Stoopalini
Gold Supporter
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Seem to be using a lot of stabilizer
- Thread starter Cmelser
- Start date
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,627
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I feel your pain. However, you are still mixing and matching advice. Many of us have had similar experiences. Let me give you this last piece of advice. Get a bunch of LC from the pool store, I live in Florida too, and its cheap. SLAM your pool for two days. You will not void any warranty doing that and it will not cost a lot of money. How does the pool builder know what level your FC was a week ago, he has no ability to test that, nobody does. What do you have to lose. Then do an OCLT, but again SLAM first. Then for two weeks run your FC hot. Run it at 15, well below SLAM level but high enough to kill any residuals. You will need LC and you will not be able to do that with the SWG alone.
Its your pool, do what you want. Thousands of people have used this methodology and it works for them. I am one of the converts. I struggled for years, and hated my pool that had all this issues you had. Now I have none of those. Am I perfect, no. I made a mistake this year and got some black algae. I went back to my the basics and followed the great advice given here, and my pool looks amazing. My pool gets full Florida sun all day long and I keep it looking great and have no issues maintaining FC.
Now, my pool is hot, and I get a LOT of rain so I have to add CYA quite often. No problem, I buy it off Amazon for $2 per lb and I test CYA often. I stock up on LC from Leslies whenever they have a coupon and supplement my SWG to make sure I keep my FC on the high end of the range. All my neighbors and friends are envious of how my pool looks.
Rule #1. Amateurs run their FC towards the lower end of the range, and the experts here run it on the high end of the range. Guess who’s pools look better?
Its your pool, do what you want. Thousands of people have used this methodology and it works for them. I am one of the converts. I struggled for years, and hated my pool that had all this issues you had. Now I have none of those. Am I perfect, no. I made a mistake this year and got some black algae. I went back to my the basics and followed the great advice given here, and my pool looks amazing. My pool gets full Florida sun all day long and I keep it looking great and have no issues maintaining FC.
Now, my pool is hot, and I get a LOT of rain so I have to add CYA quite often. No problem, I buy it off Amazon for $2 per lb and I test CYA often. I stock up on LC from Leslies whenever they have a coupon and supplement my SWG to make sure I keep my FC on the high end of the range. All my neighbors and friends are envious of how my pool looks.
Rule #1. Amateurs run their FC towards the lower end of the range, and the experts here run it on the high end of the range. Guess who’s pools look better?
No auto fill appear to be no leaks. I watch the level and doesn’t drop quick. Only after rain thru overflow.
It sounds like you're having quite the time and sorry to hear of your troubles. You're getting the best advice here already, but I wanted to just add that a SWG does not increase chlorine levels on its own. You need to use liquid chlorine to get your FC level up and then your SWG should maintain it. You may have to play with the dial of the SWG a bit until you find the percentage that maintains your FC. Anyway, good luck and hang in there.
That’s true they wouldn’t know. Before this all started I ran at the level suggested for cya. Once it started dropping I could not keep up. It would drop then come back. At one point I was running my system at 85% with a level of 4. I will try slam and if it breaks it breaks. If there’s something there I guess it will be fixed. Kids will be mad they can’t swim for days the first summer with pool which is exactly what I didn’t want to happen. It is what it is at this point
- May 3, 2014
- 58,745
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The SLAM Process does not prevent swimming in the pool. If you cannot see the bottom of the pool, that prevents you from swimming.
Alright so last night it appears I ended the day just a little over 4ppm. This am I grabbed a sample a little bit after my pump started, thought my wife got it before 7am. So this am my test shows I am at 5ppm.
which means my test last night was probably a 5 and I miss counted in a hurry. So it appears that there is no loss overnight at this point and that I am actually gaining. We had a good rain again last night that carried on past pump shut off so that’s two evenings of good rain on top of the pool snake oil non chlorine shock. So either that shock has More chlorine than advertised or the oxidizer portion did something or the only other difference was I pulled the filter and rinsed it down Saturday. Or my salt cell after turning off and on decided to produce again. So are the results today that appear to show 0 loss acceptable or do I still
Have a potential issue? I am home all day today so I am going to pull water at around 12 or 1 and also around the usual time I check at 6pm.
