Small Pool Build - Brisbane, Australia [emoji1037]

PoolMath, either here on the website or in the app needs to know your current TA in order to do a pH adjustment calculation. TA will be moving up because of the plaster and because of any topping up. You'll get a feel for it pretty fast. If you want to save acid and your plaster, you can run at a bit higher pH, e.g. 7.7/7.8

How's your calcium hardness. That's also important for new plaster. It would be great to see a full set of test numbers :). All the concentrations need to work together.
 
PoolMath, either here on the website or in the app needs to know your current TA in order to do a pH adjustment calculation. TA will be moving up because of the plaster and because of any topping up. You'll get a feel for it pretty fast. If you want to save acid and your plaster, you can run at a bit higher pH, e.g. 7.7/7.8

How's your calcium hardness. That's also important for new plaster. It would be great to see a full set of test numbers :). All the concentrations need to work together.

Thank you. That makes sense. I have just done my first full set of testing with my ccl kit. Will post below.
 
First set of test results. I can’t remember the order I should write them so will list them in the order I did them.

Cya - 70 (maybe 80 - tricky test)
FC - 0 ([emoji31] yes on to that now)
CC - 1 (eek)
Ph - 7.8
TA - 150 (eek again -will drop ph and aerate)
CH - 225
Salt - unable to get a reading. Added 50 drops with no change.

Immediate plan is to crank the swg. Dose acid to drop ph to 7.2 and aerate with hose as need to add a bit of water anyway. Will pick up some chlorine and if the swg isn’t doing its thing shortly will dump 2 litres as per pool math. Maybe I should do that anyway? The swg seems to be overly efficient though.

Not sure what happened with the salt test. Also before I go ahead, with the TA test it kept flashing go red before it actually turned red. I want the turned red and stayed red number correct?

Hoping I get more efficient at this. Took me about an hour!
 
Yeh no worries... you'll get very quick at it :)

A couple of warnings - the DPD powder can stain stuff, worst I saw was a linoleum floor ruined. Second the the silver nitrate used for the salt test. That will leave black marks. But at the beginning, it's great that you're taking your time and getting to know how the tests works.

Yes on TA. It should stay on full barbie pink. The early flashes are just as the sample is mixing.

The salt test is a 10 ml test, so just double-checking that. It usually goes creamy yellow on the first or second drop (to be ignored) and then should turn brown somewhere around 15-25 drops, with each drop = 200 ppm salt. If that's all correct, then I'd contact CCL and see what they say. Do you know if they put in around 5 bags of salt?

Whenever you see zero FC, use liquid to bring it to target, then let the SWC take over to maintain it.

Don't be alarmed by the TA. You're still in a good place and the acid dosing will gradually bring it down. pH at 7.8 is in range. When it goes above 7.8 is the time to take action.
 
Yeh no worries... you'll get very quick at it :)

A couple of warnings - the DPD powder can stain stuff, worst I saw was a linoleum floor ruined. Second the the silver nitrate used for the salt test. That will leave black marks. But at the beginning, it's great that you're taking your time and getting to know how the tests works.

Yes on TA. It should stay on full barbie pink. The early flashes are just as the sample is mixing.

The salt test is a 10 ml test, so just double-checking that. It usually goes creamy yellow on the first or second drop (to be ignored) and then should turn brown somewhere around 15-25 drops, with each drop = 200 ppm salt. If that's all correct, then I'd contact CCL and see what they say. Do you know if they put in around 5 bags of salt?

Whenever you see zero FC, use liquid to bring it to target, then let the SWC take over to maintain it.

Don't be alarmed by the TA. You're still in a good place and the acid dosing will gradually bring it down. pH at 7.8 is in range. When it goes above 7.8 is the time to take action.

Thanks so much Jett.

I went back to a photo I had taken of our chemical delivery. There was 10 bags of salt in the photo and there is one left over so I’m guessing they put in 9 [emoji15] The test just went thicker and milkier white. No colour change at all.

About to do a Bunnings trip, though also need to also go to coles since I can’t feed the kids chlorine. Will pick up some chlorine and dump when I get home and anything else I think I need.

