Should I get a new main pump?

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

I've seen several people mention Intelliflo 3.

I'm on an old Whisperflo 3hp (probably at least 15-20 years old, before we bought the house.) Never really had issues with it. I imagine it could continue working.
But...
We are replacing our filter, (current target is Aquastar, partially because of cramped area, price, and good reviews), and will add a swcg (current target is Circupool Core). Both purchases will be overkill on size, because it seems bigger with less stress is better/more efficient. I believe we're in about a 20k pool.

The question then is.. Is it worth it to change out and get a VS pump, would the Intelliflo3 be a good option? Right now, everything (pump) is running off an intermatic timer. If we got the Intelliflo, would that 'become' the timer that controls the swcg? We don't plan on doing fancy automation - just set up a schedule and leave it alone.

Finally, based on the photo, do you think it's easy enough to replace the pump? I don't think there is a union in front of it.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Get the largest filter you can afford and we mostly recommend cartridge filters. If you want a brand name pump then the the VS3 is the highest recommended but there are also highly recommended off brand models from Calimar and Waterway that are good to have. A VSP will save you a ton of money in power use. The Circupool is also recommended but the RJ 45 or 60 would be good for you. You want it sized at least twice your pool size. Discount Salt Pools often offers to upgrade one size for about $10 so you can get the RJ60 for just a little more than the RJ45. The larger your salt cell the less it has to work to produce your chlorine.

When you connect the VS3 it will be to the hot side of the timer (not controlled by the timer) because it has it's own timer. The salt system will be on the load side of the timer so that it can be turned on AFTER the pump has primed and so that it turns off BEFORE the pump turns off. This ensures that the salt system isn't operating when no water is present.

 

[Newdude]

Both purchases will be overkill on size, because it seems bigger with less stress is better/more efficient.

You nailed it. A larger filter pays you back with proportionately less cleanings. It adds up over 20+ years.

A larger SWG costs a fraction of the lifespan gained. You are buying 50%-100% of your next SWG for 20% more.

Is it worth it to change out and get a VS pump,

With long seasons by you, once the VS pump pays for itself, it'll pay for the SWG. Then the filter.

would the Intelliflo3 be a good option?

It is not. It is an amazing option.

Right now everything is running off a timer. If we got the Intelliflo, would that 'become' the timer that controls the swcg?

Yup. Pump gets wired to breaker to always be on and the SWG gets old pump timer. Or for about $10 a month taken from your savings to run 24/7 for an always skimming, always filtering, always topped off with FC dream pool. You'll still save the bulk of the cost difference from switching. I could run mine for 24 hours on lower RPM for the cost of 2.3 hours at full bore like a single speed pump.

just set up a schedule and leave it alone.

I'm a gold medal contender in the lazy Olympics. I went with 24/7 to rarely need to fiddle with anything.

based on the photo, do you think it's easy enough to replace the pump?

Can we get a head on shot of the front of the pump to see that connection better ? Also the suction valve to the right of it.

It appears from these pics you can whack it where the white pipe stats and use the slip over part of the valve instead of the slip in part.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

Thanks bunches for the reply!

to run 24/7 for an always skimming, always filtering, always topped off with FC dream pool.

We currently (or did, before our pool started getting it's resurface) run the pump about 3 hours. I don't mind running it more, but would probably aim for 9:30pm to 4pm at most, because our electric is much more expensive 4pm to 9pm (EV rate). But with such overkill, I imagine I could get it tuned to work perfectly well in those hours.

Can we get a head on shot of the front of the pump to see that connection better ? Also the suction valve to the right of it.

It appears from these pics you can whack it where the white pipe stats and use the slip over part of the valve instead of the slip in part.

It's pretty tight there. Front to back is tighter than side to side.
The 'manifold?' where the valves are, left to right, is: Pool return, pool in, spa in, spa return. I remember it as the 'inner loop' is pulling water in, and the 'outer loop' is sending water out. And Pool is before Spa in the alphabet. Silly, I know. I'll get labels when doing my DIY.

Would the Intelliflo3 fit in the same footprint? Or close? If replacing, I suppose I could push it back a few inches, but not much. I know they say put straight pipe in front, but I rarely see it, and I certainly am limited in room.

 

[mknauss]

If you get the Intelliflo3 with the relay card, you wire the SWCG power through a relay to control the power to the SWCG.

A Calimar VS will be about half the price.

 

[Bperry]

I don't mind running it more, but would probably aim for 9:30pm to 4pm at most, because our electric is much more expensive 4pm to 9pm (EV rate). But with such overkill, I imagine I could get it tuned to work perfectly well in those hours.

The power savings (and noise savings!) from running lower speed is very significant. I wouldn’t be surprised if you can run 24x7 at low speed for less money than what you’re spending now. If not, just disable the pump from 4-9pm.

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks bunches for the reply!


