Second year in house, first year maintaining pool

[threeinchtabs]

Last summer season I had an independent pool guy maintain the pool, he did a great job, water stayed clear, didn't need much in the way of chemicals. I watched him closely and learned a lot from asking questions. I've spent a lot of time reading these forums so I have an idea of what to do this year. I had him open the pool and get it started, the water is clear and looks good. This forum has already saved me time and money by not getting "poolstored".

It's a vinyl liner pool, rectangular, shallow and deep ends, estimate about 20k gallons. I'm chlorinating with trichlor tablets, I know this isn't ideal but it will do for now. Last year the pool guy used a Taylor test kit in the blue case and said things were pretty good most weeks. The plumbing is relatively simple compared to some pools on this forum...one variable speed pump, two skimmers, one set of two drains on the bottom, two returns in the shallow end.

I don't have any maintenance equipment so I've ordered a vacuum head, pole, vacuum hose, brush, net, and a vacuum plate to connect to one of the skimmers. I ordered a TF test kit so I can see what's going on with the water.

Tasks completed Summer 2022:
Removed rusted out gas heater, plumbing was bypassed before I moved in.
Set schedule on variable speed pump instead of being controlled by time clock.
Remove Polaris booster pump and connect plumbing to bypass. Cleaner did not come with the house. I connected and tried the booster pump, it ran for 30 seconds before making a dreadful noise and started smoking. I put an eyeball return in the cleaner return for now.
Removed broken check valve from return path, found it was severely restricting flow and causing high pressure in the sand filter and the multiport was leaking from the sight glass and out the waste port.
Installed new sand filter with multiport, new sand. The returns flow a lot better after removing the check valve and replacing the filter.

To do Summer 2023:
Install GFCI breaker for pool pump
Get the light working - new bulb and gasket, verify light is GFCI protected
Get a salt system

I'm pretty new to pools, how am I doing so far?

 

[V___25]

Hi and welcome! Sounds like you are on the right track but we'll be curious to see your numbers when you test with your TF-100. The biggest initial concern from a chemical standpoint is going to be your CYA if you are using tabs.

 

[threeinchtabs]

The test kit has arrived!!!! I've discovered I've been using tablets that are not recommended because they have copper in them! I pulled them out of the feeder yesterday. I'm DONE with tabs. The water I thought was clear is filthy compared to these pools! How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Please).

Water temperature unknown - thermometer arrives Friday but I estimate about 50-55 degrees.
FC 15-16 (I did the chorine test twice)
CC 0-1
PH 7.5
CH 375
TA 150
CYA 90

I already know why the CYA is way too high: trichlor tablets. I'm draining a bunch of water. It's a vinyl liner pool so I'm afraid of draining it too much. I'm going to go a foot below the skimmers in the deep end which should leave enough in the shallow end.

Are the other numbers plausible? It's my first time using the TF-100....I see why the speed stir is recommended. I did the tests twice and got similar results both times.

 

[V___25]

Congrats on your first test results! Good call on kicking those pucks to the curb. Our pools are similar in size and equipment so I'll be curious to see your CYA after your partial drain.

You might want to double check that CC number. 0 or .5 is good. CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem.
Try doing an OCLT to see if there's something brewing in your water.

 

[PoolStored]

I already know why the CYA is way too high: trichlor tablets. I'm draining a bunch of water. It's a vinyl liner pool so I'm afraid of draining it too much. I'm going to go a foot below the skimmers in the deep end which should leave enough in the shallow end.

We recommend a no drain water exchange...in this article:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

Since your cya is 90 you should do the diluted test to confirm the #
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Be sure to do the test in bright light or preferably outdoors on a sunny day.
Once you have confirmed your cya #
Then Follow the no drain water exchange as @PoolStored linked so you can exchange the correct % of your water to get down to around 40 ppm.
It’s 1:1 so if cya is 90 a 50% exchange will get you to 45.

You use much more water with multiple partial drains because it all mixes. You also don’t want your liner to shift or float.

 

[threeinchtabs]

Congrats on your first test results! Good call on kicking those pucks to the curb. Our pools are similar in size and equipment so I'll be curious to see your CYA after your partial drain.

You might want to double check that CC number. 0 or .5 is good. CC over 0.5ppm indicates a problem.
Try doing an OCLT to see if there's something brewing in your water.

Thank you! I finished refilling after draining so I'm going to test again.

