Aug 31, 2016
24
Whitehouse TX
Last year I started getting small circular stains on the bottom of our pool. The stains have increased in number over the year but all chemicals are in check and my water is always crystal clear. I’m starting to think these are coming from our yard man getting granules of fertilizer and weed treatments in the pool. I’ve read online that fertilizer will bring up the phosphate level and mine is 4800 ppb.
 

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Fertilizers can impact water chemistry and cause some staining. Have you tried any stain ID methods yet (i.e. Vitamin C tablets, dry acid, chlroine tab) by rubbing ont the effected area for a short time? Also, care to share a set of your latest test results? Might help us put everything together.
 
I’ve tried a chlorine puck with no luck but there are so many stains I feel overwhelmed. I will have to try the vitamin c tabs. My ph is 7.8 hardness 215, alkalinity 98, cyanuric acid 72, copper 0.2, iron 0.1, phosphate 4800, I have no chlorine even though I put in 2 bags of shock last night and have the chlorinator wide open. I’ve been fighting no chlorine for weeks.
 
If the staining didn't change with a chlorine tablet, then I suspect they are either iron or copper since you show some levels of both in your last post. For localized treatments, the Vitamin C tabs will remove iron. Use Dry acid if it's copper. If the staining is so bad that you can't get it in small treatments, then a drain and acid wash may be in order.

In the meantime, you'll want to do the following:
1 - Make sure you are testing your water with a TF-100 test kit. A Taylor K-2006C is an alternative, but the TF-100 is a great value. You really need that accuracy.
2 - Chlorinate with liquid chlorine (aka regular bleach) only for now. You didn't post your CYA level, but tabs increase CYA with each puck. Before you know it, the CYA is so high the chlorine level (FC) can't keep up. See FC/CYA Levels.
3 - Keep your pH managed well. Staining often increases when pH begins to get too high. The mid-7s may help.
4 - If you can't drain and do the acid wash, consider the use of a good sequestrant to help prevent future staining. Check the Magic Jack's line of products.
5 - Do not add any unique pool store products like algacides. Many have copper which may be why you have copper in the water now.

But we've seen here at TFP many, many times that flawed testing only made things worse. This is why we emphasie the TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit.
 
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If the staining didn't change with a chlorine tablet, then I suspect they are either iron or copper since you show some levels of both in your last post. For localized treatments, the Vitamin C tabs will remove iron. Use Dry acid if it's copper. If the staining is so bad that you can't get it in small treatments, then a drain and acid wash may be in order.

In the meantime, you'll want to do the following:
1 - Make sure you are testing your water with a TF-100 test kit. A Taylor K-2006C is an alternative, but the TF-100 is a great value. You really need that accuracy.
2 - Chlorinate with liquid chlorine (aka regular bleach) only for now. You didn't post your CYA level, but tabs increase CYA with each puck. Before you know it, the CYA is so high the chlorine level (FC) can't keep up. See FC/CYA Levels.
3 - Keep your pH managed well. Staining often increases when pH begins to get too high. The mid-7s may help.
4 - If you can't drain and do the acid wash, consider the use of a good sequestrant to help prevent future staining. Check the Magic Jack's line of products.
5 - Do not add any unique pool store products like algacides. Many have copper which may be why you have copper in the water now.

But we've seen here at TFP many, many times that flawed testing only made things worse. This is why we emphasie the TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit.
 
I have the TF-100 test kit. I put that my CYA is 72.
Gotcha. :goodjob: We normally round up/down, so your 72 threw me off. Just call it 70. If it was halfway or higher, I'd round-up to 80. Later add the TF-100 to your signature please.

Out of curiosity, have you done an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test recently? Just to see if you are experiencing any unusual FC loss each day?
 

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ph is 7.8 hardness 215, alkalinity 98, cyanuric acid 72, copper 0.2, iron 0.1, phosphate 4800
Pat mentioned the test kit because you cannot measure a TA of 98, a CYA of 72, a CH of 215, and neither copper or iron with a TF100.

Those look like pool store tests.
 
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Ok - can you post your own test results? We don’t usually trust pool store tests. Who knows what methods they’re using to get their numbers....
 
My 72 came from my pool store when I went in to buy acid yesterday but I test myself at home from the TF-100 Kit.
As you can see, we tend to "sniff out" those pool store tests. :) Always best to use and rely on your own TF-100 tests. The CYA in particular is one the store does incorrectly.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.
 

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