I am starting to gather that maybe I need a few bags of this or a jug of chlorine around at this point and when I start to fall a little of the cell doesn’t catch it then add supplemental. What aggravates me the most is several I know never add chlorine to help and really never have to adjust. Which keeps leading me to my cell or controller is not doing it’s job correctly. When the system was first installed and turned on in November I was at 5% and making tons, I know the weather and temperatures make a difference but I was constantly at 8-12 then one week i had to crank to 80 before it fell below 4 and it never really kept up. So I am just struggling. Happy it appears to be going back up now but confused
which means my test last night was probably a 5 and I miss counted in a hurry. So it appears that there is no loss overnight at this point and that I am actually gaining. We had a good rain again last night that carried on past pump shut off so that’s two evenings of good rain on top of the pool snake oil non chlorine shock. So either that shock has More chlorine than advertised or the oxidizer portion did something or the only other difference was I pulled the filter and rinsed it down Saturday. Or my salt cell after turning off and on decided to produce again. So are the results today that appear to show 0 loss acceptable or do I still
Have a potential issue? I am home all day today so I am going to pull water at around 12 or 1 and also around the usual time I check at 6pm.
I am starting to gather that maybe I need a few bags of this or a jug of chlorine around at this point and when I start to fall a little of the cell doesn’t catch it then add supplemental. What aggravates me the most is several I know never add chlorine to help and really never have to adjust. Which keeps leading me to my cell or controller is not doing it’s job correctly. When the system was first installed and turned on in November I was at 5% and making tons, I know the weather and temperatures make a difference but I was constantly at 8-12 then one week i had to crank to 80 before it fell below 4 and it never really kept up. So I am just struggling. Happy it appears to be going back up now but confused
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,627
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
So a theory that I have is that you have a small pool. Two adults and two children in the pool will consume a lot of FC. While your levels are fine before everyone gets in the pool they drop below what is acceptable after. If your FC is low, you get algae. The algae consumes more FC, and the cycle grows. Your SWG will never keep up to an algae bloom. Even now at 5ppm you are running at the low range.
It is up to you whether you think your SLAM is complete. Personally I would run at SLAM level for two more days to be sure. After that why not run your FC at 10ppm for the next two weeks and see what happens.
It is up to you whether you think your SLAM is complete. Personally I would run at SLAM level for two more days to be sure. After that why not run your FC at 10ppm for the next two weeks and see what happens.
I’m in Tampa. I use SWG. But, when super hot, or lots of swimming, I add a bit of LC to boost FC. I don’t want to use SWG to raise FC, just to maintain it. I don’t keep FC at minimum, I keep it a couple of points higher. I don’t remember what your CYA is, but if it isn’t between 70 and 80, use Pool Math to calculate how much you need to add via the sick method, then use the Chlorine/CYA chart to determine your target. Go a point or two higher, and use LC to get there. Then let your SWG try to maintain.
I add nothing else to my pool. My ph is super stable, so I’ve only had to use muriatic acid 2 or 3 time over the last several years. You really don’t need much else, and when you only use LC (no powdered stuff) you aren’t adding stuff you don’t need to your pool.
I add nothing else to my pool. My ph is super stable, so I’ve only had to use muriatic acid 2 or 3 time over the last several years. You really don’t need much else, and when you only use LC (no powdered stuff) you aren’t adding stuff you don’t need to your pool.
I target between 7 and 8 for my FC, with CYA at 70, and my SWG keeps that up nicely. If i’ve been in with sunscreen all over me, or the yard just got mowed and kicked up a bunch of dust, or pollen is heavy, etc, I’ll thrown in just a bit of LC.
I know the generator can’t make it fast enough that’s where the confusion is. I may be right at the good level and with no swimming I am all of a sudden at 1.5. It’s like the system stops adding for a couple hours. So I get it back up and it does it again. I keep stabilizer at 70-80 the best I can. So I was trying to keep chlorine 6-8 for awhile. I got to 8 and lowered it some to stay there and not long after I dropped even with no real use. I know the the small pool factor has to be part of it. But I see people with none of these issues and not really paying attention to their pool. I watch it and can’t keep the swings from happening. I bought the test kit do it myself keep it clean and I am all over the board. A friend has pool store test his weekly hardly ever vacuums or brushes and he sits with his system on 35, keeps chlorine at 3-4. I believe in the TFP thoughts for sure but something just seems to be not working correctly. How can I keep everything in balance and have crazy shifts in chlorine and everything else is stable?
i am trying not to be frustrated but when I go from 1.5 to 5 and counting by adding one bag of stuff I can’t figure out why It now seems fine if I had hidden algae it seems I would never start to gain again. Right Now according to pool app I should end up close to 8. I am most likely going to still go buy some chlorine today and raise to 10 as suggested and hold it. I don’t want my kids not to be able to swim but I also want to rule out this stupid issue. I am also probably going to call the pool builder and start to push replacement of the system or ask to upgrade to the bigger cell.
Don’t get me wrong I am not trying to deny your help at all I am just really tired of the issue and want to determine if it is a system issue or a water issue.
i am trying not to be frustrated but when I go from 1.5 to 5 and counting by adding one bag of stuff I can’t figure out why It now seems fine if I had hidden algae it seems I would never start to gain again. Right Now according to pool app I should end up close to 8. I am most likely going to still go buy some chlorine today and raise to 10 as suggested and hold it. I don’t want my kids not to be able to swim but I also want to rule out this stupid issue. I am also probably going to call the pool builder and start to push replacement of the system or ask to upgrade to the bigger cell.
