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Mdragger88 said:
Yes- You would follow the saltwater generator portion of the FC/CYA Levels
The chances for algae are the same.
if you go near/ below minimum fc for your cya things will grow 🦠
The swg just takes care of the daily chlorine dosing for you vs you manually adding liquid chlorine.
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Ok Thanks but assume that an SWG has a flow rate or the like to SLAM etc or does that require manually adding chlorine? Also looking at cost factors of bleach vs salt pellets, I assume salt is way cheaper and given the constant application of Cl- a whole lot easier
 
Bob, not sure if I'm following your question above .... were you questioning the difference between a SLAM on a salt versus a non-salt pool? If so, the amount of chlorine required varies. Most salt pools have a CYA of 70-80, so the FC SLAM level is around 28-31. But in the summer, many non-salt pools in hot climates also have a high CYA, so their FC SLAM level will be about the same. Just depends. Also the degree of algae dictates how much chlorine is required on a pool.

We recommend leaving the SWG off during a SLAM simply because SWGs are not designed to product that much FC. The liquid chlorine does the job just fine. Hope that helps,.
 
Texas Splash said:
Bob, not sure if I'm following your question above .... were you questioning the difference between a SLAM on a salt versus a non-salt pool? If so, the amount of chlorine required varies. Most salt pools have a CYA of 70-80, so the FC SLAM level is around 28-31. But in the summer, many non-salt pools in hot climates also have a high CYA, so their FC SLAM level will be about the same. Just depends. Also the degree of algae dictates how much chlorine is required on a pool.

We recommend leaving the SWG off during a SLAM simply because SWGs are not designed to product that much FC. The liquid chlorine does the job just fine. Hope that helps,.
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Thanks - I am trying to get out of the business of buying/adding alot of bleach every day. so was wondering about the SWG route. each has it's own evils. I have done about all I can to remove any type of algae and took the pool to 19ppm FC for the OCLT so that at least in AM I will be above SLAM level. I go out of town again Wed-Thursday so have to rely on girlfriend to add while I am out. I do not see the benefit of raising CYA until I pass the OCLT.

Also on the light replacement. Someone should post for those with screws all around instead of a clamp. The trick was to get a 3/4" 10x24 screw to start the clamp down process and then switch to the provided 1/2" 10x24 threaded screws. There was no way to get it started without doing that on my model of light. Also swapped all the screws for phillips heads vs the slotted type
 
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delaneybob said:
Thanks - I am trying to get out of the business of buying/adding alot of bleach every day. so was wondering about the SWG route. each has it's own evils. I have done about all I can to remove any type of algae and took the pool to 19ppm FC for the OCLT so that at least in AM I will be above SLAM level. I go out of town again Wed-Thursday so have to rely on girlfriend to add while I am out. I do not see the benefit of raising CYA until I pass the OCLT.

Also on the light replacement. Someone should post for those with screws all around instead of a clamp. The trick was to get a 3/4" 10x24 screw to start the clamp down process and then switch to the provided 1/2" 10x24 threaded screws. There was no way to get it started without doing that on my model of light. Also swapped all the screws for phillips heads vs the slotted type
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there are no evils to a SWG... it makes life easy
 
Hi- any sense on estimated cost to convert? would do it toward the winter. meanwhile once I pass oCLT I am trying to figure out what I can expect on bleach adds on ongoing basis- anyone have an opinion based on my profile? CYA=40
 
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delaneybob said:
Hi- any sense on estimated cost to convert? would do it toward the winter. meanwhile once I pass oCLT I am trying to figure out what I can expect on bleach adds on ongoing basis- anyone have an opinion based on my profile? CYA=40
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The average pool uses 2-4 ppm/day of fc
 
I replaced my unit after i bought my house for around $750 - that was a few years ago though. Same unit now is $1500 on Amazon. And, I didn't have to hire an electrician since I was basically swapping out an old circu pool unit for a hayward. But just just an FYI, I had one on a mini pool prior to this one and it's all I'll ever have. To each there own though, but it sure does keep life simple...
Amazon.com : Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Salt Chlorination System for In-Ground Pools up to 40, 000 Gallons : Garden & Outdoor
 

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I passed OCLT
7/29 8:30pm-18ppm FC
7/30 6:30am- 18ppm FC

I plan to keep it there 1 more day. I am keeping the FC a little high due to another question I had as I woke up- For the CYA test I do it till the black dot completely disappears, not starts to disappear. I am petty sure that is correct but can someone verify? Taylor says completely disappears which is what I have been doing

reason for the ask is if it's not completely disappear, then my CYA is higher than 40
 
Texas Splash said:
Congrats on the OCLT! :goodjob: Yes, you add fluid until the dot disappears. You can pour it back in the bottle and go back & forth a few times to get a good average if you like.
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Thanks I also plan to swap the cartridge filter, monitor FC closely to see the drop due to UV and then consider a SWG based on bleach $$$
 
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200.gif
 
Still passing OCLT. No loss at all.

I raised CYA to 50 to combat the Florida sun and my FC drop is ~0.5ppm/hr during a hot sunny day. (last week) I added the pucks back in will monitor the CYA and see if the FC loss is tangibly lowered. If not, will toss the pucks and looks like I need 80-100oz 7.5% bleach /day to maintain FC during the summer. That's ~$25/week in bleach unless folks have a place were they sell drums/refill and you can tap it. I don't want to go to local pool store for bleach although they are 320oz of 10.5% for $17 (I can get that same dynamic at 7.5% and avoid the drive)
 
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Here are the puck/no puck results

8/1- no pucks
6:30am 10ppm FC
5:30pm- 6.5 ppm FC
4.5ppm/11hours=0.4ppm/hr

Added 80 oz bleach and was 11ppm when I went to bed

8/2-
6:30am 11ppm FC- added 3 pucks
5:30pm- 7 ppm FC

0.5ppm/11hours= 0.45 ppm/hr

So within the margin of error with sunshine/rain variable it appears. what the puck? :)
 
Pucks are ok as a temporary measure but definitely watch the cya for rise as well as ph & alk- they can tank those if you’re not careful.
 
delaneybob said:
Here are the puck/no puck results

8/1- no pucks
6:30am 10ppm FC
5:30pm- 6.5 ppm FC
4.5ppm/11hours=0.4ppm/hr

Added 80 oz bleach and was 11ppm when I went to bed

8/2-
6:30am 11ppm FC- added 3 pucks
5:30pm- 7 ppm FC

0.5ppm/11hours= 0.45 ppm/hr

So within the margin of error with sunshine/rain variable it appears. what the puck? :)
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I know it’s 2:30 am here and I’m a little foggy but Is that math right?
Didn’t you lose 3.5ppm on 8/1 and 4ppm on 8/2?
 
revitup said:
I know it’s 2:30 am here and I’m a little foggy but Is that math right?
Didn’t you lose 3.5ppm on 8/1 and 4ppm on 8/2?
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yes- not sure of the 0.5 in the other direction with the pucks but essentially made no difference. I will try another test maybe over weekend
 
What are your guys thoughts on this? $475 for 7.5% equivalent getting bleach from grocery store so 35% savings but how to access/maintain :-(

I am rapidly coming to the conclusion (at least in the summer)- I need 1 120oz jug of 7.5% bleach to maintain FC- that bumps it up 5-5.5FC per add
 

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