Stabilizer

[MCF50]

I have my salt, chlorine and PH set...ready to add stabilizer today. Is there a test I should do before adding (none has been added to date as this is a new star up)? Or do I add per recommeded dosage on the bag? Thanks!!

 

[JJ_Tex]

Do you have a recommended test kit that will test of CYA? See the link in my signature to the TF-100 if needed.

In theory you should not have any if you have been using liquid chlorine since you filled. How have you been chlorinating?
Regardless, I would still test before you add CYA since if you over shoot your target you will have to drain and refill.

 

[Jimrahbe]

50,

If this is a brand new pool, I would add about 75% of what you want the final number to be.. Wait a few days and then test again. Then based on your test results, add the amount needed to get to your correct CYA level..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Richard320]

Tap water will have no CYA, so you don't need to test beforehand. To expand on Jim R's answer, we've discovered that inground pools are seldom the volume they claim to be. So work up to the CYA level, because trying to lower it if you overshot involves replacing some of your just-balanced water.

 

[MCF50]

Thanks!!

 

[MCF50]

Starting up pool....has SWCG ~13500 gallons. Salt level 3400ppm per test kit recommended on site. Total Alkalinity only 30ppm (low) / PH 8.4 (high). Chlorine level looks good. Have not yet added stabilizer. Suggestions? Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

Recommended Levels

As it is winter, your CYA can be raised to 40 ppm and wait until spring to bring to 70 ppm. With winter rains you may get overflow and dilution so no need to raise those items. Same with salt level.

 

[MCF50]

Thanks!!! A friend of mine just told me to drop the PH by adding a quart of muriatic acid. From what I have read, this seem the right thing to do...correct?

 

[mknauss]

Use PoolMath. You do not just dump in a volume of chemical without testing and using Poolmath to determine how much chemical you need to reach the chemistry level you need.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Total Alkalinity only 30ppm (low) / PH 8.4 (high).

Is adding MA now a good idea with a TA of only 30? I've never had to deal with low TA.

Did you use a 25 ml sample for the TA test?

 

[MCF50]

Is adding MA now a good idea with a TA of only 30? I've never had to deal with low TA.

Did you use a 25 ml sample for the TA test?

Yes...I used the 25ml sample for the TA test.

 

[MCF50]

Use PoolMath. You do not just dump in a volume of chemical without testing and using Poolmath to determine how much chemical you need to reach the chemistry level you need.

Trial and error...that's how engineers do it!

 

[mknauss]

I am an Engineer and I do not do my pool chemistry that way!!

It is very difficult to have a pH of 8.4 and a TA of 30. How did you test the pH? At what FC was that tested at?

 

[MCF50]

I tested using the kit provided with my pool. Just checked it again after adding a little less than a quart of muratic acid. Ph is 7.8 and Chlorine is 70. Need to re-check TA.

 

[mknauss]

What kit is that? You need a proper test kit. TF100 or Taylor K2006C,

 

[proavia]

What is the test kit that was provided with your pool?
What exact tests does the kit provide?

Are you using PoolMath ?

Post a full current set of test results

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
Water Temp

 

[MCF50]

Ok..test kit is the Poolstyle Deluxe 5 way swimming pool Test Kit.
Checked salt with Taylor Kit - 3200
PH - 7.2
CL / BR - 2 / 4
TA = 30 (not sure why this is low but checked it 3 times)

 

[MCF50]

What kit is that? You need a proper test kit. TF100 or Taylor K2006C,

What is the difference between the 2?

 

[MCF50]

What is the difference between the 2?

Disregard...ordered K-2006C

 

[mknauss]

I suggest you stop making any adjustments based on your 5 way kit but to keep enough chlorine in the pool for the yellow tinge to be in the OTO test. The pH may be able to be believed if the TC you are reading with the OTO is low enough.