Should I Go With A Gas Heater Or Electric Heat Pump?

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It is a good installation and they installed a “sniffer pipe” over the transition from the gas line to the riser to detect future leaks (not that there should be one but a good safety check nonetheless). And they ran tracer wire too. Very professional job.
 
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So sorry to bother you guys with another question, but I’m obviously looking to install a bypass system in case anything happens to the heater or if I shock so I don’t have those harsh chemicals going through the heater

For some reason I can’t visualize how to do this. I’m thinking I definitely need to buy a 3 Way Diverter correct?

I’ll take a good picture of my setup once I get home
 
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ForceEdge said:
if I shock so I don’t have those harsh chemicals going through the heater
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Stop it. You won't blindly shock like someone being poolstored. You're one of us now and we surgically dose controlled amounts within safe levels. Our SLAM is less harsh than tap water, thanks to the CYA buffering the FC. In case we haven't posted it prior, have a read. FC/CYA Levels

Now, the other folks who don't follow science and treat CYA and FC as independent values, or the folks who don't believe in reliable testing, well, they need a bypass for when they 'Dump and Pray'.

Installing one for a possible future heater problem is silly IMO, but I'm also handy and could have a dummy pipe installed in minutes. Well. Ok. Not minutes. But that's Home Depot's fault that i have make 6 trips to 3 different stores. I HATE them with threaded fire of 1000 suns. But once I have the parts, it's be minutes. *if* I ever had to pull the heater. Most heater problems aren't catastrophic leaks and can be left in place until they're fixed.

Where the bypass scores is being able to put it in service when not using the heater. Heaters often raise your minimum RPM thresholds for the other functions. By bypassing it, you'll save electricity at lower RPMs skimming / mixing / swg-ing / etc.
 
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So I have a question guys is this a 1,000 BTU or 800🤷‍♂️

Says
1040/805 CFH @ 1/2 WC
2215/1715 CFH @ 2 WC

Just wondering

*sorry for bad picture

IMG_3583.jpeg
 
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JamesW said:
The 1000A is rated at 1040 CFH.

You probably could have gone with a 675A.

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Hmm, I guess it is what it is. They were suppose to put an 800 not sure why they put a 1,000.. should I mention anything to them?

And I know this may seem silly but, will that make my gas bill higher than what it normally is when I had the 275BTU? (not considering me using the pool heater of course)

Wondering if it’s a bigger meter that it pushes more gas to appliances than needed? Sorry if that sounds stupid lol
 
ForceEdge said:
Hmm, I guess it is what it is. They were suppose to put an 800 not sure why they put a 1,000.. should I mention anything to them?

And I know this may seem silly but, will that make my gas bill higher than what it normally is when I had the 275BTU? (not considering me using the pool heater of course)

Wondering if it’s a bigger meter that it pushes more gas to appliances than needed? Sorry if that sounds stupid lol
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No & no.

The larger meter is fine. It costs you no more.
 
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Sorry to revive this thread. Just showing everyone the progress.

After several months of delays with Leslie’s pools and Raypak..this beast was finally delivered.

The project was suppose to be done months ago considering the initial delivery date was end of October..fast forward almost three months and it’s here

Not sure it’s even worth installing until the summer.. but I might get a great deal for a pool guy to install, considering it’s winter time over here in NY. 🤷‍♂️


I do have a question on electrical. Does it matter if it gets hooked up to 120 or 240? And should I have this connected so it’s on constantly considering I can turn it on and off via phone/app or only when the pool pump kicks on? Opinions would be appreciated!!
 

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ForceEdge said:
Not sure it’s even worth installing until the summer.. but I might get a great deal for a pool guy to install, considering it’s winter time over here in NY.
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Without your pool running the installation cannot test the heater, check the gas pressures, and commission the heater. If you get a great deal on installation it may cost you a call back once the pool is open.
ForceEdge said:
I do have a question on electrical. Does it matter if it gets hooked up to 120 or 240?
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No.

ForceEdge said:
And should I have this connected so it’s on constantly considering I can turn it on and off via phone/app or only when the pool pump kicks on? Opinions would be appreciated!!
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Why would you want to turn the heater on when the pump is not running? That can damage the heater if it ignites.

See what the installation manual says about heater cool down before the pump is turned off.
 
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