Don’t get me wrong I am not trying to deny your help at all I am just really tired of the issue and want to determine if it is a system issue or a water issue.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,627
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you CYA is 70 your kids can swim very safely up to a FC of 28. So 10 is nothing to worry about. There are a few things about your post that concern me: " So I was trying to keep chlorine 6-8 for awhile. I got to 8 and lowered it some ". Dont do that. You live in south Florida. Count on your pool losing 4ppm a day with nobody swimming in it. Adjust your SWG to add 4ppm per day. Also stop with the powders. Get LC, it is the one thing that is cheap and fresh in the pool stores down here. If anybody swims in the pool add 5ppm that day.
Also another quote " I may be right at the good level and with no swimming I am all of a sudden at 1.5. " If you start at a FC of 10 this will never happen. Keeping a higher FC level gives you a buffer for mistakes. If you ever get to 1.5 chances are you develop algae and have to SLAM again.
I stand by my initial advice. Get your level to 28ppm for two days, then drop it to 10 for two weeks. Your kids can swim the entire time.
Also another quote " I may be right at the good level and with no swimming I am all of a sudden at 1.5. " If you start at a FC of 10 this will never happen. Keeping a higher FC level gives you a buffer for mistakes. If you ever get to 1.5 chances are you develop algae and have to SLAM again.
I stand by my initial advice. Get your level to 28ppm for two days, then drop it to 10 for two weeks. Your kids can swim the entire time.
When I said lowered I meant that I just took the cell like 5% down to maintain. This is the issue. I can get the chlorine up and it will sit at 8 for days then just one day it bottoms. I have my system to make about 6ppm a day currently according to the app. I should have been making 4-5 before this week. I will but chlorine today if I can get to the store. Will probably go ahead and take your advice. I do have a call into the pool builder, who now seems
To want to help me out. After talking to their service department again they also seem to feel something isn’t right. I will get chlorine to have on Hand. They are telling me that with my set up I should not need to add chlorine. That tons of their systems are running with no additional chlorine and being used more than mine. I see the need for your recommendation and agree it should be tried. I understand heat and sun that’s the thing one week high UV and no clouds high heat and it holds good one week same conditions it drops. One week clouds and rain it drops one week clouds and it stays. Shock hold levels high then gone again after a week or two. If the equipment wouldn’t have shut itself down one weekend and lost its settings I would be more into Thinking it’s all about the chlorine level. When the system says it’s at 2800 salt and all of a sudden shuts down and says the level is 1000 and that the cell needs cleaned and I couldn’t reset then the next morning it’s fine but it changed the cell size and other items. Reset everything and it fired up and started raising the level that day. I have a plan now thanks to your help and will give it a try unless they come
Out today and replace equipment(which I doubt)
To want to help me out. After talking to their service department again they also seem to feel something isn’t right. I will get chlorine to have on Hand. They are telling me that with my set up I should not need to add chlorine. That tons of their systems are running with no additional chlorine and being used more than mine. I see the need for your recommendation and agree it should be tried. I understand heat and sun that’s the thing one week high UV and no clouds high heat and it holds good one week same conditions it drops. One week clouds and rain it drops one week clouds and it stays. Shock hold levels high then gone again after a week or two. If the equipment wouldn’t have shut itself down one weekend and lost its settings I would be more into Thinking it’s all about the chlorine level. When the system says it’s at 2800 salt and all of a sudden shuts down and says the level is 1000 and that the cell needs cleaned and I couldn’t reset then the next morning it’s fine but it changed the cell size and other items. Reset everything and it fired up and started raising the level that day. I have a plan now thanks to your help and will give it a try unless they come
Out today and replace equipment(which I doubt)
Ok. Here is another update
1:00 I pulled more water. Sun is right on pool it’s hot and breezy.
FC-8.5
CC-0
PH-7.6
I apparently gave the cell crack in that bag of stuff. This is what I am talking about it defies normal thought
1:00 I pulled more water. Sun is right on pool it’s hot and breezy.