Thought I’d top up the pool since it had dropped a bit. Used our new tap we had installed for the pool for the first time. Luckily I went out to fiddle with the chlorinator after about an hour as there is obviously a massive leak. Water everywhere. My first thought was pool plumbing but I doubt it as I’ve had no problems so far. The tap piping runs in the same trench as the pool plumbing. They are coming out today to fix it. Glad it’s them digging it all up! It seems never ending right now but at least feel I’ve made a start on the chemistry by testing. Tomorrow it will be officially mine after handover. Kids are hanging out for a swim but I can’t let them with these levels.
 
That's very helpful and sounds like too much salt, which might explain why you're not reaching the test end-point.

I've bought salt in both 20 and 25 kg bags, so if you can read the weight of bag in the photo, that would be helpful.

If it's 20 kg bags, you have 6700 ppm salt. (33-34 drops)
If it's 25 kg bags, you have 8300 ppm salt. (41-42 drops)

So based on that, you would have reached the endpoint within 50 drops. One trick with the reagents is to hold the bottle vertical (upside down of course) and squeeze gently, so each drop fully forms and then falls away from the bottle. Around one drop per second, squeezing gently, is about right for most people. If you go too quick, the drops will be smaller and have less than the intended effect, and therefore require more drops to reach the endpoint. It doesn't make much difference when doing 10 drops, but on 40/50 drops, it could be noticeable.

I can't find a maximum salt level for your chlorinator. They always provide a minimum for SWCs, but some have electronics that can handle very high salt levels. One brand here can be used in an ocean water pool (35,000 ppm salt) while others have a maximum around 6,000 ppm salt. I found one comment on the Astral website suggesting 6,000 for winter (15 degree water). So I sent them an inquiry and I'll let you know if I hear back.

- - - Updated - - -

The SWC will have electronics to protect itself, so don't worry about the high salt until we know more. We certainly know you have enough :)
 
That's very helpful and sounds like too much salt, which might explain why you're not reaching the test end-point.

I've bought salt in both 20 and 25 kg bags, so if you can read the weight of bag in the photo, that would be helpful.

If it's 20 kg bags, you have 6700 ppm salt. (33-34 drops)
If it's 25 kg bags, you have 8300 ppm salt. (41-42 drops)

So based on that, you would have reached the endpoint within 50 drops. One trick with the reagents is to hold the bottle vertical (upside down of course) and squeeze gently, so each drop fully forms and then falls away from the bottle. Around one drop per second, squeezing gently, is about right for most people. If you go too quick, the drops will be smaller and have less than the intended effect, and therefore require more drops to reach the endpoint. It doesn't make much difference when doing 10 drops, but on 40/50 drops, it could be noticeable.

I can't find a maximum salt level for your chlorinator. They always provide a minimum for SWCs, but some have electronics that can handle very high salt levels. One brand here can be used in an ocean water pool (35,000 ppm salt) while others have a maximum around 6,000 ppm salt. I found one comment on the Astral website suggesting 6,000 for winter (15 degree water). So I sent them an inquiry and I'll let you know if I hear back.

- - - Updated - - -

The SWC will have electronics to protect itself, so don't worry about the high salt until we know more. We certainly know you have enough :)

They are 20kg bags. Will repeat the test again later after I’ve dumped the chlorine. The reading could well be off as I found the test didn’t want to spin on the speed stir like the others. Was planning on getting the starting level in the ccl bike then transferring to the speed stir vile to add the detection drops.

I did see the recommended salt level for the swg a while ago. Will try and find it again.

Going to take a sample to Bunnings diy machine for a laugh while I’m there.
 
Small Pool Build - Brisbane, Australia ??

Just reran a couple of tests before adding chlorine.

Ph - 7.4
FC - 4
Salt - 6,400 (32 drops)

So my swg in full pelt for about 8 hours has generated 4ppm. Will turn it down a touch now and let it creep up a little slower. Won’t add any of the liquid chlorine yet that I raced out to buy.

