SW Open Raypak Heater

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evanwellens

evanwellens

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Jun 9, 2012
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Stony Point, NY
So I'm back to this problem , more and more frequently now. Cleaning baskets and filters always fixed the issue before , but now we just did the filters 2 weeks ago and the pressure is normal , flow appears normal, no bubbling . Heater wont start sw open. We also get hi limit fault as well , since we've gotten the heater. I know folks say it's a flow problem , but there is no bypass and this is a 2 hp pump, puts out a lot of water. I'm at a loss what to check next ? Any ideas , getting cool and need the heater to not be ou tof commision.

Thanks !!
 
evanwellens said:
So I'm back to this problem , more and more frequently now. Cleaning baskets and filters always fixed the issue before , but now we just did the filters 2 weeks ago and the pressure is normal , flow appears normal, no bubbling . Heater wont start sw open. We also get hi limit fault as well , since we've gotten the heater. I know folks say it's a flow problem , but there is no bypass and this is a 2 hp pump, puts out a lot of water. I'm at a loss what to check next ? Any ideas , getting cool and need the heater to not be ou tof commision.

Thanks !!
Click to expand...
Be sure there is no damage to the pressure switch or wiring, its located on the in/out manifold behind the top removable panel.
How old is the heater? Some had an issue with the High Limit 2 switch that some insulation could solve.
Could be the internal bypass or Uni-Therm regulator causing the hi-limit to trip as well.
 
ajw22 said:
Hi limit fault is a known problem. Some thermal insulation around the high limit sensors usually fixes it.

Read RayPak Heaters - Further Reading

What is your other problem?
Click to expand...
Yes the hi limit is a nuisance , but clears and resets. I do have it on my todo to find an insulation solution, just Leary that causes some damage if the temp is legit too high. SW Open is the other problem.
 
1poolman1 said:
Be sure there is no damage to the pressure switch or wiring, its located on the in/out manifold behind the top removable panel.
How old is the heater? Some had an issue with the High Limit 2 switch that some insulation could solve.
Could be the internal bypass or Uni-Therm regulator causing the hi-limit to trip as well.
Click to expand...
I guess I need to find a exploded diagram to determine the location.
 
The Hi Limit sensors still work as designed for protection with the external insulation on them.

The external insulation keeps other heat from causing them to trip prematurely.
 
Thank you all for reaching out so soon. Did clean the filters again and replace. It worked but they really weren't that dirty. These are 2023 filters, and the pressure was very low, which usually indicates not dirty ( over the 12 years I have had this pool. Heater is like 5 years old.
 

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evanwellens said:
Is there any chance adjusting the pressure switch a 1/4 turn might help ? Cleaning filters weekly is getting old quick
Click to expand...

Running your heater with inadequate pressure and flow can damage the heater and pipes.

Read Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading and check the Raypak Installation Manual on the pressure switch adjustment range or if you should replace it with a flow switch.
 
Is there any chance adjusting the pressure switch a 1/4 turn might help ? Cleaning filters weekly is getting old quikc
ajw22 said:
Running your heater with inadequate pressure and flow can damage the heater and pipes.

Read Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading and check the Raypak Installation Manual on the pressure switch adjustment range or if you should replace it with a flow switch.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply. So this heater has been running 5-6 years and this problem only came up recently, and frequently despite constant changing of filters ( actually came up once before and those filters needed to be changed and the pool filter pressure was high) . Also occurs when we turn our Polaris on. It's intermittent and seems to be at the edge of functionality , but becoming a real headache. I'd estimate the pool water level is 2-3 feet below the base of the heater, so it sees to fall within guidelines. So if a minor adjustment to the sensor is too risky , what do you think about just replacing it ?
 

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