We currently (or did, before our pool started getting it's resurface) run the pump about 3 hours. I don't mind running it more, but would probably aim for 9:30pm to 4pm at most, because our electric is much more expensive 4pm to 9pm (EV rate). But with such overkill, I imagine I could get it tuned to work perfectly well in those hours.


It's pretty tight there. Front to back is tighter than side to side.
The 'manifold?' where the valves are, left to right, is: Pool return, pool in, spa in, spa return. I remember it as the 'inner loop' is pulling water in, and the 'outer loop' is sending water out. And Pool is before Spa in the alphabet. Silly, I know. I'll get labels when doing my DIY.

Would the Intelliflo3 fit in the same footprint? Or close? If replacing, I suppose I could push it back a few inches, but not much. I know they say put straight pipe in front, but I rarely see it, and I certainly am limited in room.

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Label on your pump says it is a 1.5hp (2.25 total horsepower) pump, not 3. Even at that, a pump that large running a single speed is not recommended on 2" plumbing. You could install a Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 ($600 - $650) variable-speed motor that has its own control for speeds, times, etc., then use your existing time clock to control the SWG. A GO KIT 32 will have the seal and O rings, etc. needed to complete the job.
Unless you absolutely want a new pump, doing it that way would eliminate having to replumb the front of the pump. Right now it looks like there is not enough pipe in front of the pump (you should have about 8"-10" straight), but that won't matter much with low-speed water with a VSP.
You don't have a lot of room on that pad between the plumbing and the house to make many changes.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

Label on your pump says it is a 1.5hp (2.25 total horsepower) pump, not 3. Even at that, a pump that large running a single speed is not recommended on 2" plumbing. You could install a Nidec Neptune NPTQ225 ($600 - $650) variable-speed motor that has its own control for speeds, times, etc., then use your existing time clock to control the SWG. A GO KIT 32 will have the seal and O rings, etc. needed to complete the job.
Unless you absolutely want a new pump, doing it that way would eliminate having to replumb the front of the pump. Right now it looks like there is not enough pipe in front of the pump (you should have about 8"-10" straight), but that won't matter much with low-speed water with a VSP.
You don't have a lot of room on that pad between the plumbing and the house to make many changes.

Yeah, the room is an issue. I thought about moving the pump rotated (clockwise) back and toward the house, but that doesn't really solve the problem. It means a long straight toward the house, and would still be a 90 right at the pump intake. Unless I want to do rotate the pump counterclockwise (so the intake is on the right) and run some weird disneyland-queue pvc rerouting just to get the longer straight.. That seems just silly though.

Just for grits and shiggles, I tried to draw that out. How silly is it really? How worth it for the extra room in front? Does the extra 90's right at the intake make much difference? (90'diverter+90toward house+90 toward right, then 2 90's for the u-turn back to the pump) I didn't adjust my drawing for the pump out to the filter, but that's not relevant to this.

 

[1poolman1]

No, 5 elbows in front of the pump is never a good idea, and that is not even considering what is underground.
The larger of the two Aquastar filters is a very good filter for tight installations, the only difference between the two is the larger is also taller, same footprint.

 

[SoCalDIYWannabe]

When you connect the VS3 it will be to the hot side of the timer (not controlled by the timer) because it has it's own timer. The salt system will be on the load side of the timer so that it can be turned on AFTER the pump has primed and so that it turns off BEFORE the pump turns off. This ensures that the salt system isn't operating when no water is present.

I bought the pump. So on how you described it, the pump will connect to hot side, so it always has power, and therefore runs based on it's own programing/timer, correct?

Then the circupool will go on the load side (that's probably where the current single speed pump is?) and will be turned on/off by the timer. This should work fine as long as the timer is set to run the circupool within the time that the pump is running, right? I imagine if the timer turns on the circupool while the pump is off, the circupool will just not run because of no flow (safety).

 

[PoolStored]

A Variable Speed pump (VS) should have continuous power and not be connected to a timer. The pump runtime should be controlled by its internal control panel and clock. A separate mechanical timer can control the SWG. Care must then be taken for the SWG timer to turn on 15 minutes after the pump begins running and SWG power off before the pump turns off. This can become a problem when house power is lost, and the pump retains the proper time while the mechanical timer does not. Anytime you lose power, ensure you check the settings on the timer and the pump. The flow switch is a secondary safety to the timer.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[1poolman1]

I bought the pump. So on how you described it, the pump will connect to hot side, so it always has power, and therefore runs based on it's own programing/timer, correct?

Then the circupool will go on the load side (that's probably where the current single speed pump is?) and will be turned on/off by the timer. This should work fine as long as the timer is set to run the circupool within the time that the pump is running, right? I imagine if the timer turns on the circupool while the pump is off, the circupool will just not run because of no flow (safety).

You are correct. The pump will keep the time setting for a long time.
IF you have a power outage, be sure to reset the mechanical time clock as soon as you can. The flow switch will keep the SWG off until then.