SLAM timeline

[delaneybob]

I decided to let FC come down give my scheudle- see other post.

yes I have a gasket- I looked up Inyo pools and there is a replacement but I I can push the assembly flat- but it pops out again. I think the lens gasket is to protect the bulb- not to seal around the pool per se- agree? I have been told not touch the light by the previous owner and pool guy who verified that the bottom drain was epoxied shut a year ago.

I have a house party the 24th and all for trying to impress with an LED but at my age- wisdom says quit while you are ahead- take a breather - do it after the party

I went and got a shorter stainless steel screw and now it's flush. I queried Inyo on LED replacements but that will be after house party

 

[delaneybob]

6pm 7/11/201
FC=7ppm
CC<0.5ppm
PH 7.2
CYA 30

I will retest in AM

Thanks all!

 

[IceShadow]

It’s typical for those lights to allow water behind them, so a gap between the assembly and the housing doesn’t matter.

 

[Texas Splash]

That a typical FC drop coming off SLAM (~1ppm/hr)?

The FC will fall a bit more rapidly coming off of a SLAM. Once it gets down to around 5-7 that will be teh time to really watch drops.

Let's tag @jimmythegreek about your light though.

 

[delaneybob]

The FC will fall a bit more rapidly coming off of a SLAM. Once it gets down to around 5-7 that will be teh time to really watch drops.

Let's tag @jimmythegreek about your light though.

Ok great- should I start another thread then ( I assume you tagged him already?)

 

[Texas Splash]

Let's keep everything here and let Jimmy take a look at your light once he returns.

 

[delaneybob]

Let's keep everything here and let Jimmy take a look at your light once he returns.

Ok here is a picture of the label that floated off when I took it out for his reference.

TC test shows overall Chlorine is still 5-7- saving my FAS test for the AM till I get more reagent tomorrow PM

 

[delaneybob]

7/12/2021 6am
FC=6ppm (1 ppm drop)
CC<0.5ppm
PH 7.2

 

[Texas Splash]

Good numbers. Now you should be able to just add x-amount of chlorine per day and stay in that 4-6 range. While the FC/CYA Levels says no lower than 2 for your CYA of 30, I wouldn't go any lower than 3 at any time. Speaking of CYA, that seems a bit low for a FL summer. So if you get a lot of strong sun on the water each day, you might take the CYA to at least 40 and bring your FC to the 5-7 range. @jimmythegreek will pop-in when he gets time between his industry jobs.

 

[delaneybob]

Ok thanks- I do not have stabilizer but thinking maybe using the pucks for a bit in a floater for CYA + some FC for 1 week and monitoring= thoughts?

 

[Texas Splash]

maybe using the pucks for a bit in a floater for CYA + some FC for 1 week and monitoring= thoughts?

Sure. Just remember it might take a couple weeks for the pucks to get your CYA where you want it, so watch the FC each day to ensure it doesn't fall too low. But that's fine.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ok thanks- I do not have stabilizer but thinking maybe using the pucks for a bit in a floater for CYA + some FC for 1 week and monitoring= thoughts?

Also be aware of its acidic effects on ph & take that into consideration as well.
PoolMath effects of adding can help u see where each dissolved puck will land u with cya, ph, & fc based on your pool volume. Most reg pucks are 8oz & jumbos are usually 10 oz but check your package to be sure.

 

[delaneybob]

Also be aware of its acidic effects on ph & take that into consideration as well.
PoolMath effects of adding can help u see where each dissolved puck will land u with cya, ph, & fc based on your pool volume. Most reg pucks are 8oz & jumbos are usually 10 oz but check your package to be sure.

I will watch TA and PH- usually it's OK
TA is 100 PH is 7.2

 

[delaneybob]

Went out of town yesterday/today here are the results

7/12/2021 2::30pm = 11.5 ppm FC (I purposely went over) CC<0.5ppm
7/13/2021 5:00pm = 3.5 ppm FC CC<0.5ppm

Added 121oz 7.5 bleach which will get me to 8ppm FC- water is crystal clear

So I am losing ~0.25ppm FC per hour- that equates to 180oz 7.5% bleach/day- this is assuming the FC loss is linear. I go out of town till late Saturday and have to rely on girlfriend to keep FC up till i get back and can see what the loss rate is around 6-7ppm FC

My guidance to her will be 121 oz/day and test with the TC and keep it at 5 (she won't know how to do the FAS test.

Thoughts?

 

[jimmythegreek]

Looking up the light looks flat, shorter screw was the ticket. What else do you need to know about it?

 

[delaneybob]

Thanks Jimmy- The comical part is I bought a longer screw got half way home and thought "you idiot"-turned around and got the shorter screw.

A couple questions please
1. Do I need a marine grade stainless screw (e.g. 316) or does a normal stainless suffice (e.g.306)?
2. Everywhere I read says new light=pull new wire. That makes no sense to me. I would want an LED once this bulb so a replacement LED bulb (if it exists) hopefully can screw right in. If I need a new fixture, it will need to fit the hole but run a new wire? Don't see why the electrons will care.

If I can get a new bulb/fixture=- please suggest best place to look (Inyo?)

Thanks!

 

[jimmythegreek]

The pure led line from inyo are good. If a replacement lamp goes in then no issue. Depends on housing type. Any stainless will rust eventually underwater, keep am eye out amd replace every few years as the surface shows rust. As for fixture you have to pull new wire. The conduit is wet you cannot splice between light Jbox and the fixture, you could kill a swimmer one day doing that. If you open housing for bulb also get a new gasket, otherwise you will roast your new bulb $$

 

[delaneybob]

The pure led line from inyo are good. If a replacement lamp goes in then no issue. Depends on housing type. Any stainless will rust eventually underwater, keep am eye out amd replace every few years as the surface shows rust. As for fixture you have to pull new wire. The conduit is wet you cannot splice between light Jbox and the fixture, you could kill a swimmer one day doing that. If you open housing for bulb also get a new gasket, otherwise you will roast your new bulb $$

Thanks!

 

[delaneybob]

2 updates and a question
- I swapped the light- the best folks for getting the right LED replacement was Florida Sunseeker PoolTone® Color LED Pool & Spa Lights and Bulbs - can even do light sequences without replacing wiring/switch
- I found that the algae was also in the jets of the spa portion of the pool. I have rectified that and am SLAMming until I can pass OCLT. I am back to losing about 3 ppm FC overnight - it's been 4 days.

Question- If I convert to Saltwater doe s the CYA/FC matter then and what is the chance of algae vs freshwater

 

[Mdragger88]

Question- If I convert to Saltwater doe s the CYA/FC matter then and what is the chance of algae vs freshwater

Yes- You would follow the saltwater generator portion of the FC/CYA Levels
The chances for algae are the same.
if you go near/ below minimum fc for your cya things will grow
The swg just takes care of the daily chlorine dosing for you vs you manually adding liquid chlorine.