SWCG recommendation?

Brant

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2024
174
Boerne Texas
Will be finishing up a build in the next few months. 24k gallons, in TX. Originally purchased all pentair equipment and was planning on using a tab feeder. Now I'm thinking about adding a SWCG. Should I purchase a pentair unit since all the equipment is pentair or go with an aftermarket unit? I'm not sure what retrofitting one onto my existing system will take. I assume it's relatively straightforward???

What's my best option for affordable, reliable and easy to install/use (if all that can even be had on one package)? Is pentair the way to go, or is their a better option?
 
Brant,

Do you have a Pentair automation system???

If you do, then you really need a Pentair cell.

How big in gallons is your pool? You need a cell that is rated at least 2 x the volume of your pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Will be finishing up a build in the next few months. 24k gallons, in TX. Originally purchased all pentair equipment and was planning on using a tab feeder. Now I'm thinking about adding a SWCG. Should I purchase a pentair unit since all the equipment is pentair or go with an aftermarket unit? I'm not sure what retrofitting one onto my existing system will take. I assume it's relatively straightforward???

What's my best option for affordable, reliable and easy to install/use (if all that can even be had on one package)? Is pentair the way to go, or is their a better option?
Do you have Pentair automation?
 
planning on using a tab feeder.
don’t plan on relying on tabs as your primary chlorine source. You will live to regret it and be back in two years on this forum asking why your pool is green and how can you bring down your skyrocketing cya.

Sounds like youve done the research and realized thats not the way to go but just saying it out loud
 
Yes, intellicenter
Then I would purchase the IC60 which is 2x your pool volume and is the biggest unit Pentair makes for residential service.
If you are still in build process, Pentair will sell a package of IntelliCenter, IC60 and 2 valve actuators. Normally cheaper than individual purchase. Also, you get 3 year warranty if you purchase 3 Pentair items such as pump, automation, heater, filter, SWCG. So do some checking with builder if you can obtain the discounted package and also have extended warranty.
 
don’t plan on relying on tabs as your primary chlorine source. You will live to regret it and be back in two years on this forum asking why your pool is green and how can you bring down your skyrocketing cya.

Sounds like youve done the research and realized thats not the way to go but just saying it out loud
I think if a person blindly feeds a pool tablets then I agree with what your saying. I also know it can be maintained if your know what your doing and use a combination of products and not just tablets. Its seems that a lot of people on this forum assume everyone using tab feeders are idiots.

I know there are no magic bullets and SWG seem to be no exception to this. I have friends with both setups. You'll spend money on acid if not chlorine. The idea that a SWG is cheaper is a lie. It is a cheaper form of chlorine vs liquid but it comes at a cost elsewhere.
 
Each puck will raise you 1 CYA and 2.3 FC. Yes you can use pucks of you watch the CYA, but if you need 12 pucks a week using 4 FC a day in TX, your FC target needs to be raised weekly. One month in the peak season will raise the CYA by 30ish. It spirals out of control quickly.

The one silver lining is all that acid keeps the Ph low. Ditching the pucks will create the same MA appetite for LC or SWG.
 
Each puck will raise you 1 CYA and 2.3 FC. Yes you can use pucks of you watch the CYA, but if you need 12 pucks a week using 4 FC a day in TX, your FC target needs to be raised weekly. One month in the peak season will raise the CYA by 30ish. It spirals out of control quickly.

The one silver lining is all that acid keeps the Ph low. Ditching the pucks will create the same MA appetite for LC or SWG.
So if you use liquid chlorine, you still end up using a bunch of MA?
 

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So if you use liquid chlorine, you still end up using a bunch of MA?
Most see a similar weekly need/dose, yes. And I mis mathed above. If using tabs exclusively you'd add 50 CYA per month. If you split the additions between tabs and other forms with 40% tabs, you'd still gain 20 CYA per month. You need more CYA in TX with the insane UV so you'd either have to start low and lose more FC, or quickly get too high if you started in range.
 
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Its seems that a lot of people on this forum assume everyone using tab feeders are idiots.
I'd also like to touch on this. If folks are keeping tabs on the CYA (pun intended) then we're fine with using them. But Oh so many don't and we are having them do a large drain a short time later.

