Several issues - salt vs chlorine?

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paul1971

Bronze Supporter
Jun 29, 2023
121
NJ
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Hi guys, i posted previously as i had been having troubles on keeping my water clear.
Up until i had a chlorine system never had issues.
3 years ago i switched to salt:

Year 1 no issues
Year 2 green water due to (apparently) iron…
Year 3 green liner, water more or less clear
Year 4 used jacks magic to clear liner. Raised salt slowly no shock. After a few days pool gets cloudy. Added shock, turns green. After 3 days of shock now looks fine. Liner no more staines.

I was told by pool place that was most likely algea.
Added calcium as well as it was low. All levels are fine except calcium and phosphate that reads 4000.

Is there a possibility that my salt generator is faulty? I feel i have been having issues since i switched to salt.

Any opinion is welcomed.
Thanks
 
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Without test results - it's hard to guess (for both of us.)

TFP principles are based around self-testing.
Is it algae? Testing can confirm. Is it definitely not algae? Testing can confirm.

A salt water pool is a chlorine pool; there's virtually no difference. If you don't have enough free chlorine (FC) and algae is growing, it doesn't matter if you use cal-hypo granules, chlorine tabs, liquid chlorine, or a SWCG.

FC/CYA Levels
 
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The latest test results shows:

Free chlorine 1.09 (range 1/4)
Total chlorine 1.88
Calcium hardness 85
Phosphates 4000

Everything else is perfect.

Today pool is better as i assume there is more chlorine.
What indicator is for algae? I thought phosphate?

Thanks
 
paul1971 said:
The latest test results shows:

Free chlorine 1.09 (range 1/4)
Total chlorine 1.88
Calcium hardness 85
Phosphates 4000

Everything else is perfect.
Click to expand...
Perfect is very debatable as Pool Store testing is both inaccurate, and their recommended levels are typically wrong.

It's up to you whose advice you want to follow. The FC/CYA Levels relationship is what TFP principles are based on, but your testing doesn't even show CYA results. With that said, there's no CYA level where 1 FC is acceptable, so that's precisely the reason you have algae.

You must have proper Free Chlorine levels, relative to CYA in the pool, to maintain an algae-free experience. It's really that simple. Currently, you have basically no free chlorine, and evidence of organics (Combined Chloramines, which TC-FC=CC) in your water.

Pool Care Basics
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How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
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+3 on what they said 🙌
@paul1971 ,
You must take care of any algae first w/
SLAM Process as mentioned above.
then we can troubleshoot your swcg to see if there’s a problem with it.
No swcg can overcome an algae problem once it occurs- they are simply not designed to do so.

paul1971 said:
What indicator is for algae?
Click to expand...
*If Fc has been below minimum for your cya there’s the potential for algae.
See—> FC/CYA Levels
*Cloudy water.
*Failing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
*Visible algae (dead or alive) anywhere in the pool

Until you get one of the recommended kits (taylor k2006c +salt or tf100/pro salt) in your hands you should add 3ppm worth of liquid chlorine to the pool each day to prevent it from getting worse. This simply replaces what is lost each day.
Nothing else.
Use PoolMath to calculate amounts.
When your kit comes- do all the tests & post the results here & we can go from there.
 
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Hi all, quick update. First, thank you for all the input, i am clear on the need of testing more than just what they do at pool places. Meanwhile the algae is gone, the pool is super clear but the FC level remains at unacceptable level.
The test i did yesterday shows FC at 0.2 and alkalinity at 21. Salt is a bit high at 3428 but i think is fine.
It appears that despite shocking it twice the FC stay low.
Is it possible that salt generator is malfunctioning? Or something is eating chlorine fast?
Again, pool looks visually perfect, adding alkalinity of course.
Any opinion?
 
What test kit are you using? Test Kits Compared
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Chances are you have a nascent algae bloom.
"Clear" water doesn't mean algae free water.

We don't provide advice based on pool store testing.
 
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proavia said:
What test kit are you using? Test Kits Compared
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Chances are you have a nascent algae bloom.
"Clear" water doesn't mean algae free water.

We don't provide advice based on pool store testing.
Click to expand...

Ok i am buying the tf100 and will post results.
 
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Until your kit comes you can safely add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day. This will simply keep things from going swampy until you have good data to work with.
Add nothing else.
Use PoolMath to calculate amounts.

*Btw- pool stores often report “adjusted alkalinity” which is your actual ta minus some of your cya.
So do not adjust your ta based on pool store results.

It is certainly possible that you have algae- a swcg cannot overcome an algae problem- they are simply not designed to.

Here at tfp we eliminate variables in a scientific manner.
We must rule out the possibility of algae first with accurate testing,
treat that if necessary by following the slam process ,
and then move on to troubleshooting your swcg.
Unlike the shotgun approach/dump & pray method.
Looking forward to seeing your results soon 👍🏻
 
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Hello.
Here are the results:

Hardness 25
TC 0,5
FC 0
Bromine 0
Alkalinity 180
CYA 30-50
Ph 8
Salt level is good
Phosphate 4000

As suggested i added 10-15 oz of liquid chlorine daily.
Water is clear just a tiny tiny bit hazy but really not bothersome.

I just dont understand why chlorine does not go up…
 
You haven't gotten your test kit yet, have you? Assuming so, since it doesn't include a phosphate test.....all other testings methods can be VERY suspect.
Since they are probably wrong, you have no clear idea as to what is really happening with your levels.

How big is your pool (gallons)? It would help to go to your user profile here, and in the signature list pool size, type (plaster, vinyl, etc), above or in ground, equipment brands and models, any special features - spa, waterfalls, etc. and that you are using the TF100 kit. That way we don't have to keep asking about those parts.
 
sande005 said:
You haven't gotten your test kit yet, have you? Assuming so, since it doesn't include a phosphate test.....all other testings methods can be VERY suspect.
Since they are probably wrong, you have no clear idea as to what is really happening with your levels.

How big is your pool (gallons)? It would help to go to your user profile here, and in the signature list pool size, type (plaster, vinyl, etc), above or in ground, equipment brands and models, any special features - spa, waterfalls, etc. and that you are using the TF100 kit. That way we don't have to keep asking about those parts.
Click to expand...
Hello, i got the tf100 test and i did myself. The readings are from the test you guys suggested except phosphate that has been reading constant at pool store. I also tested nitrate myself and came at 0 so i did not report it here. My pool is small about 11k gallons.
Thank you
 
You would be able to rescue someone, or they would see you. Its a swimmer safety thing. (y)
 

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