We recommend a no drain water exchange...in this article:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

OK, makes much more sense than the partial drains. I'm waiting for a thermometer to arrive to determine where to drain and fill from.

Since your cya is 90 you should do the diluted test to confirm the #
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Be sure to do the test in bright light or preferably outdoors on a sunny day.
Once you have confirmed your cya #
Then Follow the no drain water exchange as @PoolStored linked so you can exchange the correct % of your water to get down to around 40 ppm.
It’s 1:1 so if cya is 90 a 50% exchange will get you to 45.

You use much more water with multiple partial drains because it all mixes. You also don’t want your liner to shift or float.

The CYA test is the one I find most challenging. I'm going to test again now that I finished refilling. I tested my fill water to practice and see what's in my tap water.

Fill water:
FC 2
CC 0.5
PH 7.2
CH 100
TA 50
CYA 0

Pool water after partial drain and fill:
FC 8.5
CC 0.5
PH 7.5
CH 275
TA 100
CYA 50-60???

For the chlorine test, I dissolve the powder, count the drops of R-0871 needed for the solution to go clear. After I add 5 drops of R-0003, the solution turns a faint pink. One drop of R-0871 turns the solution perfectly clear again, that's why I'm reporting CC 0.5

I'm struggling with the CYA test. It looks the same from 50-30. I might have overestimated on the first test. I'm not sure.

Typically 4 trichlor tabs a week were dissolved in the feeder last season. At closing last year the water was drained to below the skimmers. It filled up to the normal level over the winter from snow and rain. I've backwashed the filter 3 times since opening at the beginning of April (backwash 2 minutes, rinse 1 minute). I drained it back down to closing level (foot below skimmers) before the opening, and then refilled it again. I drained it to the same level last night, refilled and tested.

 

[Mdragger88]

Let the water circulate several hours before testing cya.
Also you can pour the solution back into the little bottle & do the last part of the test as many times as you need to feel confident in the result.
Glance, don’t stare - bright light is best!

Many municipalities have cc’s in the water- the sun and adequate fc will likely dissipate that in the pool quickly.
Since you had elevated cc’s before draining & such a high cya level you may want to do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure nothing is brewing. At least now getting to slam level is not such an unattainable task if needed.

Incase you’re wondering here’s what each dissolved 8oz tab does to your water

 

[threeinchtabs]

I tested the CYA again after running the pump for 24 hours. It seems the same, around 50-60. I'm going to order the standard samples from TF to make sure I'm testing correctly. Standard Sampler

I'm getting the picture as to how to manage the water chemistry - the target FC level depends on the CYA level - so I need to know my accurate CYA level. Since I have to exchange water to lower CYA, it doesn't make sense to worry about reducing my TA to the recommended level until CYA is correct.

I'm deciding what SWG to get, probably going to get the AutoPilot ChlorSync CS40 AutoPilot ChlorSync CS40 Electronic Chlorine Generator-CS40-

It won't really be warm enough to swim until the end of May anyway, the thermometer arrived, water temperature 58 degrees. I'll worry about getting a heater next year, I want to focus on keeping the water clear and chemistry in check for a season.

 

[PoolStored]

Since I have to exchange water to lower CYA, it doesn't make sense to worry about reducing my TA to the recommended level until CYA is correct.

I wouldn't worry about a TA of 100. As you manage pH with muriatic acid, it will come down over time. Just keep your pH in the 7s. When you hit 8 reduce it to 7.6. Manage the pH.

 

[Mdragger88]

If you’re between two cya values - round up. So call it 60 & chlorinate accordingly.
FC/CYA Levels aim for target range & don’t play kissy face with minimum.
A 40k gal rated cell is a good choice for your 20k gal pool as it’s within the 2x’s or larger recommendation. Is there a particular reason you want a chlor sync?
There are several circupool options within the 40k rating that boast more output for less $ & have longer warranties. Then there is also Hayward Aquarite which is a contender if you’re interested in future automation of any kind since all your other equipment is hayward.

 

[threeinchtabs]

Standard samples ordered.