As for my flooding issue. It was hubby’ overflow connection [emoji35] Plumber is coming back to do the job properly either tomorrow or early next week. Fortunately there is no rain predicted. Glad I found out this way while topping up pool. Hopefully they have correctly identified the problem. The fix is only about 2.5m of pipe and a bit of stuffing around. They did say the rest of his work looks good thank goodness so no need to dig up the concrete he put plumbing under. Glad I had photos of everything. Plumber found it so helpful.

Could high salt levels be aggressive to the skin? I have a rash on on my arm from where I just took the water sample elbow deep.
 
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Looked up my chlorinator and it recommends 4,000ppm of salt with no less than 3,000ppm. Only reference to high levels are to have your chlorinator checked if it’s reading high. It says about 100kg of salt should have been added for a pool my size. My estimate was that 180kg of salt was added.
 
Re: Small Pool Build - Brisbane, Australia ??

Pretty crazy how the goofed up on the salt qty - You would think they would know roughly how much to add without requiring any calculations. Were they asleep on that day?

Could high salt levels be aggressive to the skin? I have a rash on on my arm from where I just took the water sample elbow deep.

Very much doubt that 6400ppm worth of salt would cause any problem considering sea water is up around 35,000ppm.
 
What a roller coaster ride for you! Salt problems, flooding, racing out to buy chlorine, finding out it was "HIS" work :roll:, on and on........at least it is all fixable.

Not sure about the rash but wonder if that is it. Will have to do some poking around to see what I can find.

Kim:kim:
 
Re: Small Pool Build - Brisbane, Australia ??

Pretty crazy how the goofed up on the salt qty - You would think they would know roughly how much to add without requiring any calculations. Were they asleep on that day?



Very much doubt that 6400ppm worth of salt would cause any problem considering sea water is up around 35,000ppm.

Yeah I’m not happy. Was happy enough with our build until start up. Nothing has been kept in check since. I’ve been left to feel like I’m fumbling since I have yet to do handover. Tomorrow can’t come quick enough. Going to try and figure out how to find the setting in the chlorinator that tells me the pool volume that’s been entered. Will be interesting to see what they they entered. I won’t change it until tomorrow so handover bloke can see it. My initial estimate from an online calculator was around 27,000 but that didn’t exclude the bench and I think was before we added .2 in width. I don’t have exact water metre reading but give or take half an hour or which put my at 25,211. Today I did the online pentair calculator and used it to calculate pool volume then used it again to work out volume of the bench then deducted that from the initial volume and came to 25,560. I think this is probably the most accurate measurement. If the data that was entered into my chlorinator is thousands off I will be even more upset than I am already. I have zero pool background and can figure out a rough volume. Wasn’t hard to read the manual as to how much salt should go in.

Hopefully the salt doesn’t cause any issues. There is no warning in the instruction manual. It’s just annoying as gradually adding would have meant this didn’t happen. Same goes for the cya. Really didn’t want it quite as high as 70-80 to start with but now I have no choice. The two levels that are not correctable they stuff up.
 
What a roller coaster ride for you! Salt problems, flooding, racing out to buy chlorine, finding out it was "HIS" work :roll:, on and on........at least it is all fixable.

Not sure about the rash but wonder if that is it. Will have to do some poking around to see what I can find.

Kim:kim:

Today has been quite a saga. Too many days like this lately. Don’t know whether to laugh or cry. At least the overflow will be properly sorted before any heavy rain. That would have been a real drama.

I had a quick google re the rash and all I could find was rash from high chlorine but tested the sample at 4ppm. Not like I can run it any lower due to the cya. It actually needs to be higher. I’m wondering if it is because I took it from near a return and the swg was cranked. The water does not feel nice overall though. Feels very hard. I think when I get the fc/cya relationship settled it will feel better. Ready for today to be over but have all my jobs to do they I didn’t get done earlier.
 
Well it will be interesting for you tomorrow when they pop around to perform the handover.

It will be interesting to see in what detail they cover off the handover in.

Hopefully you will learn something in their handover and not learn they they don't know much themselves....!

It’s actually a pool store doing the handover. I wasn’t sure this was a good thing at first but now happy about it. They were the ones to help me on Saturday figure out my ph drama and seem really helpful. Don’t worry I won’t be signing any care contracts with them!
 

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