slam pool now?

[drrayb]

Hi All,

I opened my pool in Toronto, Canada this weekend as the water level was high, and I wanted to get a start on controlling the green swamp that wouldve started to form pre-opening.

water temp at 4 degrees celcius.
brushing the walls there is green streaks forming.

I put 5 pucks into the floater for now, of course they have not dissolved because its so cold.

my question is, I plan to use liquid chlorine until the salt cell comes in. should I slam this pool now? should I add a few liters at a time and slam later? just pour in the 5 gallons and forget about it?

salt cell is getting installed next week (I am aware it won't work until water temps rise)

thanks

 

[mknauss]

You follow the SLAM Process

The pucks are adding CYA. So be sure to account for what they will add to the CYA currently in the water to determine your SLAM level FC.

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[drrayb]

thanks, aware of CYA, i use the tfp test kit

aecond question, even last year when my pool would have traces of dead algae regularly, my OCLT was still acceptable (with 0 CC*)... what's the deal with that?

 

[Texas Splash]

even last year when my pool would have traces of dead algae regularly, my OCLT was still acceptable (with 0 CC*)... what's the deal with that?

Dead algae, appearing in a white or gray color, is just that - dead. So there would be no excessive FC consumption at that point. When algae is dead, it's more of a filtration issue.

 

[Mdragger88]

thanks, aware of CYA, i use the tfp test kit

aecond question, even last year when my pool would have traces of dead algae regularly, my OCLT was still acceptable (with 0 CC*)... what's the deal with that?

If it’s in your pool dead at some point it was in your pool alive. When doing the slam process you want to keep fc @ slam level until there is no visible algae left dead or alive along with passing the oclt to ensure you have fully eradicated it.
Are you following the guide for closing? It helps ensure you close algae free & remain that way until opening.

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.google.com

 

[drrayb]

yes I followed the guides every time I close. but algae always forms on opening, the chlorine is consumed over winter...

i guess I dont understand, if my CC is 0, and OCLT is good, and I keep chlorine in range relative to CYA... why do i keep killing algae? is it coz of all the stuff in the garden around the pool, it's going to form no matter what??

 

[Newdude]

It could be hiding in plain sight, from your ladder rails to light niches (etc etc) and being reintroduced. The proper sanitation in the pool may make quick work of it, with no CCs a while later, but you're seeing the remnants.

I'd go on a full blown algae treasure hunt. Every inch is suspect until you prove otherwise.

 

[Mdragger88]

I raise to slam level at close with the water 60 degrees & dropping & always open to target level fc or higher. With your cooler climate & harsher winters I suspect you just weren’t fully algae free when you closed if you’re closing late enough. You have certainly opened early enough.
The proliferation of algae is slowed at lower temperatures but it’s not eradicated. If you have warm spells through the off season its a good idea to check fc & replenish it if necessary.
Sounds like Something is consuming your fc, definitely time to go on a treasure hunt!
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs & their foam, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[drrayb]

honestly theres not many places for it to hide...2 returns, 1 skimmer. i do suspect the ladder since it sits in the dead zone of circulation and is hollow...i will give it a scrub. we are redoing the pool deck and my plan is to move the ladder in the path of the shallow end return, out of the dead zone.

does it matter that I use a safety cover at winter so both sunlight gets through it and other Crud drifts under it?
how would u add chlorine woth a safety cover in place? just pour it right thru the cover?

ok and so if I understand correctly slam is suggested even at this water temp?

thanks all

 

[Mdragger88]

You would need to undo a corner to grab a sample & to add bleach if needed you would pour it very slowly while brushing it around avoiding the pool wall & the cover. Some people use a submersible pump to circulate a little bit.
Definitely don’t pour it through the cover
I check my fc around Christmas & then again in February to be sure I am going to have enough to get me through.
Do you use polyquat?

 

[Mdragger88]

Alternatively you can add a solid cover over the top of the mesh safety cover or use a “cover mate” which goes under the safety cover.
@Newdude has a mesh safety cover perhaps he has more insight there. I have a mostly solid cover lol

 

[Newdude]

will give it a scrub. we are redoing the pool deck and my plan is to move the ladder in the path of the shallow end return, out of the dead zone.

The ladder rails themselves are a dead zone. They hold a gallon or two of stagnant water each.

does it matter that I use a safety cover at winter so both sunlight gets through it and other Crud drifts under it?

Safety covers are great, but as you know, it can billow in the wind and dust/debris blow right in. We have seen members use 3/4 or 1 inch foam rope under the cover around the perimeter with good results. The tension of the cover will keep it in place and it acts like a dam for all the blowing crud.

how would u add chlorine woth a safety cover in place? just pour it right thru the cover?

I've seen at least one cover manufacturer say you can pour though the cover if you hose it well after, but the bigger issue is that chlorine is heavier than water and may puddle up on the bottom. Regardless of which type of pool, nobody wants that. Pop a corner in the shallow end and add there. You can brush a large amount of floor with not all that much cover open.

