swap out Hayward panel/Jacuzzi cell for Jacuzzi panel/cell or figure out what problem is?

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
You didn't answer my question.

If you have historically ran your Hayward SWG at salt levels of 3200-4000 that contributed to your board failure.

For the Hayward SWG you should run it at the lower end of it's range 2800-3000.

The control board sets the amps based on the cells salinity reading. Higher salinity will generate higher amps. Amps over 8 can overheat the thermistor. If the amps are 8.0 or higher after you replace the thermistor, you should reduce the salinity to prevent repeated failures.

Running the SWG at lower salinity keeps the amps low which reduces the heat on the board and the component failures.
Allen, Historically I keep levels around 2700-2900. Any other ideas what could've burnt the board? I asked the pb an he had no ideas. There was the comment here about lightening storms. I wonder if it could be a something else in the configuration. I'll make a note about the salt. Glad I prefer to keep it low! My idea was always to keep it lower so it's less salt damage around the pool. We should be getting the panel put back in hoping within the hour and I'll report back. thx!
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
soldered the k1 and looked like it was working well. i was excitd. this was about an hour ago. i went out, brushed, and tested the salt after it was running for a bit and it measured 3400. I realize the pb was the one who dumped all that salt in the pool a few mths ago when they came out to start up the pool due to a warranty issue and we had to empty to pool and they started it up for us.

With this whole mess, I also noticed algae in the pool. I thought I hadn't gotten the FC under 1 the whole time since the panel went out accept when we noticed the panel went out. I've been adding about 1/3 - 1/2 gallon chlorine each day and keeping it above 1 FC at all times. I went to look at the panel and the check system light is back on and the high salt/amp message is back. I'm extremely frustrated with pb if it's true that this high salt caused this problem and i'm leaving town for 4 days tomorrow. Each gallon of chlorine I add adds more salt and I dont' have time to deal with this. I dont' think it would make sense to fix the panel again unless I lower the salt but on the panel Hayward says it's ok to keep it up to 3400 so that's a bit confusing. pb would never say this is a problem.

i'm wondering what to do as I dont' want the algae to get out of hand while i'm gone and may be able to have someone add a gallon a day and then empty several inches of my pool when i return? what a waste of water. it's only like 5 mths old. :( what to do
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
and ofcourse i'll have to do a SLAM when i get back. option 2: anyone know how much salt can be in the pool with a circupool SWG? I'm not sure if they r much better should I get one of those? my cheap generic cell is only a handful mths old, though, and I still need the motherboard for the automation so trying to figure out what makes most sense. at least it's running the pool, just not the SWG.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,630
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You want to add more like 5ppm of chlorine per day to keep algae on hold until you can do the SLAM Process
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
here was the repair. I noticed the solder had a tip but was not pointed up like the others. I thought it made a connection with something but I see now it doesn't so I figured the solder job was fine. the repair guy said it was a relay.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20210902-192629_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20210902-192629_Gallery.jpg
    215.8 KB · Views: 6
  • 20210902_173538.jpg
    20210902_173538.jpg
    257.4 KB · Views: 6
  • 20210902_173546.jpg
    20210902_173546.jpg
    375.8 KB · Views: 7

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
wierd thing, i just brushed my pool after 5 gallons of chlorine and no white "powder" so hopefully I'm mistaken and there's no algae. I'll do an overnight measure. I saw some black stringy things on the wall and I didn't know if it was algae or my piece of my kid's black sock that he's been wearing in the pool and playing game with and I saw some questionable spots so I assumed it must be algae cuz when I've doubted spots before thinking it was just a dark pebble in the pebbletec it ended up being algae.

any thoughts on why I'm still getting the msg? could there be something else wrong or would 3400 salt make it blow so quickly? If so, would it make a new board blow right away, too? I'm still confused why mine would go so "fast." How long r these boards supposed to last in Phoenix?

thx!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
1630854755971.png
Check these numbers from the diagnostic screen.

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
James, thx. in meantime, what is it we r looking for? r u trying to help me save my board or get to the root of the cause? I'm starting to research other SWGs but I'm wondering if I should just call it a day and get a new hayward board. whatever I do I want to last cuz each x my SWG has a problem and I don't catch it in time I'm spending $100 in chlorine and stress with no swim time for kids anyway. at this point I'm leaning towards replacing board hoping I won't have a problem for a while and next problem assume it's the cell and get a different SWG. thx
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
just got back. I couldn't find anything similar to what u showed under diagnositc menu until I typed all of this so I figured I"d keep all the info. here r some of the readings:
instant salt- chlorinator off
flow switch flow
cell temps...
vsp speed/power/+ to view
main software revision 4.46
display software revision 3.12
vsp sofwared...
filter display software r3.10R
filter drive software r1.20
RF Base Software r3.00 ID:0609
-40.58V 10.08A (I think A-it's sunny right now and not easy to see)
86 degrees F 1800 PPYM

i took ppics. then i saw the same msg but 85 degrees and 1820 so maybe it was adjusting. i don't think that's when i pressed the +. from what i recall, when I pressed the + the first msg was:

instant chlor off.

filter Sp:1300RPM Pwr:169W...
+40.57V 10.08P (or A/8...?)
86 degrees/ 1800 PPM
Instant dsalt 1800 ppm
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
meaning, the guy may not have done a good solder? (not sure if u followed the whole thread that it was just resoldered). Is there a way we can tell by looking at it? I posted pics and the tip was not straight up but I have no understanding about how these things work so I don't know what to think. thx!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
The solder might be ok, but the board trace or the relay might be bad.

Or, maybe the solder failed again.

You would need a good repair technician to determine if it is worth fixing.

Can you show a new picture of the entire back of the board?

What is the actual salinity?
 

outdoorsgal

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2015
788
Phoenix, AZ
The solder might be ok, but the board trace or the relay might be bad.

Or, maybe the solder failed again.

You would need a good repair technician to determine if it is worth fixing.

Can you show a new picture of the entire back of the board?

What is the actual salinity?
I'm measuring salt at 3400 with Taylor kit. thx
 

Attachments

  • 20210902_173546.jpg
    20210902_173546.jpg
    375.8 KB · Views: 3
  • 20210902_173544.jpg
    20210902_173544.jpg
    366.5 KB · Views: 3
  • Screenshot_20210902-192629_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20210902-192629_Gallery.jpg
    215.8 KB · Views: 3

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
This part is dark, which might indicate that the trace has burned through or maybe the relay has failed.

1631047271910.png

You can replace the board or try to repair it if you want.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
The relay is the black square.

The relay has 6 solder points.

2 points are for the coil, which is what causes the relay to switch. (Blue dots).

3 points are for the power. (Red dots).

The power switch is a single pole, double throw switch.

1631082209513.png


1631082033336.png
1631082075208.png
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,839
The relay is on the opposite side of the board about where the black outline is.

I don't think that the relay was replaced.

1631082706755.png
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support