Startup SWG chlorinator salt for new pool

[mguzzy]

No one likes the CYA test, so don't feel special. I like Marty's technique for doing the CYA test. Just fill to each line and glance. Don't try to "read between the lines". The dot is either there or its not. .. The longer you stare at it the more you get the optical delusion that creates the dot in the circle. And if you see the dot disappear and reappear on its own with out the test.. then the 60's treated you better than most.

 

[Dirk]

^^^^^ what mguzzy said. Don't mess with the drops, just fill to each line and glance at it. The first time you can't easily spot the dot, the number on that line is your CYA. Ooh, "spot the dot." Me likey.

 

[mgtfp]

I'm pretty sure all SWG's reduce FC output in cold water, whether they tell you that or not. Its a function of the electrolysis reaction and it helps protect the cell I remember reading somewhere. (Out of curiosity I pulled up the Watermaid SWG manual, and your right there is no mention of a cold water shut off as in other brands). Anyway, just like others have said, I would keep your target from the FC/CYA Levels as your minimum, that way if something happens you have a buffer. Remember it won't hurt it to have more as long as you are below SLAM levels. And in the winter it will take less liquid chlorine to maintain your target FC, whatever it is, than in the summer with higher temps, greater bather load and more direct sun. During my winter months when the SWG was off, I only used 3 gallons.

I certainly always see gas being created in the cell, and it doesn't look much less turbulent in the cell in winter compared to summer. I never needed to add liquid chlorine in winter so far. But my Hurlcon is ancient (2005, cell from 2007), newer models might have that feature by now. But I certainly don't miss that feature, very easy going system. And not shutting off in winter (which is actually not really winter, probably more autumn-like) certainly hasn't affected the system's lifetime.

 

[markayash]

Is it counter productive to run my heater so my cell will start working I hate buying jug of chlorine now, ready for warm water so I can get the cell back up and working

 

[mguzzy]

Is it counter productive to run my heater so my cell will start working I hate buying jug of chlorine now, ready for warm water so I can get the cell back up and working

NO! Don't do that. unless you plan on heating your pool up to over 68F. Otherwise the condensation in the heater will damage it. I posed that question back a few years and was told the same thing by the local gurus

 

[mguzzy]

And not shutting off in winter (which is actually not really winter, probably more autumn-like) certainly hasn't affected the system's lifetime.

One man's winter is another man's summer..and I'm not talking about the reverse seasons between us. How cold does the pool water get in your "winter"? In my "winter" it drops to 48 deg F (9C), For some, like the fine gents in the Southwest 65 deg F (18C) water temp is "Winter" and that is too cold swim to swim for them. In my Winter the SWG would turn off from hypothermia, for the Southwest gents, the SWG its happy as a clam.

 

[markayash]

NO! Don't do that. unless you plan on heating your pool up to over 68F. Otherwise the condensation in the heater will damage it. I posed that question back a few years and was told the same thing by the local gurus

I was kidding but I am reedy to get it up and working. Last year I walked the fence on salt levels around 2800 and had it stop a few times until I added a bag. This year I added 10 bags and got it up to around 3800 so curious if it works better. Somebody said Circupool told them their systems like levels around 4000

 

[Dirk]

I just turned on my SWG today. If it's still too cold where you are, it won't be for much longer...

Scheduling your SWG run late in the day can get you started a bit earlier in the season, since your pool should be a few degrees warmer after the sun warms it up each day.

 

[wireform]

I was kidding but I am reedy to get it up and working. Last year I walked the fence on salt levels around 2800 and had it stop a few times until I added a bag. This year I added 10 bags and got it up to around 3800 so curious if it works better. Somebody said Circupool told them their systems like levels around 4000

Yes , circupool said to me last year they like 4000ppm. I had a few systems running 3800-4000 without problems.

 

[mgtfp]

One man's winter is another man's summer..and I'm not talking about the reverse seasons between us. How cold does the pool water get in your "winter"? In my "winter" it drops to 48 deg F (9C), For some, like the fine gents in the Southwest 65 deg F (18C) water temp is "Winter" and that is too cold swim to swim for them. In my Winter the SWG would turn off from hypothermia, for the Southwest gents, the SWG its happy as a clam.

Water does get down to about 8°C (46°F). Melbourne doesn't get a real winter with pretty snow, more this perpetual cold November rain feeling. There are anecdotal reports from residents in the high rises in the CBD about spotting single snow flakes. Real snow only to be found in the mountains, which is why they are called "Snowy Mountains" - the early settlers where really creative with their naming, "Boggy Creek", "Dry Creek", etc.

Still cold enough though for a winter shut off (or at least turn down) feature to kick in, if present. Over this summer I developed a much better understanding of how much chlorine my SWG is actually producing (before that, I was running my SWG more on a trial and error basis). Will run some tests in winter to work out if the production levels are different from summer levels.