I think the biggest issue people see is the top layer of the pool being 0 FC rain water. I was playing with mine a few weeks ago and the top foot had 0 FC, at 2 ft it was 3 and at the bottom it was 6+. After draining back down to winter level, I tossed the hose of the submersible pump on top of the cover and let the pump run for another hour to mix from the bottom. I lowered the pump down in the deep end in a 5 gallon bucket to protect the liner. The weight of the pump kept it in the bucket. (THANKS @PoolStored).

ok and so if I understand correctly slam is suggested even at this water temp

So long as the pump is running and it's mixing. Cold water SLAMs are always preferable because you won't be fighting exponential algae growth like later in the spring. Even if it's bad, it will be much quicker to fight now.

 

[drrayb]

this is what I love about this forum. Everything gets a thorough, logical explanation and there is a well thought out reason behind everything. It's a rarity in today's world.
You guys are awesome.
Thank you.

 

[drrayb]

sorry one more question - regarding vacuuming. i have a sand filter. so if i dont vacuum to waste, all the dead algae will come right back into the pool right? is that a problem? can I vacuum to waste only once or twice during the slam? that way ill have to add less replacement water and less chemical corrections...

I do have a robot but the filter basket is not fine enough for dead algae and im not about to spend 200$ for the finer one.

other options: i currently use 2 skimmer socks at once, its usually pretty good at catching dead algae if it reaches the skimmer (robot kicks it up), or i may be able to find some DE to add to the filter. for some reason no one in the city has it...

thank you again

 

[PoolStored]

sorry one more question - regarding vacuuming. i have a sand filter. so if i dont vacuum to waste, all the dead algae will come right back into the pool right? is that a problem? can I vacuum to waste only once or twice during the slam? that way ill have to add less replacement water and less chemical corrections...

I do have a robot but the filter basket is not fine enough for dead algae and im not about to spend 200$ for the finer one.

other options: i currently use 2 skimmer socks at once, its usually pretty good at catching dead algae if it reaches the skimmer (robot kicks it up), or i may be able to find some DE to add to the filter. for some reason no one in the city has it...

thank you again

You can vacuum to waste. You can use a pool brush to gently push the dead algae into one area, let is settle down, then do short vacuum to waste because it is together.
You can vacuum to the filter. It will catch it, it is made to do that. Just watch your pump pressure. When it rises 25% over clean pressure, backwash. When vacuuming it may rise rapidly, just watch it. Do you know your clean filter pressure? If not, go do a backwash an then note your pressure.

Skimmer socks will help.

 

[Mdragger88]

You certainly can vac to waste if there’s alot of debris to lighten the load on your sand filter. I wouldn’t do it every time as it does waste alot of water & dilute your fc level. The sand filter will catch most of the dead algae just not the very finest stuff.
If you’re seeing alot of stuff blow back into the pool it may be time to investigate & deep clean your sand while you’re at it.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.google.com

Adding de should only be done when you’re mostly to the filtering stage & your fc losses have slowed. You must also be available to babysit the filter as the pressure can increase quickly requiring backwashing.

Add DE to a Sand Filter

A clean pool filter will increase the efficiency of your pool! ... your filter are to backwash it, clean the manifolds and grids, and add new DE.

www.google.com

What robot do you have?

 

[drrayb]

hi, sorry for the late reply.
the robot is dolphin explorer e20, its entry level and i think it cross lists as several other models depending on the market.

this morning, did pool chemistry:
FC 1.5 (the pucks are dissolving after all lol)
CC 0.5
pH 7.8?? no idea on that ridiculous color matching thing
alk 120
cya 30
CH 250

slam level is 12.

i added the 6L of 12% bleach, scrubbed down, filter is clean (new sand last year anyways), all baskets clean, ladder is out, 2 skimmer socks, 24hr filtration on

now we wait

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[Mdragger88]

hi, sorry for the late reply.
the robot is dolphin explorer e20, its entry level and i think it cross lists as several other models depending on the market.

this morning, did pool chemistry:
FC 1.5 (the pucks are dissolving after all lol)
CC 0.5
pH 7.8?? no idea on that ridiculous color matching thing
alk 120
cya 30
CH 250

slam level is 12.

i added the 6L of 12% bleach, scrubbed down, filter is clean (new sand last year anyways), all baskets clean, ladder is out, 2 skimmer socks, 24hr filtration on

now we wait

Don’t wait too long - testing fc & replenishing slam level multiple times per day is how you get traction. As often as possible, every few hours if you can.

The genuine fine filter basket for your bot is $80 usd On Amazon & other places There’s also one on there that’s a generic for $40usd - that’s something new so no feedback on it so far but I really imagine that if it fits properly it’s probably fine. Just type in dolphin fine filter basket & double check that your bot model is on the list before purchasing.
I have the fine filter basket & love it.
it basically turns your bot into a roving filter which can only improve your current situation.