid I'll screw up the filter trying to open and clean it.
2. CYA is really low, somehow, and I need to add yet another 2 lbs.
3. Phosphates are insane and causing some ugliness (yes I know)
4. The enormous amounts of sequestrant agents I put in are eating all of the FC while slowly (due to the low 7.2 pH) degrading, and I'll have an awful brown pool once it finishes the process (please God no).
5. Bacteria (if my morning loss is bad I'm going to LPS to test for ammonia to (hopefully) rule that out.
Just for fun, either micro bubbles or DE is coming out of the return jets in the stairs. Both of which are leak points that I had fixed via epoxy, with the leak company said could start to leak any time - or, the DE setup is leaking DE into the pool. Not sure which I want to happen least.
9:55pm
FC - 14ppm (to be perfectly clear, only a very slight tint at 13.5ppm)
CC - 0.5 (maybe, it was a very slight tint that cleared with one drop
Question. If I run the system for say 4 exact hours covered and test FC before and after. Then do the same thing for 4 hours with the filter on recirculate, wont that tell me if the FC loss has anything to do with the DE filter?
FC - 14ppm (to be perfectly clear, only a very slight tint at 13.5ppm)
CC - 0.5 (maybe, it was a very slight tint that cleared with one drop
Question. If I run the system for say 4 exact hours covered and test FC before and after. Then do the same thing for 4 hours with the filter on recirculate, wont that tell me if the FC loss has anything to do with the DE filter?
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,576
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No need to test for ammonia. You would lose all of your FC immediately if that were the case.
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
With my de filters, after backwash I usually recharged with 3-4 of the de cups
6:30am - SWG still off
FC - 8.5 ugh
CC - 0.5
OCLT = 5.5ppm
Added a gallon. should bring back to 13.5
I guess I'm going to attempt to open the DE filter and pray I don't screw something up, and add 2 lbs CYA.
If neither of those work I'm going to add some Seaklear Phosphate remover.
FC - 8.5 ugh
CC - 0.5
OCLT = 5.5ppm
Added a gallon. should bring back to 13.5
I guess I'm going to attempt to open the DE filter and pray I don't screw something up, and add 2 lbs CYA.
If neither of those work I'm going to add some Seaklear Phosphate remover.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Looking at your list I would pull your filter apart and give it a good cleaning. "coated in awefulness" sounds like a source of bio crud build up. In case you haven't found this article in the wiki on how to clean your grids:
DE Filter Use and Care - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Define insane phosphates. Are you testing for phosphates yourself? Taylor has a phosphate test kit.
I don't know for sure the DE filter is coated in awfulness. I'm just guessing that to be one possibility for my problems. I do know every time I backwash the looking glass show dark brown sludge coming out.
Phosphates per two different LPS test were 4348 and 4604. Both using the electronic testing systems. I have the Taylor test arriving tomorrow along with a bottle of the Seaklear and the Pentair CYA test kit.
Phosphates per two different LPS test were 4348 and 4604. Both using the electronic testing systems. I have the Taylor test arriving tomorrow along with a bottle of the Seaklear and the Pentair CYA test kit.
What gets me is the water at the start of this was already very clear. It's insanely clear now. Very little debri, leaves, etc. I've been skimming and brushing it daily even thought there is virtually nothing to skim. Tiny bit of dirt on the liner seam. But for the FC loss I'd say it was Dang perfect.
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Here's how I used to clean my big one: once drained and open I would hose the grids right in the filter letting all the yuck come out the removed drain plug, once I got most of it off then would lift the grids out to the yard and do a careful hose down... then just replace and put back together.. I would fire everything on making sure no leaks then add my full DE amount to skimmer.. I did that twice a year once at season prep around mar/apr and again in Oct/Nov
Before and after pics.it’s of rust staining. I hope that black isn’t an issues. The before was after backwashing three times.
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
Yup mine looked like that too so its good to get the gummed up de off & full charge
I was expecting (maybe hoping) it would be much worse, covered in algae or slime. At least then I’d have a likely cause fixed. My guess is while this was worthwhile it wasn’t my problem.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,616
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It is in the same chlorinated water as your pool. Algae will not survive in a filter under SLAM conditions. Algae also needs sunlight to grow.
10:15am
FC 12.5
CC - less than 0.5 Barely any color to the water, but not clear
DE filter back running at 12 lbs. 6 lbs DE added. Seems to be working. I inspected and didn't see any cracks in the plastic parts and could not see any tears or gaps in the filter fabric. Had to run to Ace to get some silicon grease for the o-rings. Fired it up to backwash first, then rinse, then filter. Primed and filled no problem. I'm getting a tiny amount of micro bubbles in the return jets, not sure what that is about but it was happening a bit before. I don't see any leaks and I got the air out of the filter. I "think" I have the clamp on tight enough as it isn't leaking. Also cleaned the filter basket which had very little in it.
I checked and there was no slime inside the filter, the pump, or on the liner.
It definitely is not the filter, at least now, if the FC keeps dropping. I'll monitor today and tomorrow I get the PO4 and CYA tests. After that, I'm out of ideas.
FC 12.5
CC - less than 0.5 Barely any color to the water, but not clear
DE filter back running at 12 lbs. 6 lbs DE added. Seems to be working. I inspected and didn't see any cracks in the plastic parts and could not see any tears or gaps in the filter fabric. Had to run to Ace to get some silicon grease for the o-rings. Fired it up to backwash first, then rinse, then filter. Primed and filled no problem. I'm getting a tiny amount of micro bubbles in the return jets, not sure what that is about but it was happening a bit before. I don't see any leaks and I got the air out of the filter. I "think" I have the clamp on tight enough as it isn't leaking. Also cleaned the filter basket which had very little in it.
I checked and there was no slime inside the filter, the pump, or on the liner.
It definitely is not the filter, at least now, if the FC keeps dropping. I'll monitor today and tomorrow I get the PO4 and CYA tests. After that, I'm out of ideas.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,616
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40