We prefer beating it to the punch because very few newbs pay attention or even understand how all the pieces fit together yet. So we tell them to ditch the tabs until they have a solid grasp on everything and have the skills to use them as needed without harm. :)
 
Muriatic acid will need to be added whether you use liquid chlorine or a SWG.
I use the same amount of acid yearly with my SWG as I used with liquid chlorine.
Many times, once your TA is 60-ish, your pH will settle in the high 7's (7.8-7.9) and you will add minimal muriatic acid.

A SWG is cheaper over the long term as compared to liquid chlorine.
Maintaining the pool using TFP methods is essential.
Maintaining CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range will minimize any cell scaling.

While I may lose maybe 10 ppm CYA is the excessive heat of summer, the continuous use of tabs is not sustainable in my environment.

Once a SWG is dialed in, leaving for weeks at a time isn't a concern.
 
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Personally, I don’t see the appeal of using tabs when one knows their effects. It’s a constant juggling act/moving target between FC, CYA, pH, and TA.

Of course every pool is different, but in our case, it’s far easier to use a SWCG (20 years and counting). Once adjusting TA to the lower end many years ago, pH is stable all season. I’ve never have to add MA or adjust TA. CYA only needs to be bumped up a little every 6 weeks or so. FC is very stable. I keep FC a few ppm above target, NEVER allowing it to dip below TFP target level. As such, I never have to SLAM during the season.

PS - I don’t believe anyone here ever called tab feeder users “idiots”. 🙄
 
Its seems that a lot of people on this forum assume everyone using tab feeders are idiots.
Not at all.
Most tablet users are unaware of the side effects of using tabs.

What is most important is knowing exactly what the pool chemicals you are using are and what they add to the pool water. Tabs can have their place in pool chemistry management for some users - as long as they are aware of the side effects.
 
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It is a cheaper form of chlorine vs liquid but it comes at a cost elsewhere.
Brant,

If you do not yet have the IntelliCenter, then you need to get the IntelliCenter that comes with the built in SWCG power center and IC60 salt cell..


Idiots or not, Saltwater pools are cheaper and easer to maintain.. The 'extra' cost for MA is in the noise if you maintain your pool using the TFP pool care methods.

I have three saltwater pools in the DFW area.. And I don't have any 'other' costs... What other costs are there???

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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You'll spend money on acid if not chlorine
Also, also wanted to touch on this. 😁

Your pool (assuming plaster) will have a healthy MA appetite the first year while the plaster cures. After that, if we get you dialed in, a weekly Ph dose from 8.2 to 7.8 would be 13 oz of MA. The $10 gallon from Ace Hardware will last 2.3 months. (Your Ace Hardware is opening in August per the interwebs).

So yes you will spend money on acid, but no you will never notice it in the monthly expenses. It's gonna suck for the first year though, brace yourself for 2 or 3 times a week. It'll still be cheap in the grand scheme of things ($10 every 3 weeks), but you'll think you're forever chasing the Ph.
 
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My 22 year old pool that has had one acid wash about 4 years ago uses 16 - 24oz of MA every week whether I'm on my SWG or liquid chlorine. I use 1/2 gallon of LC per day. This is a pool that is full sun from 9am to 4pm and partial shade otherwise. Lots of them U's and V's bouncing off the water.
 
Also, also wanted to touch on this. 😁

Your pool (assuming plaster) will have a healthy MA appetite the first year while the plaster cures. After that, if we get you dialed in, a weekly Ph dose from 8.2 to 7.8 would be 13 oz of MA. The $10 gallon from Ace Hardware will last 2.3 months. (Your Ace Hardware is opening in August per the interwebs).

So yes you will spend money on acid, but no you will never notice it in the monthly expenses. It's gonna suck for the first year though, brace yourself for 2 or 3 times a week. It'll still be cheap in the grand scheme of things ($10 every 3 weeks), but you'll think you're forever chasing the Ph.
I wonder if my buddy isn't managing his SW pool correctly then. He is dumping in MA all the time. Or at least he makes it sound this way. I seen like 8 gallons of the stuff in his garage. He's on his 3rd summer with his pool.
 
My 22 year old pool that has had one acid wash about 4 years ago uses 16 - 24oz of MA every week whether I'm on my SWG or liquid chlorine. I use 1/2 gallon of LC per day. This is a pool that is full sun from 9am to 4pm and partial shade otherwise. Lots of them U's and V's bouncing off the water.
Well, that generator is paying for itself then. My pool is full sun in texas. I assume it will use a lot of chlorine.
 

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