Today's results:
FC 20
CC 0 -0.5 (after adding the 5 drops of R-0003, the solution turns the faintest of pinks, and goes 100% clear after 1 drop of R0871)
CH 250
TA 100
PH 7.8
CYA 60 - not sure if this is correct

I'm keeping the chlorine above the target for CYA 60 because I'm not confident in my CYA testing. The water is pretty clear - clearer than I thought "clear" was with the tabs. We'll see when the standard samples arrive. The pool may be closer to 25,000 gallons. It's a relatively standard rectangle, time to measure it. It makes sense to keep the chorine higher than the minimum, I don't want things going cloudy. When I'm sure of the CYA level and have the SWG dialed in, this will be a lot easier. I'm getting closer!!

I'm looking at the Circupool SWGs now, I see they're on sale until May 1, time to make a decision! The Chor sync was recommended to me, I'm not dead set on it.

I'm not planning on adding automation, I like running the pump 24x7 at a lower speed...I like to see the water moving when I look out the window. There are a lot of trees that hang over the pool, the skimmer baskets fill up daily this time of year.

 

[Mdragger88]

Do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out algae & if you pass carrying on with high target for your cya is sufficient. The ph test is invalid at fc levels over 10ppm so don’t attempt to adjust that until your fc falls & you retest.
If you fail the oclt then it’s
SLAM Process time.

 

[threeinchtabs]

Thanks for all the help and advice so far! I don't trust my CYA testing and suspect the level is higher (closer to 80-90) so I'm keeping the FC high until the standard samples arrive and I know what I'm dealing with. After raising it over 20: yesterday morning 21.5, yesterday evening 25.5, this morning 30, the water is noticeably clearer, crystal clear. Yesterday morning filter pressure was was up (normal @ 3450 12psi, was at 20. Normally I don't run the pump at full speed, only to vacuum or check filter pressure). The backwash water was gross and dirtier than usual. This morning FC tested at 30 and CC 0. Clearly I'm on the right track. It rained a lot over the weekend and overnight so I didn't do the OCLT. Tonight is good for the OCLT we'll see what the results are.

 

[PoolStored]

I don't trust my CYA testing and suspect the level is higher (closer to 80-90) so I'm keeping the FC high until the standard samples arrive and I know what I'm dealing with.

Standard is a great thing. You should do a diluted CYA test if you think it is that high.

Add pool water to bottom of sticker/line.
Add tap water to top of sticker/line.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker/line.
Add reagent to top of sticker/line.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Double the result.

Hope that helps!

 

[clambert1273]

I just wanted to chime in on the CYA test. It was the hardest for me to master until I really dug deep into posts here over the years. The easiest way for myself is I mix the sample then grab my skinny tube with the dot. I go into my yard & find the sun then whichever way it is I move to that spot in the yard & turn my back. I then hold up my dot tube and fill to first line (100 I believe) then I lower it to my waist & look across the yard at something for a sec then glance down to my tube quick and look away again. If I saw a dot, then I raise my tube and fill to next line and so on. There is no guessing this way it is either visible or not "trust me" lol.

 

[threeinchtabs]

I keep doing the CYA test over and over again. It never goes totally obscured even when the tube is completely full like in the example picture. The standard samples should arrive today or tomorrow so I'll be able to put the CYA question to rest this week! One way or another I'll figure it out. Thank you for all the tips and hints on how to read it. I've been keeping the FC over 20 and the water has REALLY cleared up this week!

Please excuse my old bleached liner and the leaves and dirt - there are multiple trees that overhang the pool so the skimmer baskets fill up daily this time of year and I have to vacuum every other day if not daily. It's so much better than last year!!

Replaced the pool light bulb & gasket, verified it is wired to the load side of the GFCI outlet and replaced the GFCI outlet for good measure. Installed GFCI breaker for the pump. Replaced pool light switch with a WIFI switch and set it so the pool light comes on 30 minutes after sunset and turns off at midnight. The pool light was burnt out when I moved in so it looks great to see the water illuminated and moving around at night.

This morning's test results: FC 23, CC **0**!!!! Today I'm vacuuming again and brushing again and I'm going to do the OCLT tonight or tomorrow night!

 

[clambert1273]

Is the sample cloudy at least or clear?

 

[threeinchtabs]

Is the sample cloudy at least or clear?

It's cloudy, I tested some tap water and the tap water was perfectly clear. The test kit is new for this season so I'm confident the reagent is good.

 

[clambert1273]

If it's cloudy you have some just not enough for lowest 30 measurement. If it was me, I would add enough CYA to get me to 30 and after test. Even if you hit 40 that would be reasonable. So you have wiggle room.