Sand Filter Revitalizer returns immediately into pool

coldjpint

Member
Jun 3, 2020
5
Columbia, SC
First time poster here -
Started the pool season fine, SLAMmed the pool for several days, Have problems holding cholorine, but steady PH @ 7.5 and TA at 120. Was nice water (late March).
For some reason, our water is now cloudy - I've slammed w/ chlorine again, but immediately turns cloudy. White particles on surface etc.

I'm suspecting my filter isn't working properly - I poured in Sand Filter Revitalizer, and it immediately fed through the return - not even a delay.

I haven't pulled the filter apart yet, and just had new sand/aerator arm replaced 2 years ago...pool pros want $450+ to clean the filter, which is same as new one.

Thoughts? Advice much appreciated!
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
24,020
SouthWest Alabama
Welcome to TFP.

You're only supposed to pour the revitalizer (which we don't recommend at all) in the skimmer while backwashing. So, it appears that you either used it while the valve was on filter, or the valve is leaking water into the pool when on backwash.

Can you post a full set of test results and how you got them?
 

coldjpint

Member
Jun 3, 2020
5
Columbia, SC
You're right - not my finest moment :)

Results from Taylor K-1004 test kit:
pH - 7.5
TA - 130
FCL - < 1
TC 1-2

That's all I have.

Couple of notes:
1. I don't have sand in the pool and I recently had new sand and a broken arm replaced (about 2 years ago).
2. I use Liquid Pool Chlorine (Walmart) which is 10% Sodium Hypochlorite
3. When I pour in (about half gallon a day) - water reacts w/ chlorine and fiberglass pool get's rust colored.
4. Alleviate Rust by pouring in about 2 cups of pure Citrus Acid (granular)
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,799
SW Indiana
You need to add a phosphonic acid based metal treatment after using citric acid. It will help hold the iron in suspension and prevent it from being deposited on pool surfaces. It doesn’t last forever, so needs to be added periodically.

Opening your filter to check the sand isn’t a big deal if your plumbing has unions to allow it to be disconnected quickly.
 

coldjpint

Member
Jun 3, 2020
5
Columbia, SC
Thanks for the replies:

1. We have hard water, so while I don't know the exact concentration, generally we have higher concentrations of metals.
2. The citrus acid thing is a bit of the price I have to pay - had been successful for 6 years - just a balancing act. Cheaper alternative to the stain products from Leslie's pool.
3. Normally we use pucks in a chlorinator - first time using Clorox pucks and they aren't breaking down very well leading to some cloudiness.
4. Is there a Phosphonic acid product to look for - sorry to be dense...wish I could spend more time on it, but I can only work on this in spurts.
 

Donldson

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 12, 2009
4,421
NW Ohio
I don't think you understand. You aren't removing staining with the citric acid. You're depleting the chlorine you just added to the point where it no longer causes the metals to come out of solution. You have quite literally been spending money on chlorine and then spending money on citric acid which just gets destroyed by the chlorine.

Since fire is a rapid form of oxidation, you have almost literally been setting money on fire for the past six years.
 

Donldson

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 12, 2009
4,421
NW Ohio
I personally feel that learning that I'm throwing money away pointlessly would be quite helpful. Since discounting the practice would be an instant way to save money and the first step towards solving the problem, I believed telling you that was very necessary.
 
Last edited:

tim5055

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 11, 2014
10,909
Franklin, NC
Completely unnecessary and unhelpful. Please don't reply again. Thanks.
While you may think it's unnecessary, it's the truth. You have been adding chlorine and then what is basically adding chlorine neutralizer.

You seem to be contradicting yourself. Earlier you said you use liquid chlorine and now you say you use pucks in a chlorinator?????

Your test kit is not adequate as it don't provide all the tests nor the specificity you need.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here, so don't bother going there. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. Plus, the results of their "testing" is used to convince you that you need to buy things. Why do you think that testing is free?

But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™
 
  • Like
Reactions: coldjpint

crusemm

Gold Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Sep 1, 2011
342
North Texas
The people on this forum are the best and most helpful group of folks you will find on the internet, and specifically when it comes to pool care. @Donldson was merely pointing out the error you were making, in as forthright a manner as possible, in hopes that you would see the error and stop wasting your time and money. That being said, the TFP method requires that you allow us to help you help yourself. This is very much a DIY forum. I understand it can be frustrating, especially with summer here and everyone wants to get in the pool as quick as possible. So it sounds like you have a couple of problems that need to be addressed
1. Read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
2. Iron in your water - there are ways to deal with this, namely a phosphonic sequestrant as @JohnT advised
3. Source of that iron must be dealt with, if it is your fill water that can be addressed using poly-fill
4. Your test kit is inadequate, see Test Kits Compared- order an appropriate test kit ASAP so you can get control
5. as part of 3, I believe if you are using pucks long term, your CYA may be through the roof, and the cloudiness may be the beginnings of an algae bloom. Add 5 ppm Liquid Chlorine a day until you get your test kit.

Once you have accurate numbers on your pool, and we can help you get control of your pool again. This forum has helped people take pools that have sat untreated for years, that are black oozibng swamps more suitable for alligators and snakes than humans, to beautiful sparkling pools faster than you would believe. The key is reading/ listening, and following the advice that these people have generously donated their time to give.


All of that being said, if you aren't willing to take the appropriate steps, there is nothing anyone here can do to help you.
 

coldjpint

Member
Jun 3, 2020
5
Columbia, SC
Thanks for the Tips - here's what I have so far:
1. Order new Test kit - done.
2. Iron level source - fill water from hose would be likely source - have had lot's of rain lately, and I can't say how prior owners have filled the pool. Have heard that metals can "etch" into fiberglass pools and some have suggested emptying, acid wash, and refilling. Not sure I want to do that for a 12K gallon pool - vs installing a new one.
3. I'm assuming algae are feasting, so I'm emptying walmart of liquid chlorine until I get accurate measurements.
4. Is there a brand of phosphonic acid to buy or just whatever comes up on amazon?

Appreciate the help - will update when I have accurate numbers.

Thanks