Pool was finished in May. I’ve noticed the diamond brite finish feels kind of slippery. 100% sure it’s not algae. Is this part of the curing process? Still seeing plaster dust and the color has slowly been darkening.
I know it’s not. I’m diligent about them chemistry - check the chlorine and pH daily. My water is crystal clear. My pump has been at the same running pressure for weeks. And I’ve passed overnight chlorine tests twice now."Slippery" is almost always algae. I can think of nothing else. Why do you think it's not?
That wouldn’t cause it. It’s wont hurt you either. I use it in winter when I close to assist with stain and scale during the winter months closed. Does it help I fell it does cause even after my first winter closing I had zero scale and my ph was completely out of control when I opened. And past 2 winters I don’t to use it and same good results so I feel u are safe there.I know it’s not. I’m diligent about them chemistry - check the chlorine and pH daily. My water is crystal clear. My pump has been at the same running pressure for weeks. And I’ve passed overnight chlorine tests twice now.
My pool builder had me add a product called Beautec after a month. Do you think that could do it?
It’s not like a slimy slippery. I liken it to a wet porcelain tile.That wouldn’t cause it. It’s wont hurt you either. I use it in winter when I close to assist with stain and scale during the winter months closed. Does it help I fell it does cause even after my first winter closing I had zero scale and my ph was completely out of control when I opened. And past 2 winters I don’t to use it and same good results so I feel u are safe there.
Is the whole surface slick or just areas?
And when u do ur overnight test it is dark out for night and in the morning? No uv light?
With CYA 60ppm your daily FC target should be 7-9ppm. Your poolmath logs show it has been running 4-5ppm for FC. The FC should never drop below 5ppm. You are on the edge of an algae bloom. I recommend you perform the SLAM Process. Once the slam is completed keep the FC at 9ppm until you are able to start the SWG.
My recommendations are made based on the data you reported and the data in your poolmath logs. If you did slam your pool you did not enter the test results in your poolmath app. You did not say the plaster has felt this way since day one in any prior post in this thread, implying this is a new development. If you have issues with the quality of the plaster finish of your pool then you should take it up with your builder. As for having passed the OCLT and water clarity, yes you can be on the edge of an algae bloom and have those results. One of the first signs of algae is a slick feel on pool surfaces. You have been giving your pool just enough chlorine to hold an incipient algae bloom at bay. If you were to allow the FC to drop below minimum for a couple of days you would see more definitive signs, such as dulling of the water and an increase in chlorine consumption.Never mind I’ll ask the pool builder. I doubt that I’m on the edge of an algal bloom. It’s been this way since day one.
If I was on the edge of an algal bloom wouldn’t I have overnight chlorine loss???
What parameters would you like me to use to perform said SLAM? SLAM til my pool is clear? It is. SLAM until my CC is 0.5 it is 0. SLAM until I pass an overnight chlorine loss test? I did twice now.
I’m sorry but you don’t read the posts.My recommendations are made based on the data you reported and the data in your poolmath logs. If you did slam your pool you did not enter the test results in your poolmath app. You did not say the plaster has felt this way since day one in any prior post in this thread, implying this is a new development. If you have issues with the quality of the plaster finish of your pool then you should take it up with your builder. As for having passed the OCLT and water clarity, yes you can be on the edge of an algae bloom and have those results. One of the first signs of algae is a slick feel on pool surfaces. You have been giving your pool just enough chlorine to hold an incipient algae bloom at bay. If you were to allow the FC to drop below minimum for a couple of days you would see more definitive signs, such as dulling of the water and an increase in chlorine consumption.
CALCIUM SILICATE HYDRATION:
Is caused by the free lime (calcium hydroxide), which come to the surface on a new finish.
If not removed by normal brushing & water balancing (included on page 8), this process continues for the first 90 days. All the while the (CALCIUM HYDROXIDE) is converting to CALCIUM SILICATE (the same thing glass is made from) which looks like a thin glaze over the dark areas of the pool.
In essence growing a glass – like calcium glaze over parts of the pool, darkening those areas. This calcium glaze is very hard and can only be removed with a low alkalinity treatment.