Rx Clear?

[PatD25443]

So I just bought a new cell for my Rx Clear SWG system. The original cell was for a 20k pool, and the one I replaced it with was for 40k. I didn't realize when I made the switch that I would have to recalibrate I started getting all kinds of crazy readings on my salt level that I knew weren't right.

The bottom line is that I eventually figured out that my cell type was "C-15" -- I hope! -- and I manged to program that into the system. I'm now getting salt level readings that are higher than ideal, around 4000, but I think they're accurate based on testing I had done at the pool shop.

Bottom line: I'm not 100 percent certain that the cell type for a 40k rx clear is actually c-15 because there's nothing on the labeling on the product that tells me what the cell type is and the rx clear people don't answer the phone.

Can anyone help? And can anyone tell me why I can barely find rx clear on the web? It's all Haywood . . .

Thanks.

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

We do not trust pool store results AT ALL.. they are usually wrong, every once and awhile they get close... I would order a Taylor K-1766 Salt test to know for sure what your salt ppm is.. The SWG system is also a ballpark data point, if it is happy and creating chlorine leave it there...

On that note, how are you checking your other Recommended Levels

It is interesting they are using "C-15", hayward is usually "T-cell-15" cell RX clear is just a rebranded hayward unit...

 

[PatD25443]

Thanks. It seems to be “happy” enough. I do hear you on not trusting pool company readings. In this case, though, their reading was almost exactly what my system is now telling me after I finally figured out what cell to program it to. Before I did that the readings the system were giving me we’re just crazy. Like 9000 and an immediate shut off, which I knew couldn’t be right

I still have a problem though: very low FC levels. My total chlorine is in range and so are all the other chemical readings according to the test strips (yea I know I need to upgrade to a kit) but I struggle with FC. It’s been hot and sunny a lot though (typically 90 or above) and my pool is in direct sunlight for most of the day. I tried shocking it last night and got a good FC reading at first, but now 12 hours later I’m back to nothing. I’m assuming I didn’t shock it enough because the reading I got last night was only on the high end of normal (like 3-4) and after a shock it should be higher than that.

The pool always looks great and real clean, the water feels great, and I see very little evidence of any algae. I’m just not getting a FC reading. It’s frustrating.

Finally, on the Hayward thing. I figured Rx Clear was just a rebranding thing, but the control panel is slightly different and the instructions I saw on line for how to recalibrate didn’t quite apply either. So it took some frustrating trial and error.

 

[cowboycasey]

Well you came to the right place... Here is your help for the day

Order a test kit.. it is worth every penny and also get a speed stir, it will save your life.. You and I both need to know the exact levels in your pool so we can help you.. The kits we use are the only way that happens.. Test Kits Compared

we do not shock the pool, we SLAM Process

It really is easy and should not take that long to get a perfect looking pool..

Please fill out you signature so we know what you have.. Create Your Signature - Further Reading

what size pool do you have?

Go to your local lowes, HD, Atwoods, tractor supply Walmart or pool store if no where else (they are more expensive) and get liquid chlorine 10% or 12.5% today.. grab about 8 gallons to start..

once we know about your pool we can go from there, how does that sound...