FC-8.5
CC-0
PH-7.6
I apparently gave the cell crack in that bag of stuff. This is what I am talking about it defies normal thought
Today update. I didn’t buy chlorine at this point as all of a sudden even with the rain I am now still increasing in chlorine levels. I went from not being able to go above 1.5 to tonight at 6pm:
FC-13
CC-0
PH-7.8-8
Adding acid right now. And lowering the swg back to 55ish for a day. I did find harder pieces of calcium flake in pool yesterday and still had a lot of the small flakes that are soft. This is why I am adding the acid tonight and not waiting. I don’t understand the now rising level of chlorine but it appears that the non chlorine stuff did something or cleaning my filter did, or the cell decided to start working. The pool builder is going to come out Monday and look it all over again and run his own water tests. They feel something maybe wrong now as well with the system. I also have brand new screen enclosure screws starting to rust and some other stuff but talking to them yesterday they now see the frustration and feel there is something up with the system. The last two days the system is acting like they expect it to and they also can’t explain why the rise is all of a sudden happening. They also dont understand why the flakes are present with present water conditions. So for whomever is still following my nonsense I am still at a loss but now I am making a lot of chlorine.
FC-13
CC-0
PH-7.8-8
Adding acid right now. And lowering the swg back to 55ish for a day. I did find harder pieces of calcium flake in pool yesterday and still had a lot of the small flakes that are soft. This is why I am adding the acid tonight and not waiting. I don’t understand the now rising level of chlorine but it appears that the non chlorine stuff did something or cleaning my filter did, or the cell decided to start working. The pool builder is going to come out Monday and look it all over again and run his own water tests. They feel something maybe wrong now as well with the system. I also have brand new screen enclosure screws starting to rust and some other stuff but talking to them yesterday they now see the frustration and feel there is something up with the system. The last two days the system is acting like they expect it to and they also can’t explain why the rise is all of a sudden happening. They also dont understand why the flakes are present with present water conditions. So for whomever is still following my nonsense I am still at a loss but now I am making a lot of chlorine.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,627
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Do you believe that you have successfully completed your SLAM? Please post a full set of test results and we can look at what might be causing your flakes.
FC-13
CC-0
PH-7.5 added acid tonight
CH-300
TA-100-110 might have missed a drop.
CSI- -0.15 if above numbers are in line.
To answer the did I finish the Slam question, I never started a slam. I put in non chlorine shock per pool builder and other advice(yes against all advice on here). That went in Saturday. Sunday I went up to 4ppm from 1.5. Monday numbers in previous post 5 then 8.5. Now today 13. I couldn’t get above 1.5 for days including running super chlorinate for about 6 hours. I was going to slam but chlorine decided to continue to go up. So did I finish a slam? I guess, did I pass a Overnight test I think so as I went up. Keep in mind I have never climbed this high sitting at 55% for 12 hours a day and last month shocking twice with cal hypo per builder. I went back down both times. So what in the world was the difference of using this non chlorine shock that put my system into better operation then since it’s been installed? The flakes no one can seem to figure out because my chemistry is just fine. The highest I get in PH is 6 maybe for a couple days before I add. Normally it’s about 7.8 before I get to adding. Pool builder stumped, pool stores stumped, pool company friend stumped. Seems like I may have some stumped here also. I know I am stumped.
CC-0
PH-7.5 added acid tonight
CH-300
TA-100-110 might have missed a drop.
CSI- -0.15 if above numbers are in line.
To answer the did I finish the Slam question, I never started a slam. I put in non chlorine shock per pool builder and other advice(yes against all advice on here). That went in Saturday. Sunday I went up to 4ppm from 1.5. Monday numbers in previous post 5 then 8.5. Now today 13. I couldn’t get above 1.5 for days including running super chlorinate for about 6 hours. I was going to slam but chlorine decided to continue to go up. So did I finish a slam? I guess, did I pass a Overnight test I think so as I went up. Keep in mind I have never climbed this high sitting at 55% for 12 hours a day and last month shocking twice with cal hypo per builder. I went back down both times. So what in the world was the difference of using this non chlorine shock that put my system into better operation then since it’s been installed? The flakes no one can seem to figure out because my chemistry is just fine. The highest I get in PH is 6 maybe for a couple days before I add. Normally it’s about 7.8 before I get to adding. Pool builder stumped, pool stores stumped, pool company friend stumped. Seems like I may have some stumped here also. I know I am stumped.
Just so you know for the future, a PH reading when the FC is above 10ppm isn't accurate. So the 7.8- 8 can be different in actuality. Test again only after the FC gets below 10ppm.
Yeppers I understand that. There is a difference from yesterday when I was 8.5 until today at 13. I added less than what was recommended for acid as a precaution. Trying to keep PH around 7.4 or 7.6. To see if helps with flakes. Rain has been keeping lower lately.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,627
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also before you added your acid you said your pH was higher, 7.8 or maybe higher. I believe meant to say it might hang around 8 for a few days before you add acid.
At a pH of 8 assuming a 90 degree pool temp, your CSI is .39. That is why you are getting flakes.
At a pH of 8 assuming a 90 degree pool temp, your CSI is .39. That is why you are getting flakes.