SWCG Lights go on then off

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You can move the pump power wires to the line terminals and keep the Aquarite on the load terminals. That way, the pump will stay powered and the Aquarite will follow the timer settings.

What are all of the diagnostic readings when you press the little black button?

Is the water temperature accurate?

Here is a circuit board if you need it.

Goldline Controls Hayward Aquarite Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Salt Chlorination System - GLX-PCB-RITE - INYOPools.com

Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE (Goldline)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
 
JamesW said:
It's probably a bad thermistor. The system is at least 14 years old.


That might indicate a bad board. It should not say Cold when the cell is removed.

I would replace the thermistor and see if it works from there.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ametherm/SL32-2R025/570-1062-ND/363379
Click to expand...
Sorry, I forgot to give you the s/n of the board... 015005A-20 51469. Yes, you're about right, I installed it around 2006 or so! That's when I converted it to salt water. Then, last year or so, I replaced the pump due to old pump failure, w/a variable speed!
 
JamesW said:
You can move the pump power wires to the line terminals and keep the Aquarite on the load terminals. That way, the pump will stay powered and the Aquarite will follow the timer settings.

What are all of the diagnostic readings when you press the little black button?

Is the water temperature accurate?

Here is a circuit board if you need it.

Goldline Controls Hayward Aquarite Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Salt Chlorination System - GLX-PCB-RITE - INYOPools.com

Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE (Goldline)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...
Thanks a million! I already ordered the thermistor.
 
JamesW said:
You can move the pump power wires to the line terminals and keep the Aquarite on the load terminals. That way, the pump will stay powered and the Aquarite will follow the timer settings.

What are all of the diagnostic readings when you press the little black button?

Is the water temperature accurate?

Here is a circuit board if you need it.

Goldline Controls Hayward Aquarite Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Salt Chlorination System - GLX-PCB-RITE - INYOPools.com

Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE (Goldline)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...
Oh, sorry, fast on the trigger finger...
Salt at 3100
Temp: 64 (about right)
Voltage: 17.1 (lights on)
Current: 0 (generating light on)
Chlorine output: 95%
Instantsalinity: Goes from -4100 to 0 VERY quick.
AL: 0
r 1.40
 
Yasuo new member, I just read your avatar! I'm late to the party on this thread, @JamesW is one of our resident gurus, and he has you on the right track with the Thermister replacement, its a cheap part and easy to replace. I did the same on mine some years back and its still chugging along. There is a cheap and easy test of the thermister, where you put a binder clip on it (yeah the one that holds together a stack of paper). It seems often that simple clamp is enough to nudge it back into operation. I used it as a a temp fix and really more of a diagnostic tool until my thermistor showed up in the mail.
 
mguzzy said:
Yasuo new member, I just read your avatar! I'm late to the party on this thread, @JamesW is one of our resident gurus, and he has you on the right track with the Thermister replacement, its a cheap part and easy to replace. I did the same on mine some years back and its still chugging along. There is a cheap and easy test of the thermister, where you put a binder clip on it (yeah the one that holds together a stack of paper). It seems often that simple clamp is enough to nudge it back into operation. I used it as a a temp fix and really more of a diagnostic tool until my thermistor showed up in the mail.
Click to expand...
Well, I tried it, didn't seem to have any effect, but I left it on until the new one shows up in the mail!
Efharisto!
 

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Thank you guys; James & mguzzy (sorry, IDK your name) you guys made me feel welcome! AND you solved my problem!
One last question, a simple one, the admin, sorry, forgot his name, said I need to put ALL my info in my sig. I thought I did, am I missing something? I've no problem listing it, just new to the group, which BTW is one of the best forums I've been on!
Σας ευχαριστω, γεια!
 
JamesW said:
Νομίζω ότι η υπογραφή σας είναι καλή. Ακολουθεί μια αναφορά για περισσότερες πληροφορίες.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Not too bad for not being Greek, but then again, IDK if you are! Anyways, I added more info per instructions. DO let me know if I'm missing anything or if it's wrong. Ευχαριστω!
 
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JamesW said:
You can move the pump power wires to the line terminals and keep the Aquarite on the load terminals. That way, the pump will stay powered and the Aquarite will follow the timer settings.

What are all of the diagnostic readings when you press the little black button?

Is the water temperature accurate?

Here is a circuit board if you need it.

Goldline Controls Hayward Aquarite Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Salt Chlorination System - GLX-PCB-RITE - INYOPools.com

Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE (Goldline)
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com
Click to expand...

Well, I rewired the old timer (Intermatic T104) back in, but ONLY the SWG, since the pump has its own. Worked fine for a day, then the motor quit! My luck! I guess it's time, it's old, like me! I'll order a new one, unless someone has better suggestion!
 

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